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Full text of "The Canadas as they now are, comprehending a view of their climate, rivers, lakes, canals, government, laws, taxes, towns, trade, &c. ; with a description of the soil and advantages or disadvantages of every township in each province, derived from the reports of the inspectors made to the justices at quarter sessions, and from other authentic sources, assisted by local knowledge ; with a map, showing the position of each township"

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THE 


CANADAS 

AS  THEY  NOW  ARE. 

COMPREHENDING  A VIEW  OF  THEIR  CLIMATE,  RIVERS, 
LAKES,  CANALS,  GOVERNMENT,  LAWS,  TAXES, 
TOWNS,  TRADE,  &c. 

WITH  A 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SOIL  AND  ADVANTAGES 
OR  DISADVANTAGES  OF  EVERY  TOWN- 
SHIP  IN  EACH  PROVINCE : 


THE  REPORTS  OF  THE  INSPECTORS  MADE  TO  THE 
JUSTICES  AT  QUARTER-SESSIONS,  AND  FROM 
OTHER  AUTHENTIC  SOURCES, 

ASSISTED  BY  LOCAL  KNOWLEDGE. 


WITH  A MAP, 

SHOWING  THE  POSITION  OF  EACH  TOWNSHIP, 

A Point  of  the  utmost  Consequence  to  the  Settler  ; 

COMPILED  WITHOUT  REFERENCE  TO  THE  PARTICULAR  INTEREST 
OF  ANY  LAND  COMPANY  OR  ASSOCIATION. 

BY  A LATE  RESIDENT. 

/ '"f'  f - P f 

LONDON : 

JAMES  DUNCAN,  37,  PATERNOSTER  ROW; 

CROSS,  HOLBORN;  and  MANN,  CORNHILL. 


MDCCCXXXIII. 


LONDON: 

PRINTED  BY  WILLIAM  CLOWES, 
Stamford  Street. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


It  is,  perhaps,  incumbent  on  the  Author  or  Compiler  of 
a book  on  a subject  already  before  the  public  in  different 
shapes,  to  give  some  reasons  why  he  presumes  to  add  to 
the  number,  and,  by  a sort  of  tacit  compact  between  the 
parties,  it  is  generally  expected. 

In  compliance  with  such  reasonable  expectation,  the 
Compiler  of  the  following  sheets  will,  without  further 
circumlocution,  proceed  to  set  forth  some  of  the  reasons 
he  has  to  offer  in  his  excuse. 

In  the  first  place,  Colonel  Bouchett’s  work  on  Ca- 
nada is  too  expensive  to  come  within  the  reach  of  the 
great  mass  of  emigrants. 

In  the  next,  of  the  small  books  that  have  professed  to 
give  an  account  of  the  provinces  of  Canada,  some  are 
occupied  with  matter  only  partially  interesting,  and  re- 
lating to  some  particular  section  of  the  country.  Others 
are  calculated  rather  to  amuse,  by  their  lively  descrip- 
tions of  some  of  the  occurrences  of  a settler’s  life,  than  to 
afford  solid  and  comprehensive  information.  Some, 
again,  by  their  omissions,  and  allusions  to  old  accounts, 
long  since  inapplicable  to  the  present  state  of  things, 
give  internal  evidence  of  being  compiled  by  persons  not 

a 2 


IV 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


actually  acquainted  with  the  country  on  which  they 
write ; while  others,  though  containing  much  valuable 
information,  have,  by  repeating  the  same  information  in 
a somewhat  different  form,  together  with  dwelling  on  sub- 
jects of  no  real  importance,  managed  to  make  a thick  and 
expensive  book,  and,  at  the  same  time,  in  some  measure, 
mystify  that  part  which  is  truly  useful ; and  last,  though 
not  least,  most  of  them  are  from  the  pens  of  gentlemen 
having  connexion  with  the  Land  Companies,  and,  as  a 
natural  consequence,  have  been  influenced  by  that  con- 
nexion, to  give  a more  prominent  place  to  their  settle- 
ments than  they  may  deserve : not  that  it  is  intended  to 
deny  to  the  Canada  Land  Company  or  their  servants 
their  due  meed  of  praise — and  they  are  entitled  to  a con- 
siderable share-— but  if  a personal  friend,  with  200/.  or 
300/.  or  more,  were  to  ask  the  Author  if  he  would  ad- 
vise him  to  settle  at  Guelph  or  Goderich,  he  would 
reply,  ‘ Certainly  not  at  the  latter,  nor  at  the  former, 
unless  you  are  too  indolent  to  look  for  a more  eligible 
spot,  plenty  of  which  are  to  be  found  with  a little  trouble 
and  the  exercise  of  discrimination/ 

In  the  compilation  of  this  work,  the  Author  has  en- 
deavoured to  avoid  the  errors  of  his  forerunners ; and, 
whilst  it  has  been  his  study  not  to  omit  any  feature  of 
prominent  and  universal  interest,  he  has  sought,  with 
equal  solicitude,  to  adopt  a mode  of  arrangement  by 
which  the  information  contained  may  be  rendered  avail- 
able to  the  inquirer  of  any  degree  of  intelligence. 

As  there  are  many  persons  contemplating  emigration 
who  are  not  decided  whether  to  proceed  to  the  Cana- 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


V 


das,  or  the  United  States,  and  some  who,  although  they 
are  rather  inclined  to  go  to  the  Canadas,  yet  resolve  to 
go  by  the  way  of  New  York,  and  thus  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  judging  for  themselves,  he  thought  it  would  be 
acceptable  to  give  a short  sketch  of  the  city  and  state  of 
New  York,  and  some  other  matters  interesting  to  an 
emigrant,  together  with  the  route  from  New  York  to 
Upper  Canada. 

He  will  only  add,  that  he  hopes  the  matter-of-fact 
nature  of  the  subject,  added  to  the  conviction  of  the 
incomplete  and  erroneous  character  of  many  of  the  de- 
scriptions of  Canada,  will  plead  his  excuse  for  taking  up 
the  pen,  well  knowing  his  inability  to  clothe  any  other 
than  such  a statistical  subject  in  tolerable  language. 


f 


INTRODUCTION. 


That  a correct  knowledge  of  the  geographical 
position  and  formation  of  a country  is  of  the 
first  importance  to  the  inhabitants  of  that  coun- 
try, is  an  assertion,  that  few7  or  none  will  be 
found  to  dispute  ; but  this  knowledge,  except  to 
the  statesman  and  merchant,  is  of  little  conse- 
quence to  the  inhabitants  of  Europe,  compared 
to  the  vast  influence  which  a thorough  acquaint- 
ance with  the  face  of  the  country  exercises  over 
the  ultimate  prosperity  of  individuals  in  a region 
so  thinly  peopled  as  America,  where  the  situa- 
tion, or,  as  the  Americans  term  it,  the  locality  of 
the  land,  constitutes  the  greatest  part  of  its 
value. 

For  want  of  a tolerably  accurate  idea  of  the 
course  of  the  navigable  waters,  and  the  means  of 
reaching  a market,  a man  may  set  himself  down 
in  the  face  of  difficulties  which  he  may  not  dis- 
cover for  years  ; and  then  the  chances  are,  that 
his  life  will  not  last  long  enough  to  correct  his 
error,  and  he  must  content  himself  with  his  lot 


INTRODUCTION. 


viii 

in  the  best  manner  he  may : at  any  rate,,  his  past 
labour  is  lost,  or  nearly  so. 

This  matter  is  so  well  understood  and  appre- 
ciated in  the  United  States,  that  the  greatest 
attention  is  paid  to  mapping,  and  the  study  of 
maps.  The  rivers  and  canals  are  laid  down 
most  conspicuously,  with  all  the  canals  and  rail- 
roads that  are  only  projected ; and  even  situa- 
tions, where  facilities  present  themselves  for  their 
construction,  are  pointed  out.  Scarcely  any 
person  is  met  on  a journey  without  a map  of 
the  state  in  which  he  is  travelling;  and  the  cheap 
rate  at  which  they  are  got  up,  and  the  portabi- 
lity of  their  bindings,  speak  forcibly  of  the  uni- 
versal estimation  in  which  such  knowledge  is 
held. 

It  is  not  every  American  custom  which  is 
worth  copying,  but  this  one  is  founded  in  such 
good  sense,  and  has  so  evidently  arisen  from  the 
necessity  of  the  case,  that  it  would  be  unpardon- 
able not  to  follow  it. 

In  looking  over  the  best  maps  of  Canada,  the 
inexperienced  eye  is  bewildered  by  the  multi- 
plicity of  water-courses  over  the  face  of  the 
whole  country.  The  great  majority  of  these, 
however  valuable  they  may  be  for  irrigation 
and  for  milling  purposes,  are  not  at  present 
navigable,  though  many  are  capable  of  being 
made  so,  whenever  the  increased  settlement  will 


INTRODUCTION. 


IX 


warrant  the  expense.  It  has,  therefore,  been 
thought  best  to  leave  these  out  in  the  map  ac- 
companying the  present  sketch,  because  they 
draw  off  the  attention  from  the  main  streams, 
and,  besides,  they  are  mostly  alluded  to  in  the 
letter-press  account  of  the  advantages  of  each 
township,  and  also  because  all  who  have  land  to 
dispose  of,  whether  individuals  or  large  pro- 
prietors, have  maps  whereon  their  lands  are  de- 
scribed on  a larger  scale. 

Roads  are  comparatively  of  small  importance 
in  Canada,  and  do  not  engage  a large  share  of 
attention,  except  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
larger  towns  ; and,  for  obvious  reasons  ; any  one 
will  imagine  the  great  labour  in  making  a road 
through  a forest,  and,  when  made,  of  keeping  it 
in  tolerable  plight  to  bear  heavy  loads  in  the 
spring  and  autumn  ; besides,  the  frost  and  snow 
convert  the  worst  roads  into  the  best,  for  the 
rapid  and  easy  conveyance  of  heavy  loads  on 
sledges.  Most  of  the  streams,  though  not  navi- 
gable in  summer,  are  converted  into  excellent 
roads  in  the  winter ; and,  therefore,  all  the  heavy 
work  upon  a farm,  the  conveyance  of  produce  to 
market,  and  the  receiving  heavy  goods  from  the 
nearest  port,  is  reserved  to  that  time  ; and  hence 
the  necessity  for  good  roads  is  not  felt  so  greatly 
as  it  would  be  if  the  winters  did  not  so  conve- 
niently and  delightfully  supply  the  defect. 


X 


INTRODUCTION. 


It  would  be  quite  superfluous  to  reiterate 
arguments  to  an  American,  in  proof  of  the  ad- 
vantages of  being  seated  on  or  near  a navigable 
water;  nor  should  it  be  further  noticed  here, 
but  that  some  persons,  from  interested  motives, 
have  contended  that  the  small  settler  is  not  so 
much  interested  in  this  question,  because  he  can 
find  a purchaser  in  the  nearest  storekeeper.  It 
is  true  that  he  may  find  it  his  best  interest  to 
dispose  of  his  crop  to  him  ; but  as  the  latter  pur- 
chases with  the  sole  intent  of  sending  it  to  the 
great  ports,  the  cost  of  transport , he  it  more  or 
less , must  he  paid  out  of  the  produce,  and  nothing 
else.  To  this  consideration  is  to  be  superadded, 
that  the  cost  of  every  article  consumed  on  the 
farm  must  be  enhanced  from  the  same  cause. 

It  is  also  true  that  land  near  the  great  lakes 
and  rivers  is  not  to  be  obtained  except  at  a high 
price,  compared  with  the  inland  tracts,  (what 
need  of  greater  proof  of  the  value  of  water-com- 
munication ?)  and  that  fine  land  on  Lake  Huron 
or  Lake  Erie  may  be  had  at  a much  less  price 
than  land  near  Lake  Ontario ; but  the  real 
value  of  each  is  pretty  accurately  measured. 
The  small  expense  of  reaching  a market  com- 
pensates for  an  increased  outlay  in  the  land. 

But  as  it  is  quite  impossible  for  every  emi- 
grant (especially  those  of  small  means)  to  get 
land  near  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario, 


INTRODUCTION. 


XI 


it  becomes  consequently  a point  of  importance 
that  he  should  set  himself  down  as  near  them  as 
possible.  For  this  purpose  it  is  presumed  that 
the  map  will  afford  valuable  information,  exhi- 
biting in  the  plainest  manner  the  relative  situa- 
tion of  every  one  of  the  446  townships  into 
which  the  provinces  are  divided  ; and  as  it  is  the 
custom,  in  speaking  of  land,  to  say  that  it  is 
situate  in  such  a township  and  district  (not 
naming  the  county),  there  can  be  no  difficulty, 
by  the  alphabetical  arrangement  of  their  names, 
and  by  the  descriptions  of  each,  by  the  autho- 
rized surveyors  in  Part  II.,  in  at  once  discovering 
whether  the  description  given  of  any  township  by 
the  seller  is  generally  correct. 

There  are  three  modes  of  obtaining  land  in 
either  of  the  Canadas  : first  from  government,  to 
whom  application  may  be  made  at  Quebec  for 
land  in  the  Lower  Province ; and  at  the  Go- 
vernment Office  at  York,  for  land  in  the  Upper 
Province.  Mr.  Buchanan  of  Quebec  is,  how- 
ever, authorized  to  treat  for,  and  dispose  of  the 
crown  lands  in  both  provinces,  and  will  explain 
their  situation,  and  the  terms  on  which  they  will 
be  granted.  See  Appendix  No.  1. 

The  second  mode  of  purchasing  land  is  from 
the  Land  Companies.  The  British-American 
Land  Association  is  not  yet  prepared  for  busi- 
ness ; it  is  understood  that  they  will  confine 


XU 


INTRODUCTION. 


themselves  to  the  Lower  Province,  and  principally 
to  the  townships  in  the  district  of  St.  Francis. 

The  Canada  Land  Company  have  not  any 
land  in  the  Lower  Province ; they  have  some  in 
almost  all  the  townships  of  the  Upper  Province, 
besides  the  Huron  tract  of  1,100,000  acres,  and 
the  township  of  Guelph,  which  are  entirely  theirs. 
Mr.  Davidson  is  their  agent  at  Quebec,  and 
Messrs.  Hart,  Logan,  and  Co.  at  Montreal.  These 
persons  cannot,  however,  conclude  purchases, 
and  it  is  nearly  waste  of  time  to  inquire  of  them. 
In  the  summer,  Mr.  Corbet,  the  Company’s 
agent,  resides  at  Quebec,  and  is  well  qualified  to 
give  every  information  as  to  their  lands,  and  the 
best  mode  of  reaching  York,  where  their  office  is» 
and  where  only  bargains  can  be  concluded. 

The  third  mode  of  obtaining  land,  either  in  its 
wild  state,  or  partially  cleared  and  cultivated,  is 
by  purchase  from  individual  proprietors  ; at  the 
sheriffs  sales  ; or  at  the  annual  sales  of  land 
which  has  been  granted,  and  where  the  grantees 
have  failed  in  performing  the  conditions  of  the 
grant,  or  to  pay  the  assessment  of  one  penny 
per  annum  on  every  five  acres. 

There  is  some  risk  in  purchasing  land  in  the 
Lower  Province  from  individuals;  and  great 
caution  should  be  exercised,  part  only  being  sub- 
ject to  registry  ; but  in  the  Upper  Province  there 
is  little  danger  of  getting  a bad  title,  as  every 


INTRODUCTION. 


xiii 

part  is  subject  to  registry,  and  common  pru- 
dence is  sufficient  to  guard  against  that  risk. 

It  may  here  be  allowed  to  call  the  attention 
of  the  intended  settler  to  the  situation  of  the 
Canada  Company’s  large  tracts,  viz.,  Guelph 
and  the  Huron  tract. 

Individuals  of  small  means,  and  not  connected 
with  others  going  out  with  the  like  intentions, 
may  perhaps  not  do  amiss  by  taking  up  land  at 
Guelph,  which  is  within  thirty  miles  of  a port  on 
Lake  Ontario,  to  which  there  is  a road  called 
good  in  American  phrase,  but  which  will  not  be 
estimated  at  that  rate  by  an  Englishman,  until 
he  has  lost  all  recollection  of  those  which  he 
has  been  in  the  habit  of  calling  bad . The  land 
bears  an  excellent  character  ; and  the  Company 
have  erected  mills  and  stores,  which  are,  doubt- 
less, very  essential  establishments  to  be  within 
reasonable  distance  of  a settler. 

Goderich,  in  the  Huron  tract,  it  will  be  seen 
by  the  Map,  is  removed  from  Lake  Ontario  be- 
tween 400  and  500  miles  by  water-communica- 
tion. The  80  or  90  miles  of  road  from  Gode- 
rich to  Port  Talbot  on  Lake  Erie  would  reduce 
the  distance ; but  such  a route  is  not  to  be 
looked  to  for  the  advantageous  conveyance  of 
produce  to  a market,  in  such  a country  as  Ame- 
rica. There  is  surely  no  need  of  argument  to 
prove  that  a bushel  of  wheat  is  of  less  value,  by 

b 


XIV 


INTRODUCTION. 


something  very  considerable,  in  the  Huron 
tract,  than  it  is  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario,, 
and  at  the  same  time  that  any  article  of  British 
manufacture  or  West  Indian  produce  must  be 
dearer  in  the  first  than  in  the  last-named  situa- 
tion ; and;  therefore  till  land  situate  some  hun- 
dreds of  miles  nearer  the  great  markets  of  con- 
sumption and  supply  has  become  more  scarce 
than  it  at  present  is,  or  is  likely  to  be  for  many 
years  to  come;  it  certainly  appears  very  question  - 
able  policy  for  any  individual  to  fix  himself  at  so 
remote  a distance.  But  if  these  points  deserve 
the  attention  of  persons  with  scanty  means;  still 
more  do  they  press  themselves  on  those  who  are 
possessed  of  some  capital;  and  whose  lives  have 
been  spent  in  a well-peopled  land,  and  in  the 
interchange  of  the  charities  and  civilities  of  life, 
the  worth  of  which  are  not  fully  discovered  till 
their  loss  is  felt.  By  a little  inquiry  and  perse- 
verance, plenty  of  land  may  be  found  near  the 
shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario, 
either  wild,  or  partially  cleared,  and  possessing 
all  the  advantages  of  Guelph  or  the  Huron 
tract,  besides  being  within  a reasonable  distance 
of  the  large  towns  and  markets,  and  wearing  alto- 
gether an  aspect  not  so  repulsive  to  an  old  coun- 
try man  (as  the  Europeans  are  called)  as  the 
interminable  wilds  of  Guelph  or  Lake  Huron. 

The  Lower  Province,  although  possessing  the 


INTRODUCTION. 


XV 


advantage  over  the  Upper,  in  respect  to  the 
markets  for  grain  and  other  exportable  produce, 
including  beef  and  pork,  and  also  possessing  the 
large  cities  of  Montreal  and  Quebec,  at  which 
many  of  the  smaller  productions  of  a farm  will 
bring  a good  price,  yet,  from  the  length  and 
severity  of  the  winters,  is  undoubtedly  calculated 
rather  for  the  Scotch  and  north  of  England 
farmer,  than  for  any  other  class  of  agricul- 
turists. 

The  descriptions  of  the  townships  in  the  Lower 
Province  are  taken  chiefly  from  the  reports  of 
their  qualities,  &c.,  by  Lieutenant-Colonel  Bou- 
chett,  the  surveyor-general. 

The  descriptions  of  the  townships  in  the  Upper 
Province  are  mostly  taken  from  the  reports 
made  by  the  deputy  surveyors  and  inspectors 
to  the  justices  at  quarter-sessions  and  to  the 
Provincial  Government,  assisted  by  the  general 
knowledge  gained  by  the  Author  during  two 
years'  residence. (1830  and  1831),  and  travelling 
on  the  great  line  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Lakes ; and  he  will  esteem  himself  happy  if  his 
labour  should  be  found  serviceable  in  rendering 
this  interesting  country,  both  to  the  agriculturist 
and  trader,  better  known,  and  its  advantages 
properly  appreciated. 

London , January , 1833. 


PART  I. 


GENERAL  VIEW. 


Preparations  for  the  Voyage,  fyc.—New  York  and 
the  principal  Towns  in  that  State-Route  to 
Upper  Canada. 

In  whatever  part  of  the  United  Kingdom  the  in- 
tended Emigrant  is  situated,  he  will  have  no  diffi- 
culty in  finding  a port  from  whence  to  embark  for 
the  Western  Continent.  London,  Liverpool,  Bristol, 
Hull,  Leith,  and  Belfast  are,  of  course,  the  principal, 
but  from  most  of  the  minor  ports  some  vessels  take 
their  departure  for  Quebec  and  Montreal,  between 
the  20th  of  March  and  the  end  of  September.  Ships 
for  New  York  are  sailing  all  the  year. 

In  seeking  for  a ship,  persons  are  advised  to  trust 
more  to  their  own  discrimination  than  to  any  agent, 
who,  knowing  he  is  not  likely  again  to  see  the  face  of 
his  employer,  has  no  care  beyond  that  of  getting  his 
fee.  The  ship  should  be  visited,  and  her  various  ac- 
commodations inquired  into  ; as  the  height  she  has 
between  decks ; what  number  of  berths  or  sleeping- 
places  there  are,  and  how  many  are  to  occupy  each  ; 

B 


2 


THE  VOYAGE. 


the  number  and  situation  of  the  water-closets ; the 
accommodations  for  cooking,  and  any  other  points 
which  may  suggest  themselves.  If  you  are  taking 
your  wives  and  children  you  should  be  more  parti- 
cular than  otherwise  you  need  be.  Some  idea  may 
formed  whether  the  number  of  passengers  named  is 
too  much,  and  preference  should  be  given  to  the 
ship  carrying  the  least  number*. 

Persons  whose  means  enable  them  to  pay  for  a 
cabin  passage  should  visit  the  ship,  and  inspect  the 
accommodations,  and  also  ascertain  the  quantity  of 
live-stock  they  will  take,  and  what  proportion  it 
bears  to  the  number  of  passengers,  as  cabin-pas- 
sengers are  generally  found  by  the  captain  ; also,  if 
any,  and  what  bedding  is  provided  ; what  wine  and 
liquors  are  allowed,  and  other  inferior  matters;  and, 
on  paying  the  passage-money,  all  parties  should 
take  a receipt,  expressing  as  fully  as  possible  all  the 
items  agreed  upon,  and  also  that  no  charge  is  to  be 
made  for  luggage. 

There  are  none  but  British  ships  sail  for  Canada, 
but  for  New  York  there  are  both  British  and  Ame- 
rican. The  accommodations  on  board  the  latter  are 
certainly  very  excellent,  but  the  charge  is  somewhat 
higher  than  the  British  ; and  although  the  splendid 
appearance  of  the  cabins,  when  in  port , is  very  im- 
posing to  a landsman,  yet  those  who  have  sailed  in 

* See  the  u Information  published  hy  the  Commissioners  for 
Emigration,”  price  2d.  Knight,  Pall-Mall  East,  and  other 
Booksellers. 


THE  VOYAGE. 


3 


both  generally  prefer  the  arrangement  of  the  cabins 
of  a British  ship  as  by  far  the  most  comfortable. 

A poop,  or  quarter-deck,  is  also,  for  many  reasons, 
very  desirable,  especially  in  a ship  with  a large  num- 
ber of  passengers,  and  none  of  the  American  ships 
have  quarter-decks.  Some  of  the  British  vessels 
have  an  intermediate  cabin  separated  from  the 
steerage,  by  which  persons  of  respectability,  though 
of  small  means,  may  avoid  the  indiscriminate  mix- 
ture in  the  steerage  of  the  American  ships.  There 
are  also  other  points  in  which  there  is  a difference, 
and  though  they  would  sound  trivial  on  shore,  yet 
they  assume  a different  character  at  sea.  Upon  the 
whole  there  is  no  hesitation  in  declaring  that  an 
Englishman  will  find  himself  more  at  home  in  a 
British  than  in  an  American  ship.  The  price  is  en- 
tirely an  affair  of  arrangement,  as  less  is  frequently 
taken  than  is  asked,  and  less  at  some  seasons  than 
at  others. 

Those  who  decide  upon  providing  their  own  pro- 
visions (and  perhaps  nine  out  of  ten  will  be  more 
satisfied  with  it  5 besides,  the  employment  which  the 
cooking  and  preparing  it  affords  is  likely  to  be 
pleasant  rather  than  otherwise,  by  keeping  the  mind, 
in  some  measure,  engaged)  may  calculate  that  the 
voyage  to  New  York  will  be  performed  in  from 
twenty-five  to  fifty  days,  so  that  provisions  for  forty 
days  will,  in  all  reasonable  probability,  last  them  the 
voyage.  Few  persons  will  consume  more  than  a 
pound  of  biscuits  per  day.  Flour  and  oatmeal 

b 2 


4 


THE  VOYAGE. 


should  not  be  forgotten,  if  there  are  children  espe- 
cially. Potatoes  are  a valuable  article  in  a sea- 
voyage  ; so  are  apples,  onions,  and  pickles.  Beef 
and  pork  may  be  varied  with  some  bacon  and  a few 
herrings  : the  two  last  may  be  packed  in  pea-chaff, 
to  absorb  the  moisture.  Eggs  may  be  securely 
packed  in  salt  or  bran,  and  are  excellent  food  either 
by  themselves  or  with  bacon  : some  rice,  with  tea, 
sugar,  butter,  and  other  small  articles,  will  make  up 
all  that  is  requisite  for  the  sea-store.  One  or  more 
large  cakes,  with  carraway-seeds,  &c.,  if  made  im- 
mediately before  sailing,  would  keep  moist  and  good 
a long  time,  and  would  be  most  acceptable  to  chil- 
dren. Spirits  may,  perhaps,  be  purchased  of  the 
captain  cheaper  than  on  shore,  because  he  has  no 
duty  to  pay  on  his  stores,  but  inquiry  must  be  made 
as  to  that  point.  There  will  likewise  be  required  a 
tea-kettle  and  one  or  two  saucepans,  and  the  neces- 
sary crockery,  &e. ; also  a large  stone-bottle  or  small 
keg,  to  hold  the  daily  allowance  of  water. 

A box,  divided  into  compartments,  will  be  found 
very  serviceable  in  keeping  articles  as  separate  as 
possible,  and  preventing  breakage.  Cord,  to  lash 
the  boxes  to  some  part  of  the  vessel,  must  not  be 
forgotten : for  the  want  of  which  great  damage  is 
sometimes  done  at  sea  to  crockery,  &c.  The  meat 
should  not  be  in  large  pieces,  and  perhaps  it  would 
be  best  to  divide  it  into  two  tubs,  that  if  any  pieces 
are  not  good  or  require  using  they  may  be  separated 
from  the  others.  As  to  bedding,  it  is  as  well  to 


THE  VOYAGE. 


5 


remark  that  good  beds  and  blankets  will  stand  a 
good  chance  of  being1  spoiled,  and  therefore  anything 
is  good  enough  for  the  voyage  which  will  answer  the 
purpose.  The  same  may  be  said  of  clothing,  all  of 
which,  except  that  intended  to  be  used  on  the  pas- 
sage, should  be  well  packed  in  separate  boxes,  not 
to  be  opened,  as  the  sea  air  is  best  excluded. 

Having  thus  prepared  the  necessaries  for  use 
during  the  voyage,  the  next  matter  is  to  prepare 
yourself ; and,  if  you  have  a desire  to  avoid  sea-sick- 
ness, the  experience  of  one  who  has  tried  its  efficacy 
is  subjoined.  A few  days  previous  to  embarkation, 
by  two  or  more  doses  of  medicine,  at  proper  inter- 
vals, make  sure  of  a clear  stomach,  which  is  of  the 
greatest  importance.  Be  provided  with  some  medi- 
cine, to  remedy  any  confinement  or  relaxation  which 
may  occur  during  the  voyage,  and  do  not  neglect  to 
use  them  should  there  be  occasion.  Be  as  much 
upon  deck  as  you  can  when  the  weather  will  permit, 
and  be  frequently  on  the  move  : accommodate  your- 
self to  the  motion  of  the  ship,  laying  hold  of  the 
ropes,  &c.,  as  you  would  in  a swing  ; and  by  no  means 
resist  the  motion,  as  some  will  attempt  to  do,  and 
always  to  their  cost.  Cheerfulness  and  gaiety,  with 
cleanliness  added  to  the  above,  will  very  likely  se- 
cure you  from  illness,  but  will  be  quite  sure  to  miti- 
gate any  that  may  arise ; and,  after  all,  a voyage 
across  the  Atlantic  is  not  so  formidable  an  affair  as 
some  imagine  it  to  be — if  the  vessel  be  not  too  much 
crowded. 


6 


NEW  YORK. 


At  New  York  a tax  of  one  dollar  is  levied  on  each 
emigrant ; and  all  articles,  except  clothing,  are  sub- 
ject  to  heavy  duties. 

At  Quebec  there  is  a tax  of  one  dollar  on  every 
adult  emigrant,  and  half  a dollar  on  children  from 
seven  to  fourteen,  but  no  duty  on  any  article  for  use 
or  consumption,  although  it  is  not  advisable  to  take 
any  heavy  or  cumbrous  goods,  especially  if  the  in- 
tention is  not  fixed  to  a particular  spot,  or  if  the 
emigrant  intends  to  proceed  to  the  upper  province. 

The  voyage  to  Quebec  is  generally  rather  longer 
than  to  New  York,  and  prudence  requires  a propor- 
tional augmentation  to  the  sea-store : perhaps  provi- ~ 
sions  for  sixty  days  will  not  be  required  by  nineteen 
ships  out  of  twenty,  yet  it  is  a serious  affair  to  be 
short  of  provisions  at  sea,  and  the  safest  way  is  to 
provide  for  that  time  or  near  it. 

The  shortest  passages  are  usually  made  to  Ame- 
rica in  the  spring,  and  from  thence  to  Europe  in 
the  fall. 


ARRIVAL  AT  NEW  YORK. 

On  arriving  at  New  York,  the  first  affair  to  be  at- 
tended to  is  the  providing  a residence.  The  custom 
of  living  at  lodging  and  boarding  houses  is  much 
more  general  than  anywhere  in  England,  so  that 
little  difficulty  is  experienced  in  finding  plenty, 
whose  terms  are  from  two  to  four  dollars  per  week  ; 


NEW  YORK. 


7 


and  as  no  notice  of  quitting  is  ever  expected  more 
than  a day  or  so,  if  convenient,  it  is  not  so  necessary 
to  be  particular  at  first.  Very  genteel  lodgings, 
with  good  living,  maybe  obtained  for  three  or  three 
dollars  and  a half,  which  will  include  all  that  is  re- 
quired, without  any  extra  charge. 

Persons  with  families  will  have  more  trouble  to 
find  accommodation.  The  most  eligible  mode  of 
procedure  for  them  will  be  to  seek  in  the  upper  part 
of  the  town  for  apartments ; and  as  the  sale  of  pro- 
visions is  confined  to  the  markets,  which  are  pretty 
well  scattered  about,  no  time  will  be  lost  in  pro- 
viding for  a family. 

One  of  the  first  things  which  will  require  the  at- 
tention of  the  newly-arrived  is  the  circulating  me- 
dium : the  dollar  and  its  fractional  parts  constitute 
almost  the  entire  circulation  of  the  United  States. 

They  have  a coinage  of  gold  and  silver,  but  of  the 
former  scarce  any  are  seen  in  circulation,  and  the 
latter  consists  of  half-dollars,  orfifty-cent  pieces,  ten- 
cent  pieces,  and  five-cent  pieces.  But  the  great  bulk 
of  the  specie  in  use  is  the  Spanish  dollar,  and  its 
subdivisions.  The  only  copper  coin  is  the  cent, 
which  is  the  TJirth  part  of  a dollar,  and  is  also  called 
a penny,  but  it  is  scarcely  equal  to  our  halfpenny. 
The  sixteenth  part  of  the  dollar  is  called  six-pence ; 
the  eighth  part  a shilling;  the  fourth  part  two  shil- 
lings ; the  half  four  shillings  ; and  the  dollar  eight 
shillings  ; so  that  the  whole  of  the  money  in  use  is 
but  of  half  the  value  of  pieces  of  corresponding 


8 


CIRCULATING  MEDIUM. 


names  in  England.  And  it  is  very  necessary  to  at- 
tend to  this  fact,  not  only  when  in  America,  but  in 
all  communications  on  the  subject  of  wages,  &c., 
and  also  the  information  contained  in  books,  for  if 
the  price  of  labour  is  named  in  New  York  currency, 
and  the  price  of  provisions  in  English  currency, 
which  is  sometimes  the  case,  the  truth  is  most  shock- 
ingly distorted,  and  the  state  of  things  made  to  ap- 
pear much  more  in  favour  of  the  United  States  than 
the  reality  warrants. 

It  is  here  also  to  be  remarked  that  although  the 
dollar  is  the  universal  coin  of  the  whole  United 
States,  and  consequently  it,  with  its  divisions,  is  of 
the  same  real  value  every  where,  yet  the  several  parts 
are  called  by  various  names  in  different  States. 
Boston  and  Philadelphia  differ  from  each  other,  and 
both  from  New  York,  in  the  names  and  apparent 
value  of  the  parts  of  the  dollar.  All  accounts  are 
kept  in  dollars  and  cents. 

The  emigrant,  if  he  is  an  artisan,  should  lose  no 
time  in  getting  employment,  but  is  advised  on  no 
account  to  engage  for  an  extended  time,  but  rather 
take  low  wages  at  first:  for  by  this  means  he  is  likely 
to  gain  information  which  may  be  of  use  in  directing 
his  future  steps. 

Considerable  caution  is  requisite  in  attending  to 
accounts  of  the  demand  for  labourers  or  mechanics 
in  this  or  that  place,  for  in  no  one  feature  do  the 
Americans  differ  from  the  English  more  than  in  the 
universal  desire  for  changing  about ; which  urges 


PROCURING  EMPLOYMENT. 


9 


them  to  be  ever  on  the  look  out  for  new  opportuni- 
ties for  enterprise,  and  which  most  frequently  prove 
of  little  or  no  advantage  to  the  individual,  however 
the  community  may  eventually  benefit  by  this  spirit. 

If  the  emigrant  is  an  agricultural  labourer,  he 
should  lose  no  time  in  inquiring  into  the  demand 
for  labour.  English  farming  men  will  find  them- 
selves at  first  quite  unable  to  cope  with  the  Ameri- 
can labourer  in  clearing  new  land,  and  operations  on 
new  farms  ; and  till  they  have  had  some  experience, 
perhaps  it  would  be  best  to  get  work,  if  possible, 
in  some  of  the  older  states. 

The  New  England  States,  which  lie  north  of  New 
York,  were  the  first  settled,  and  are  in  a higher  state 
of  cultivation  than  the  other  States.  The  population 
is  also  greater,  but  for  many  years  there  has  been 
very  extensive  emigration  from  these  States  to  the 
western  States  on  the  Mississippi,  and  more  recently 
to  the  Michegan  territory;  added  to  which  there  are 
many  manufactories  established  there,  which  thin 
the  agricultural  labourers  by  the  numbers  employed 
therein.  Taking  all  these  things  into  consideration, 
it  would,  perhaps,  be  prudent  to  endeavour  to  get 
work  in  those  States,  at  least,  for  a time,  and  it  may 
also  be  observed  that  the  habits  of  the  people,  and 
their  mode  of  living,  do  not  differ  in  so  great  a de- 
gree from  the  English  as  in  the  more  remote  States. 

Persons  who  carry  money  with  them  of  more  or 
less  amount,  with  the  intention  of  purchasing  land, 
must  not  allow  their  vigilance  to  slumber.  There 

b 5 


10 


PURCHASING  LAN0. 


will  be  no  want  of  tempting  bargains  by  the  hundred? 
but  not  a little  circumspection  will  be  required  to 
secure  one  good  one. 

Good  land  near  New  York,  or  any  of  the  prin- 
cipal towns,  brings  a high  price,  and  generally  any 
land  in  this  state  offered  at  a low  price  may  be  sus- 
pected, and  must  be  personally  examined,  and  the 
title  investigated  by  some  attorney  of  known  respect- 
ability, The  same  observation  applies  to  most  of  the 
older  States. 

It  is  quite  impossible  to  glance  at  the  numerous 
ways  in  which  the  sovereigns  and  dollars  of  John 
Bull  may  take  flight  if  he  does  not  keep  a sharp 
look  out ; nor  need  he,  in  a general  way,  look  for 
any  commiseration  from  cousin  Jonathan,  who  will 
only  laugh  at  his  misfortune,  he  not  being  quite  able 
to  distinguish  the  difference  between  an  honourable 
confidence  and  a want  of  sense,  to  which  latter  he 
attributes  the  comparative  ease  with  which  an 
Englishman  is  deceived. 

As  general  advice,  it  is  recommended  not  to  be 
in  haste.  To  acquire  a general  knowledge  of  the 
face  of  the  country,  with  the  navigable  rivers,  and 
the  means  of  reaching  a market,  by  studying  the 
maps  of  each  State,  to  which  the  attention  is  directed. 
Always  to  look  at  the  land  before  purchase,  and 
then  to  have  the  title  well  investigated,  for  the 
chances  of  a bad  one  are  much  greater  than  they 
are  in  England,  where,  from  the  great  value  of  land, 
more  circumspection  is  exercised.  In  conclusion,  it 


CAUTION  IN  TRADE.  11 

may  be  remarked  that  a stranger  is  scarcely  likely  to 
meet  with  a real  bargain  of  land  at  auction. 

Persons  emigrating  to  the  United  States  with  the 
intention  of  employing  more  or  less  cash  in  trade, 
will  have  need  of  all  their  care,  and  should  not  en- 
gage in  any  pursuit  till  they  have,  in  some  measure, 
made  themselves  acquainted  with  the  habits  and 
methods  of  the  people  they  have  arrived  amongst. 
In  accomplishing  this  they  will  encounter  some  con* 
siderable  difficulty,  for  the  Americans,  although  they 
are  extremely  inquisitive  into  all  the  concerns  of  a 
stranger,  are  not  at  all  communicative  as  to  any 
matter  that  really  concerns  themselves.  It  is,  per- 
haps, almost  needless  to  remark,  that  the  tempting 
offers  in  the  newspapers,  and  the  numerous  agency 
offices,  are  to  be  avoided,  and  that  it  is  ever  to  be 
kept  in  remembrance  that  in  New  York  are  large 
numbers  of  persons  who  have  been  compelled  to 
quit  England  for  frauds  similar  to  those  which  they 
still  continue  to  practise. 

If  the  emigrant  arrives  in  the  spring,  he  will  be 
captivated  with  the  bustle  on  the  quays,  at  the  public 
sales,,  and  in  the  streets  of  business,  which  wear  an 
animating  and  thriving  aspect ; but  all  this  does  not 
determine  whether  the  business  which  is  the  occa- 
sion of  these  enlivening  appearances  is  productive 
of  substantial  profit. 

The  following  facts  are  submitted,  and  the  in- 
tended emigrant  is  left  to  draw  his  own  inference. 
Nearly  the  whole  circulation  of  the  United  States 


12 


FALSE  CAPITAL. 


consists  of  notes  of  one  dollar  and  upwards.  These 
notes  are  issued  by  private  banking  companies,  of 
whom  there  are  upwards  of  seventy  in  the  State  of 
New  York  alone,  whose  notes  are  at  par  or  a trifling 
discount,  besides  the  notes  of  some  broken  banks 
which  circulate  at  the  value  their  estates  are  sup- 
posed to  bear  to  their  debts,  that  is,  from  20  to  90 
per  cent,  discount.  Seventeen  of  these  seventy 
banks  are  in  the  city  of  New  York,  and  their  united 
capital  is  about  18,000,000  of  dollars,  or  3,700,0002. 
sterling,  while  by  the  single  means  of  the  custom- 
house bonds  (for  the  duties  are  not  paid  in  cash,  but 
the  goods  are  released  on  the  signature  of  a bond 
payable  at  three  and  six  months)  there  has  been  for 
many  years  a floating,  fictitious  capital,  calculated 
at  fifteen  millions  of  dollars. 

It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  such  extensive  crea- 
tion of  false  capital  and  consequent  speculation  in 
one  class  of  the  community  is  not  followed  by  a 
corresponding  system  in  all  other  classes,  and  as  the 
time  has  nearly  arrived  when  the  high  duties  must 
be  reduced,  because  they  will  not  be  wanted  for  the 
purposes  of  the  States,  and  also  to  satisfy  the  cla- 
mours of  the  southern  and  western  states,  who  have 
been  greatly  oppressed  by  them,  the  bonds  will  then 
arrive  at  maturity  without  the  importer  possessing 
the  means  of  keeping  up  his  capital  by  new  importa- 
tions ; he  consequently  must  contract  his  business, 
and  the  mercantile  community  must  be  in  a fearfully 
precarious  state  till  the  whole  of  this  false  capital  is 


EXTENSIVE  CREDIT. 


13 


redeemed.  Nor  is  it  attempted  to  be  denied  that 
any  other  than  a gradual  reduction  of  the  duties  will 
be  followed  by  extensive  ruin  and  embarrassment, 
particularly  to  all  manufacturing  concerns  which  the 
high  protecting  duties  alone  enable  to  compete  suc- 
cessfully with  British  productions.  But  the  difficulty 
will  be  to  bring  about  this  gradual  process,  many  of 
the  states  being  thoroughly  convinced  that  they  have 
been  made  the  dupes  of  the  present  system,  and 
will  insist  on  immediate  reduction. 

Rents,  in  what  are  called  good,  stands  for  business , 
are  high  at  New  York,  and  the  city  rates  are  by  no 
means  inconsiderable. 

Business  to  any  extent  is  not  to  be  carried  on  with- 
out giving  credit,  except  through  the  auctioneers, 
who  require  2 J per  cent,  for  guarantee,  and  will  then 
find  the  cash  less  the  interest  on  the  amount  at 
6 per  cent,  for  four  or  six  months,  according  to  the 
usual  credit  on  the  goods,  and  the  expenses  of  sale. 
The  law  abolishing  imprisonment  for  debt  in  the 
State  of  New  York  went  into  operation  on  the  1st  of 
March,  1832,  previous  to  which  time  it  existed  to  a 
greater  extent  than  in  England.  It  is  not  here 
necessary  to  inquire  if  such  law  is  founded  on  good 
or  bad  policy  ; it  is  sufficient  to  remark  that,  such 
being  the  law,  it  becomes  the  more  imperative  on 
those  possessed  of  property  to  know  well  the  persons 
whom  they  trust,  and,  consequently,  the  transactions 
of  a stranger,  whether  he  seeks  to  advance  his  interest 


14 


PRINCIPAL  TOWNS  OF  TRADE. 


by  giving  or  receiving  credit,  must  be  considered 
embarrassed  by  such  law. 

These  observations  are  offered  as  data  from  which 
every  one  must  draw  the  same  conclusion — viz,,  that 
the  state  of  affairs  in  the  United  States  is  some  way 
off  from  being  healthy,  and  that  there  are  some  diffi- 
culties to  be  encountered  which  many  perhaps  have 
not  thought  of  before,  and  which  will  show  that 
there  exists  a great  necessity  for  the  exercise  of  cau- 
tion in  embarking  property  either  in  trade  or  agri- 
culture. 

The  principal  towns  of  trade  in  the  State  of  New 
York,  besides  the  city  of  that  name,  are  Hudson,  Al- 
bany, and  Troy,  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  which 
the  Americans  usually  call  the  North  River  ; Utica, 
Rochester,  and  Buffalo,  on  the  banks  of  the  canal 
which  connects  Lake  Erie  with  the  Hudson  at  Albany. 
All  these  towns  are  advantageously  situate  for  busi- 
ness, which  is  carried  on  to  a considerable  extent  in 
each.  Besides  these,  there  are  numerous  small  towns 
on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  and  of  the  Erie  canal, 
nearly  all  of  a subsequent  date  to  the  canal  itself,  and 
which  are  rising  progressively  with  the  increasing 
cultivation  and  population  of  the  country  traversed  by 
the  canal,  and  to  the  westward  of  it,  the  produce  of 
which  countries  must  reach  a seaport  either  through 
this  canal  and  the  Hudson  to  New  York,  or,  through 
the  Welland  canal  (in  Canada),  Lake  Ontario,  and 
the  St.  Lawrence,  to  Montreal  or  Quebec. 


EXPENSE  OF  TRAVELLING. 


15 


The  great  elevation  of  Lake  Erie  above  the  Hud- 
son at  Albany,  where  the  Erie  canal  terminates,  fur- 
nishes the  means  of  obtaining  abundance  of  power 
along  its  line  for  mill-seats. 

The  navigation  of  the  canal  is  usually  suspended 
by  the  frost  four  months  at  least,  and  of  course  much 
interruption  is  occasioned  to  the  mills. 

The  emigrant  will  find  no  difficulty  in  procuring 
conveyance  from  New  York  to  all  the  principal  sea- 
ports and  towns  in  the  Union,  either  in  sloops  and 
steam-boats  to  the  nearer,  and  in  ships  to  the  more 
distant  parts,  at  very  moderate  charges,  if  he  drives 
a good  bargain.  Philadelphia  is  95  miles,  and  the 
journey  is  performed  partly  by  water  and  partly  by  land 
—fare  three  dollars  ; to  Boston,  244  miles,  by  steam- 
boat or  sloop — fare  three  to  eight  dollars  ; Hudson, 
157  miles,  Albany,  160  miles,  and  Troy,  166  miles, 
may  be  reached  by  steam-boat,  tow-boat,  or  sloop — - 
fare,  by  the  first,  two  dollars,  and  by  the  two  last 
much  less.  Sometimes  it  is  the  custom  to  include 
the  board  of  the  passengers  in  the  fare,  and  at  other 
times  it  is  not,  which  depends  upon  the  opposition 
on  the  different  rivers  at  the  time.  If  the  emigrant 
wishes  to  proceed  westward,  he  will  find,  at  Albany, 
plenty  of  canal  boats,  called  line  boats , which  carry 
passengers  as  well  as  goods  ; they  travel  at  the  rate 
of  three  miles  an  hour,  and,  by  driving  a close  bar- 
gain,  will  take  you  for  two  cents  per  mile,  including 
three  meals  a day.  At  night  beds  are  provided,  and 
if  the  boats  are  not  too  much  crowded,  the  journey- 
ing by  them  is  very  tolerable. 


16 


UTICA ROCHESTER. 


If  better  accommodation  is  desired,  the  coach 
must  be  taken  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  15 
miles — fare  half  a dollar.  From  thence  are  passage- 
boats,  which  carry  no  goods,  and  are  fitted  up  in  very 
superior  style  ; they  go  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an 
hour,  and  charge  four  cents  per  mile,  including 
board  of  an  excellent  description  furnished  in  abun- 
dance. 

Utica  is  96  miles  from  Albany. 

This  is  a large  trading  town  on  the  banks  of  the 
canal,  seated  in  a very  fruitful  district,  but  flat,  and 
unfavourable  to  health  from  the  exhalations  which 
arise  from  the  shallow  lakes,  which  are  thickly  inter- 
spersed in  this  part  of  the  State  of  New  York.  Ro- 
chester is  250  miles  from  Albany.  This  city  enjoys 
extensive  water  privileges,  as  the  phrase  is,  from  the 
Genesee  river,  which  here  falls  a considerable  height, 
and  affords  power  to  numerous  flour-mills,  and  other 
establishments.  By  the  river  it  has  a communication 
with  Lake  Ontario,  and  schooners  may  be  found  here 
for  York,  Kingston,  and  the  other  towns  in  Upper 
Canada.  The  population  of  Rochester  is  about 
] 5,000,  but  it  has  lately  been  considered  that  its 
advance  has  been  far  too  rapid  for  the  soundness  of 
its  prosperity,  and  the  failures  have  been  numerous 
and  heavy.  Between  the  two  last-named  places  is 
Salina,  at  which  are  salt-works,  but  the  quality  of 
the  salt  is  greatly  inferior  to  English  salt  for  most 
purposes,  and  nothing  but  the  high  duty  on  foreign 
salt  enables  these  works  to  flourish,  notwithstanding 


BUFFALO. 


17 


the  great  expense  of  transport  from  New  York, 
which,  of  course,  is  a premium  in  their  favour.  At 
Lockport  there  is  a fall  of  40  feet  by  five  locks, 
which  gives  a great  power  applicable  to  mill  work. 

Buffalo  is  at  the  entrance  of  the  canal  from  Lake 
Erie,  and  is  a very  flourishing  town.  Here  the 
schooners  which  navigate  the  lake  unload  the  pro- 
duce of  the  southern  shores,  and  parts  adjacent,  to  be 
conveyed  to  New  York  by  the  canal,  and  take  in 
their  return  cargoes  of  goods  for  the  supply  of  the 
country.  The  trade  of  the  place  is  very  considerable, 
and  many  mechanical  operations  are  carried  on. 
Whole  length  of  canal,  361  miles. 

Steam-boats  start  from  hence  for  Detroit,  and  the 
route  just  described  is  the  one  to  be  taken  by  those 
who  may  land  at  New  York,  and  decide  upon  pro- 
ceeding to  the  Huron  Tract,  or  any  other  part  of 
Upper  Canada. 

For  the  route  from  New  York  to  Lower  Canada, 
see  route  from  Montreal  to  New  York,  page  46. 

Perhaps,  if  the  country  which  has  been  noticed, 
together  with  the  whole  of  the  State  of  New  York, 
was  described  as  the  most  eligible  for  English  set- 
tlers, it  might  not  be  far  from  the  truth.  The  climate 
is,  for  the  most  part,  good,  the  unhealthy  portion 
principally  occurring  on  two  levels  of  upwards  of 
60  miles  each,  where  the  canal  is  conducted  through 
a succession  of  marshy  lakes  between  Utica  and 
Rochester. 

It  is  not,  however,  intended  to  say  that  there  are 


IB 


WESTERN  STATES. 


not  other  parts  where  the  emigrant  might  fix  himself 
to  equal  advantage,  but  this  State,  on  the  whole , is 
preferable.  Next  to  this,  stand  the  States  of  Con- 
necticut, Massachusets,  New  Jersey,  and  Pennsyl- 
vania. The  inland,  or  Western  States,  are  so  far 
removed  from  a port,  and,  consequently,  a constant 
market  for  produce,  the  character  and  habits  of  the 
population  more  dissimilar  from  English  habits,  and 
the  advantage  possessed  by  the  natives  in  their  dex- 
terity in  clearing  land  so  great,  that  these  States  are 
presumed  not  to  be  eligible  for  the  English  agricul- 
turist. 

The  Southern  States,  from  the  climate  and  quality 
of  the  crops  raised,  present  but  little  encouragement 
to  the  European  cultivator. 


19 


CANADA. 

Introductory  Remarks. 

Before  proceeding  to  give  a brief  outline  of  Canada, 
something  must  be  said  of  the  situation  and  extent  of 
the  country  bearing  that  name, — a subject  on  which 
it  is  much  to  be  regretted  most  Englishmen  are  not 
at  all  informed,  or,  rather,  are  completely  misin- 
formed. 

In  Scotland  the  true  state  of  the  case  is  better 
known,  and  the  advantages  presented  by  fertility  of 
soil,  climate,  facility  of  reaching  a never-failing  mar- 
ket, absence  of  tithe,  taxes,  and  imposts,  except  the 
merest  trifle,  and  also  of  political  agitation,  are  duly 
appreciated,  ample  proof  of  which  exists  in  the  flou- 
rishing state  of  the  townships  in  both  provinces, 
settled  by  Scotsmen. 

Few  persons  give  the  consideration  they  ought  to 
the  circumstances  of  the  extent  of  the  British  posses- 
sions in  North  America.  From  the  eastern  shore  of 
Newfoundland  to  the  Western  end  of  Lake  Erie,  to 
which  point  civilization  extends,  is  little  less  than 
2000  miles.  Every  mile  is  verging  towards  the 
south,  and  it  would  be  quite  as  absurd  to  judge  of 
the  climate  and  soil  of  Dorsetshire  from  an  account 
of  the  most  northerly  point  of  Scotland,  as  to  com- 


20 


RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 


pare  the  climate  and  soil  of  the  eastern  part  of 
Canada  with  that  of  the  shores  of  the  lakes. 

The  river  St.  Lawrence,  which  constitutes  with 
the  lakes  the  greatest  extent  of  inland  navigation 
known,  and  including  Lake  Superior,  altogether  not 
much  less  than  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  clothes  this 
country  with  a value  which  centuries  will  be  required 
fully  to  disclose.  It  discharges  itself  into  the  ocean 
by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  from  which  it  is  navi- 
gable, for  ships  of  400  tons,  to  Montreal — a dis- 
tance of  580  miles.  The  width  at  the  entrance  from 
the  Gulf  is  about  80  miles ; and,  for  300  miles  up, 
the  width  is  seldom  less  than  20.  At  Quebec  it 
suddenly  contracts,  and  gives  that  city  its  most  com- 
manding character ; the  tide  flows  about  60  miles 
above  Quebec,  at  which  place  it  rises  about  18  feet 
in  ordinary  tides. 

The  St.  Lawrence,  in  its  course,  receives  nume- 
rous rivers,  which  in  Europe  would  be  described  as 
of  the  first  magnitude.  Some  of  them  flow  through 
countries  at  present  little  known,  but  which,  at  some 
future  period,  may  be  found  to  be  no  less  valuable 
than  the  parts  now  settled.  These  rivers  are  all  of 
them  much  darker  than  the  waters  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, which,  from  the  great  lakes  to  the  junction  of 
the  River  Ottawa  at  Montreal,  is  the  clearest  in  the 
world,  and  of  a beautiful  green.  All  these  rivers 
and  lakes  abound  with  valuable  fish,  of  which  much 
greater  profit  might  be  made  than  is  at  present 
attempted. 


LOWER  CANADA. 


21 


The  river,  from  the  ocean  to  the  point  where  the 
45th  degree  of  north  latitude  strikes  it  at  about  65 
miles  above  the  island  of  Montreal,  a distance  alto- 
gether of  640  miles,  is  exclusively  within  the  British 
dominions  ; and  British  subjects  alone  have  the 
right  of  navigating  thereon.  From  that  point  the 
southern  shore  of  the  river  and  the  lakes  is  in  the 
United  States  ; and  the  citizens  are  equally  entitled, 
with  the  British,  to  the  navigation  within  a line 
drawn  through  the  centre  of  the  river  and  lakes. 

The  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  growth  of  timber 
on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  are  almost  invariably  in- 
ferior to  the  timber  and  soil  of  the  interior. 

The  country,  bearing  the  general  name  of  Canada, 
is  divided  into  two  provinces — the  Upper,  and  the 
Lower — each  of  which  has  its  own  governor,  legis- 
lature, and  laws  ; and,  in  fact,  are  distinct  States, 
under  the  protection  of  Great  Britain. 


LOWER  CANADA. 

Climate — Soil — Money — Government— Laws — 
Towns — Envers,  fyc. 

The  province  of  Lower  Canada  is  the  eastern  part 
of  this  territory,  and  was  settled  to  a considerable 
extent  by  the  French,  whose  descendants  still  com- 
prise about  three-fourths  of  the  population. 

The  actual  settlement  and  cultivation  (excepting 
the  district  of  Gaspe,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Law- 


22 


CLIMATE. 


rence,  which  is  devoted  almost  wholly  to  the  timber 
trade  and  fisheries  ; the  comparative  productiveness 
of  these  trades  has  kept  the  people  from  pursuing 
agriculture,  although  parts  of  it  are  described  in  the 
official  reports  4 to  be  susceptible  of  the  most  im- 
proved agriculture,’  and  lime  and  coal  are  found) 
commences  about  80  miles  below  Quebec.  From 
thence  to  the  boundary  between  the  two  provinces, 
65  miles  above  Montreal,  being  about  325  miles 
along  the  St.  Lawrence  from  east  to  west.  The  ave- 
rage width  of  the  settled  country  on  each  side  along 
this  line,  may  be  stated  at  20  miles,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  that  portion  below  Quebec,  which  is  not 
wholly  settled  to  that  extent. 

The  country  within  these  limits  comprehends 
nearly  all  that  was  known  under  the  name  of  Canada 
at  the  time  of  its  conquest  by  the  English  under 
Wolfe,  in  1759  ; and  the  accounts  given  at  that 
time  of  the  rigour  of  the  climate  of  Quebec  and  the 
other  French  settlements  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence, are  too  generally  received  at  this  day  as 
applicable  to  the  whole  of  the  country  called  Canada  ; 
whereas  they  are  not  now  correctly  applicable  even 
to  the  parts  which  they  then  described, — it  being  a 
well-known  and  established  fact,  that  the  climate  of 
America  is  changing  with  the  clearing  of  the  forests. 
Even  at  New  York  there  are  old  people  now  alive 
who  remember  when  the  River  Hudson  was  frozen 
almost  every  winter,  so  as  to  be  passable  at  the  city  ; 
now  it  seldom  freezes  hard  enough  for  passage 


WINTER  AT  MONTREAL. 


23 


across  nearer  than  60  or  80  miles  north.  At  Quebec 
the  river  now  frequently  is  some  years  without  being 
frozen  hard  enough  for  passage  ; and  last  winter 
the  House  of  Representatives  voted  300/.  to  an  engi- 
neer to  form  a bridge  across,  by  stopping  the  ice, 
and  have  agreed  to  continue  that  allowance  to  him 
for  the  same  purpose — a pretty  good  proof  that  the 
frost  is  not  quite  so  strong  as  they  could  wish  ; and 
perhaps,  for  reasons  which  may  be  guessed  at,  from 
some  observations  that  follow  on  the  character  of 
the  Canadians,  they  are  not  at  all  pleased  with  the 
change  in  the  climate. 

The  author  passed  the  winter  of  1830-1  at  Mon- 
treal ; and  perhaps  a plain  statement,  with  dates  of 
what  occurred,  will  be  the  best  explanation  of  the 
weather.  December  12,  arrived  at  Montreal  from 
New  York.  On  that  day  the  steam-boat  Hercules 
arrived  from  Quebec,  and  announced  that  it  was  the 
last  trip.  The  steam-boats  which  cross  the  river  at 
Montreal  did  not  cease  to  run  till  the  14th,  at  which 
time  some  ice  had  formed  at  the  sides  of  the  river. 
Falls  of  snow,  sleet,  and  rain,  occurred  till  the  31st ; 
but  the  snow  did  not  lay,  and  carriages  on  wheels  were 
still  in  use.  On  the  1st  of  January  a heavy  fall  of 
snow  came,  and  the  frost  set  in  steadily : the  ice 
began  to  accumulate  in  the  river,  but  it  was  not  till 
the  26th  that  it  was  passable  for  sledges.  By  the 
middle  of  February,  the  sun  had  sufficient  power  to 
melt  the  snow  in  exposed  situations  ; and  on  the  1st 
of  March  a decided  thaw  commenced.  The  frost 


24 


WINTER  SEASON. 


rallied  for  a day  or  two  at  intervals,  and  a little  snow 
fell,  but  did  not  lay.  On  the  26th,  the  road  across 
the  river  entirely  broke  up.  By  the  10th  of  April  the 
floating  ice  had  disappeared,  and  none  remained  ex- 
cept at  the  sides,  where  it  had  accumulated  in  shal- 
low water.  During  the  whole  of  this  time  the  wea- 
ther did  not  keep  any  persons  within  doors,  except 
the  very  old,  invalids,  and  infants  ; on  the  contrary, 
hundreds,  who  never  get  into  a carriage  at  any  other 
season,  are  constantly  driving  about  in  their  car- 
rioles, which  are  nearly  all  open  ; in  fact,  the  winter 
is  the  season  of  gaiety,  not  only  in  the  towns,  but  in 
the  country;  and  at  Montreal  and  Quebec,  the 
months  of  January,  February,  and  March  are  de- 
voted to  pleasure  : riding  out  in  the  mornings,  and 
balls,  routs,  and  parties  in  the  evenings,  is  the  rou- 
tine through  the  winter.  Three  ships,  as  many 
steam-boats,  and  smaller  craft,  were  building,  and 
the  work  proceeded  all  the  cold  weather.  As  soon 
as  the  ice  on  the  river  is  passable,  the  town  assumes 
a busy  aspect,  from  the  numbers  of  farmers  from  the 
upper  province,  and  also  Americans,  who  bring 
heavy  loads  of  wheat,  pork,  ashes,  fish,  &c.  ; and  few 
of  the  Americans  leave  the  town  without  taking 
back  some  goods  on  which  there  are  high  duties  in 
the  United  States,  and  which  they  can  easily  smuggle 
in  at  this  time,  as  the  snow  and  ice  enable  them 
to  travel  in  all  directions  without  the  aid  of  bridges 
and  almost  without  roads.  The  construction  of  the 
houses,  with  extra  outer  doors  and  windows,  which 


WINTER  SEASON. 


25 


are  removed  in  the  spring,  and  the  mode  of  warming 
them  by  stoves  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  or  in  a 
doorway  between  two  rooms,  so  effectually  exclude 
the  cold,  and  retain  the  heat,  that  an  Englishman  is 
much  more  likely  to  complain  of  inconvenience  from 
the  latter  rather  than  the  former  cause,  in  a genuine 
Canadian  house.  The  halls  and  staircases  of  the 
better  houses  are  decorated  with  stages  of  gera- 
niums, myrtles,  and  other  plants  in  full  luxuriance  ; 
and  the  windows  of  the  smaller  houses  exhibit  simi- 
lar proofs,  that  whatever  may  be  the  state  of  the 
atmosphere  outside,  that  within  is  not  destructive  of 
vegetable  life.  On  the  12th  of  April  the  steam- 
boats commenced  running  to  the  opposite  shore ; 
and,  on  the  16th,  two  started  for  Quebec,  though 
the  ice  stopped  them  about  20  miles  from  Quebec, 
and  one,  by  imprudently  venturing  among  the  ice, 
was  sunk,  but  without  loss  of  life.  It  was  not  till 
the  21st,  that  the  other  reached  Quebec,  after  the 
final  clearing  of  the  river  from  ice. 

This  statement  of  the  actual  occurrences  at  Mon- 
treal may  go  some  way  to  prove  that  a winter  even 
in  Lower  Canada  is  not  so  dreadful  an  affair  as  is 
generally  supposed.  The  degree  of  cold  is  no 
doubt  severe,  especially  at  night ; but  the  almost 
total  absence  of  damp  and  fogs,  together  with  the 
presence  of  an  unclouded  sun  for  six  or  seven  hours 
nearly  every  day,  occasion  those  who  are  in  good 
health  to  consider  the  cold  as  a trifle ; while  those 
in  ill  health,  by  the  construction  of  the  houses,  and 

c 


26 


SUMMER  IN  CANADA. 


abundance  of  fuel,  may  escape  its  severity  by  keep- 
ing within  doors. 

Nor  must  it  be  forgotten  that  this  severity  of  cold 
is  productive  of  its  advantages.  By  the  consolida- 
tion of  the  snow,  the  worst  roads  are  converted  into 
the  best  for  the  transport  of  heavy  goods,  with  great 
ease  to  the  cattle,  while  the  lighter  carriages  spin 
along  with  a rapidity  perfectly  unattainable  at  other 
times.  Indeed,  a mild  winter  is  regarded  by  the 
Canadians  as  a great  calamity,  especially  by  those 
situate  at  a distance  from  the  navigable  waters  ; who 
at  this  season  convey  their  produce  to  market,  and 
bring  back  their  supplies  of  heavy  goods,  as  potash 
kettles,  liquors,  &c.,  with  the  most  trifling  labour, 
compared  with  what  would  be  required  without  the 
snow.  The  winter  is  also  the  time  when  timber  is 
felled,  and  drawn  on  the  snow  to  the  banks  of  the 
rivers,  to  be  floated  down  to  Quebec  in  the  spring. 

If  the  winters  of  Lower  Canada  are  of  a decided 
character,  so  also  are  the  summers.  Scarcely  has  the 
snow  disappeared  before  the  meadows  are  covered 
with  verdure,  and  in  two  or  three  weeks  will  exhibit 
a luxuriance  which  as  many  months  are  required  to 
produce  here.  The  apple-trees  are  speedily  in  blos- 
som, and  summer  reigns  in  full  vigour  in  less  than  a 
month  after  the  snow  has  entirely  left  the  ground. 

The  markets  of  Montreal  are  supplied  with  the 
early  fruits  and  vegetables,  produced  naturally,  as 
soon,  or  sooner  than  the  London  markets  are.  The 
ground  is,  generally,  fit  for  ploughing  in  the  early 


TEMPERATURE  OF  MONTREAL. 


27 


part  of  May,  and  in  a month  after  the  seed  is  sown 
the  plant  is  waving  in  the  breeze.  Wheat  is  fit  to 
cut  in  four,  and  the  lighter  grain  in  three,  months. 
Heavy  thunder-showers  occur  in  the  summer  months, 
with  a day’s  rain  or  so  ; but  beyond  this,  the  weather 
is  not  much  disturbed.  Towards  the  latter  end  of 
September  the  evenings  begin  to  grow  cool  after  the 
sun  is  down,  but  the  days  are  frequently  hot,  and 
always  pleasant.  November,  and  the  early  part  of 
December,  is  the  most  unpleasant  time  of  the  year, 
from  the  frequent  occurrence  of  rain,  sleet,  and 
snow. 

The  temperature  of  Montreal  may  be  considered 
as  comprehending  the  climate  of  Lower  Canada, 
only  as  far  east  as  Three  Rivers.  Below  that  it  is 
more  severe,  and  a slight  degree  of  frost  sometimes 
occurs  in  the  summer  months. 

All  the  vegetables  and  fruits  which  are  cultivated 
in  England  will  thrive  in  Canada,  and  many  of  them 
might  be  brought  to  much  higher  perfection : for 
instance,  the  markets  of  Montreal  are  supplied  plen- 
tifully with  delicious  melons,  produced  without  arti- 
ficial heat ; and  there  can  be  no  doubt  other  fruits 
might  be  grown  equally  fine  if  properly  attended  to ; 
but  the  Canadians  are  bad  farmers  and  gardeners, 
adhering  to  old  methods  and  customs  with  the 
greatest  pertinacity. 

The  general  character  of  the  soil  of  Lower  Canada 
is  clayey,  without  stones,  except  some  large  round 

c 2 


28  QUEBEC THE  ST.  LAWRENCE, 

masses  of  granite,  most  frequent  near  the  banks  of 
rivers. 

The  eastern,  or  Quebec  division,  is  inferior  to  the 
Montreal,  or  western  division.  The  former  is  inter- 
spersed with  tracts  of  sandy  or  gravelly  soil,  covered 
only  with  a slight  surface  of  vegetable  earth.  In  the 
latter  the  prevalent  character  is  a bluish  marl  with  a 
black  mould,  forming  a very  fertile  soil.  Towards 
the  mountains  it  is  more  light  and  loamy,  is  more 
easily  cleared,  and  is,  at  first,  very  productive. 

Besides  the  tract  already  described  as  settled  along 
the  St.  Lawrence,  there  are  settlements  along  the 
line  which  divides  Canada  from  the  States  of  New 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  and  New  York,  which  are 
called  townships. 

The  land  in  these  townships  is  described  as  of 
excellent  quality  generally,  and  greatly  exceeding  in 
worth  that  portion  of  the  United  States  on  which  they 
border,  insomuch  as  to  have  induced  great  numbers 
of  Americans  to  settle  there  ; much  to  the  offence  of 
the  French  Canadians,  who  have  a great  antipathy 
to  them.  Large  quantities  of  pot  and  pearl  ashes 
are  made,  thus  proving  the  good  quality  of  the  soil, 
as  they  are  made  only  from  hard  woods,  which  never 
grow  in  sufficient  quantities  for  this  purpose  in  any 
but  good  soil. 

The  river  St.  Francis,  with  the  lake  Memphre- 
magog,  runs  through  a considerable  part  of  this 
division,  and  falls  into  the  St.  Lawrence  between 


THE  OTTAWA. 


29 


Three  Rivers  and  Sorel.  At  present  the  navigation 
is  interrupted  with  rapids  (sloping  descents,  generally 
incumbered  with  large  stones),  but  it  is  said  to  be 
capable  of  being  made  navigable  at  an  easy  expense. 
Surveys  and  estimates  have  been  made,  and  there  is 
no  doubt  that  in  a short  time  this  line  of  water  com- 
munication from  those  townships  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
will  be  made  available  for  all  the  purposes  of  com- 
merce. 

There  is  also  a range  of  townships  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  Ottawa  river,  which  is  navigable  for  a 
very  considerable  way  up. 

The  land  for  some  distance  from  the  river  is  good 
for  tillage  or  pasturage,  but  gets  stony  towards  the 
mountains.  These  townships  are  of  more  recent 
date  than  those  before  described,  but  considerable 
numbers  of  settlers  have,  within  the  last  few  years, 
proceeded  to  them. 

The  sides  of  the  River  Ottawa  present  many  fine 
seats  for  mills,  with  power  to  almost  any  extent, 
and  the  facility  of  receiving  grain  from  the  upper 
county  by  the  Rideau  canal,  which  enters  the  Ottawa 
at  By  Town,  and  conveying  the  flour  to  Montreal, 
will  not  be  lost  sight  of  as  trade  and  settlement 
increase*. 

* The  population  of  the  townships  in  the  lower  province  have 
increased  so  rapidly,  that  they  are  entitled  to  return  four  more 
members  to  the  Legislative  Assembly  than  they  were  in  1830, 
and  the  Governor  has  been  required  to  issue  his  writs  accord- 
ingly. 


30 


ARRIVAL  AT  QUEBEC. 


The  timber  up  the  Ottawa  is  considered  valuable, 
and  extensive  operations  in  lumbering  (the  term  for 
the  timber  trade)  are  carried  on  in  its  neighbourhood. 

A very  large  tract  of  country,  extending  from  the 
mountains  behind  the  townships  last  mentioned,  on 
the  Ottawa,  to  the  river  Saguenai,  which  enters  the 
St.  Lawrence  on  the  north  side,  about  120  miles  east 
of  Quebec,  has  been  explored,  and  a grant  has  been 
made  for  making  a road  through  it,  which  has 
already  commenced.  This  tract  is  described  as 
abounding  in  the  requisites  for  a settlement.  The 
soil  is  good,  and  the  climate  of  a much  milder  tern- 
perature  than  its  geographical  position  would  seem 
to  indicate.  The  river  Saguenai,  which  flows 
through  this  country,  and  terminates  in  a lake  of 
some  size  (St.  John),  is  navigable  a great  way  from 
its  mouth  for  ships,  and  for  small  craft  through  its 
whole  extent.  Should  the  accounts  given  of  this  sec- 
tion be  correct,  it  will  prove  a very  valuable  addition 
to  the  colony,  by  opening  upwards  of  six  millions  of 
land  capable  of  cultivation,  and  in  the  most  favour- 
able position  for  exporting  the  produce  at  an  easy 
expense. 

ARRIVAL  AT  QUEBEC. 

On  arriving  at  Quebec  the  emigrant,  if  a labourer, 
and  not  provided  with  the  means  of  going  farther, 
had  better  go  at  once  to  the  office  of  the  govern- 
ment agent,  who  will  inform  him  what  public  works 


EMIGRANTS CANADA  COMPANY. 


31 


are  going  on,  and  the  rates  of  wages  paid.  He  will 
also,  by  inquiry,  find  what  private  works  are  in  pro- 
gress, and  the  demand  for  labourers  at  the  coves, 
wharfs,  granaries,  saw-mills,  &c.  &c.  The  influx  of 
emigrants  is  so  great  during  the  summer  months, 
that  if  the  expense  of  reaching  Montreal  (a  dollar,  or 
a dollar  and  a half)  is  within  the  reach  of  the 
labourer,  he  had  best  make  his  way  there  if  he  does 
not  find  immediate  employment  at  Quebec. 

The  agricultural  emigrant  of  small  means  should 
go  immediately  to  the  office  of  his  Majesty’s  agent  in 
St.  Peter’ s-street,  and  get  all  the  information  he  can 
(see  copy  of  notice  in  Appendix,  No.  I),  and  be  guided 
by  circumstances.  He  will  also  find  many  private  in- 
dividuals who  hold  land,  and  are  anxious  to  sell  it,  or 
obtain  settlers  to  go  upon  it.  It  is  almost  needless 
to  observe  that  some  caution  is  necessary  in  engaging 
either  to  purchase  or  to  settle  on  such  lands,  as  the 
laws  differ  considerably  from  our  own;  and  although 
they  may  even  be  as  good,  yet,  for  want  of  knowing 
and  understanding  them,  an  error  may  be  committed 
in  a contract,  which  would  be  unpleasant  if  not  in- 
jurious. The  Canada  Company  have  an  agent  at 
Quebec,  but  they  have  no  land  in  the  lower  province. 
He  will,  however,  give  the  fullest  information  as  to 
the  best  mode  of  proceeding  to  the  upper  province, 
and  show  plans  of  the  land  and  the  townships  in 
which  they  are  situate.  It  may,  perhaps,  be  as  well 
in  this  place  to  remark,  that  the  Company  sell  their 
land  at  a higher  price  than  Government,  or  private 


32 


HINTS  TO  EMIGRANTS. 


holders ; but  as  some  set  off  against  the  advanced 
price,  the  settler  has  the  advantage  of  main  roads 
made  at  their  expense.  They  also  erect  saw  and 
grist  mills,  and  establish  stores  or  shops  at  which 
the  settler  can  supply  himself  with  all  the  necessaries 
of  life  till  he  can  get  his  land  under  cultivation. 

Under  the  name  of  townships  are  included  all 
lands  granted  since  the  conquest,  and  on  which  the 
settlers  are  chiefly  from  Great  Britain,  or  the  United 
States.  To  these  portions  of  the  Lower  Province 
the  attention  of  the  emigrant  must  principally  be  di- 
rected, if  he  intends  to  invest  capital.  The  com- 
plexity of  the  laws  relating  to  landed  and  real  estate, 
together  with  the  absence  of  register,  everywhere 
except  in  the  townships,  render  it  difficult  to  secure 
an  undeniable  title  in  the  old  parts  of  the  Lower 
Province,  and  none  but  persons  of  known  respecta- 
bility should  be  treated  with,  unless  through  the 
medium  of  a public  notary. 

Here  it  must  be  remarked,  that  in  all  parts  of 
America  the  attention  must  be  directed  to  the  situa- 
tion of  the  land  rather  than  its  quality ; and  it  is  the 
more  necessary  to  impress  this  upon  emigrants,  be- 
cause it  is  the  reverse  of  the  general  practice  here, 
where  markets,  and  facilities  of  reaching  them,  are  so 
universally  distributed,  that  the  quality  of  the  land  is 
almost  everything,  and  the  situation  comparatively 
nothing.  Not  so  in  America.  Good  land,  remote 
from  water-carriage,  is  scarce  worth  cultivating,  as 
roads  capable  of  bearing  heavy  loads  do  not,  nor 


QUEBEC. 


33 


cannot  be  supposed  to  exist  to  any  extent  compa- 
rable even  to  the  worst-supplied  parts  of  England ; 
and  the  only  time  at  which  produce  and  heavy  loads 
can  be  conveyed  to  or  from  remote  lands  is  in  win- 
ter and  on  the  snow.  Hence  arises  the  greatest 
necessity  for  all  who  go  to  any  part  of  America  to 
settle,  to  study  well  the  maps  of  that  part,  and 
become  acquainted  with  the  rivers  and  canals,  and 
which  rivers  are  navigable,  and  which  are  not. 
Upon  the  degree  of  intelligence  exercised  on  this 
point  rests  much  of  the  future  prosperity  of  the 
settler ; while  the  chance  of  his  settling  himself 
permanently  upon  bad  land  is  but  small.— -See  Ap- 
pendix, No.  2. 


QUEBEC. 

The  city  of  Quebec  is  situated  on  a promontory 
which  stretches  out  from  the  land  on  the  north  side 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  into  a spacious  basin,  formed 
by  the  junction  of  the  River  St.  Charles  with  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  extremity,  or  point,  is  called  Cape 
Diamond,  which  is  350  feet  above  the  river,  and 
terminates  abruptly  within  a very  short  distance  of 
it.  The  Upper  Town  is  built  on  this  point  within 
the  walls  of  the  fortifications,  which  are  about  two 
miles  and  three-quarters  in  circuit,  including  the 
citadel 

Here  are  the  governor’s  house,  the  barracks  of 
the  troops  (two  or  three  regiments),  the  principal 
market,  churches,  and  other  public  buildings.  The 

c 5 


34 


QUEBEC. 


houses  are  of  stone  ; but,  except  those  erected  within 
the  last  few  years,  are  generally  of  very  rough  exte- 
rior aspect,  though  sufficiently  comfortable  within 
side. 

Lately  a quarry  of  fine  blue  granite  has  been  worked 
at  Montreal,  of  which  the  works  of  the  citadel,  the 
Exchange,  a church,  and  most  of  the  houses  erected 
within  the  last  few  years,  are  constructed.  The 
pavements  of  the  principal  streets  are  also  under- 
going repair  with  the  same  stone  ; and  this  portion 
of  Quebec  is  assuming  a new  aspect. 

The  greatest  portion  of  the  retail  business  is  con- 
ducted here,  and  a few  of  the  shops  are  not  defi- 
cient in  outward  attractions  ; but  generally  the  stock 
and  variety  found  inside  will  greatly  exceed  the  ex- 
pectations raised  by  the  outside  appearance ; and 
this  observation  will  apply  to  many  other  matters 
besides  shops  and  warehouses,  which  improve  upon 
better  acquaintance. 

Most  of  the  English  merchants  and  their  families 
reside  in  the  Upper  Town,  and  here  are  numerous 
boarding-houses,  where  accommodation  is  to  be  ob- 
tained at  various  rates,  from  three  to  six  dollars  per 
week.  The  hotels,  taverns  ( there  are  no  public-houses 
in  America ),  and  confectioners,  receive  boarders  at  a 
stated  price  per  day,  week,  or  month.  The  last- 
named  differ  very  much  from  the  English  confec- 
tioners, as,  in  addition  to  the  usual  routine  of  pastry, 
&c.,  they  deal  in  wine,  spirits,  and  ale,  and  combine 
something  like  the  trade  of  our  coffee  and  chop- 
houses  with  their  own. 


COMMERCIAL  BUILDINGS. 


35 


The  Lower  Town  is  situate  along  the  river  St 
Lawrence,  from  the  foot  of  the  precipice  on  which 
the  Upper  Town  is  built,  to  the  water.  Here  are 
the  banks  of  Quebec,  and  a branch  bank  of  Mon- 
treal, the  Custom-house,  the  Exchange,  in  which  is 
a news-room,  furnished  with  the  English,  Canada, 
and  American  papers ; the  Trinity  House,  the 
market  for  fish,  and  the  live  and  dead  stock  which 
come  from  the  south  shore  of  the  river,  with  which 
there  is  a constant  communication  maintained  by 
two  steam-boats,  and  several  other  boats  whose  ma- 
chinery is  worked  by  horses. 

The  warehouses,  granaries,  and  all  establishments 
connected  with  shipping  and  wholesale  trade,  are 
here.  Also,  hotels  and  taverns  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  the  captains  and  mates,  with  numerous  lodg- 
ing and  boarding  houses  for  sailors  and  others, 
whose  business  or  means  do  not  allow  of  their  resi- 
dence in  the  Upper  Town. 

The  wharfage  is  very  extensive  and  convenient, 
occupying  a continued  line  of  near  two  miles,  and, 
during  six  or  seven  months,  presents  a busy  scene. 
In  that  space  last  year,  upwards  of  1000  ships  and 
vessels,  of  from  150  to  600  tons,  arrived  with  goods 
and  emigrants,  and  took  their  departure  with  the 
produce  of  the  country. 

The  steam-boats  which  run  to  Montreal  are  fine 
large  boats ; the  two  last  built,  viz.,  the  British- 
America  and  the  John  Bull,  are  not  excelled  by  any 
in  the  world  for  their  elegance  or  power.  Two  of 


36 


TIMBER  TRADE. 


them  arrive  and  take  their  departure  every  day  ; and 
the  large  ones  have  one  or  two  barges,  of  200  tons, 
for  goods  only,  which  they  take  in  tow  ; and  this 
constant  traffic  gives  great  animation  to  the  wharfs 
from  which  they  start. 

The  suburbs  of  St.  Louis,  St.  John,  and  St.  Roche, 
are  chiefly  inhabited  by  Canadians  and  the  labour- 
ing population.  Here  are  the  manufacturing  trades, 
as  ship  and  boat  building,  steam  saw-mills,  coopers, 
leather-dressers,  iron  and  brass-founders,  smiths, 
tinmen,  &c.  &c.  Rents  are  low  here ; and  the 
suburb  of  St.  Roche,  from  its  frontage  to  the  river 
St.  Charles,  is  favourably  circumstanced  for  many 
trades. 

The  timber  trade  of  Quebec  is  chiefly  conducted 
at  the  Coves,  which  are  a succession  of  shallow  bays, 
formed  by  the  river  above  the  town,  in  which  the 
timber  floated  to  them  in  immense  rafts,  is  secured 
by  booms  placed  across  the  mouth  of  the  bays. 

The  ships  come  up  opposite  the  Coves,  where  they 
lie  in  the  stream : here  they  take  in  their  loading, 
which  is  floated  to  them  in  the  quantities  and  of  the 
qualities  desired. 

Ship-building  is  carried  on  to  a large  extent  in 
these  Coves,  as  also  stave-cutting.  Some  hundreds 
of  persons  are  employed  in  these  various  operations, 
the  supplying  of  whom  and  their  families  with  the 
necessaries  of  life  gives  employment  to  numbers 
more. 

There  are  three  very  extensive  sawing  establish- 


SAW-MILLS STEAM-BOATS. 


37 


merits  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Quebec.  Those  at 
Montmorency  are  worked  by  the  fall  of  the  river  of 
the  same  name,  about  six  miles  below  the  town. 
Those  of  New  Liverpool,  opposite  the  Coves,  are 
worked  by  steam  power ; and  those  at  St.  Nicholas, 
about  eight  miles  above  the  last,  which  are  worked 
by  a fall  from  the  river  Chaudiere.  Each  of  these 
works  employs  numerous  engineers  and  other  work- 
men and  labourers.  Besides  these,  there  are  many 
smaller  saw-mills  and  timber  establishments  on  both 
sides  of  the  river,  and  also  slips  for  the  building  and 
repairing  schooners  and  small  craft  for  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  river  and  gulf. 

A steam-boat  runs  from  Quebec  to  St.  Nicholas, 
which  is  the  most  convenient  point  for  communica- 
tion with  the  townships  by  Craig’s  Road. 

A company  was  established  in  1830,  for  forming 
a line  of  communication  by  steam-boats,  between 
Quebec  and  Halifax  in  Nova  Scotia,  which  passage 
it  was  calculated  could  be  made  in  six  days,  though 
it  takes  from  fifteen  to  thirty  by  the  ordinary  mode 
of  sailing.  A beautiful  boat  was  built  and  launched 
on  the  27th  of  April,  1831  ; but  great  delay  occurred 
in  fitting  her  engines,  and,  after  they  were  fixed,  fur- 
ther misfortunes  attended  her,  and  she  was  able  to 
make  but  one  trip  last  year  ; but  in  that  she  encoun- 
tered a heavy  gale,  which  she  rode  out  well,  and  gave 
every  reason  to  expect  that  the  purpose  for  which 
she  was  built  will  be  fully  accomplished.  At  Que- 


38 


PASSAGE  TO  MONTREAL. 


bee,  the  success  of  this  affair  is  considered  as  fraught 
with  great  advantage  to  trade. 

The  population  of  Quebec,  including  the  suburbs, 
is  not  much  under  30,000,  which  is  exceeded  in  the 
summer.  The  roads  in  its  vicinity  are  kept  in  good 
order,  and  are  enlivened  by  numbers  of  the  country- 
houses  of  the  principal  people. 

The  character  of  the  scenery  is  mountainous,  but 
the  parts  under  cultivation  are  highly  productive,  and 
the  heights  are  crowned  with  forests  of  every  shade. 
Perhaps  the  views  from  the  flag-tower  of  the  citadel, 
and  from  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  in  the  summer 
months,  are  equalled  by  few,  and  exceeded  by  none, 
of  the  most  famed  views  in  Europe  for  grandeur  and 
magnificence  of  natural  beauties  ; while  the  shipping 
in  the  noble  river  beneath,  and  the  unceasing  song 
by  which  the  men  regulate  their  labours  in  loading 
the  timber-ships,  rendered  most  touchingly  harmo- 
nious by  the  distance  and  the  gentle  breeze  which  is 
almost  constantly  playing  on  these  heights,  produce, 
altogether,  an  effect  that  words  can  scarcely  de- 
scribe. 


PASSAGE  TO  MONTREAL. 

The  steam-boats  for  Montreal  do  not  always  start  at 
the  same  hour,  on  account  of  the  tide,  which  it  is 
desirable  to  carry  as  far  as  possible  in  their  upward 
course  ; the  first  stop  is  made  at  Three  Rivers,  90 


THREE  RIVERS. 


39 


miles  from  Quebec,  which  is  the  third  town  in  the 
province,  and  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  river 
St.  Maurice  with  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  north 
side. 

THREE  RIVERS. 

Although  very  small  in  comparison  with  the  cities 
of  Montreal  and  Quebec,  it  is,  nevertheless,  a place 
of  some  considerable  trade.  The  neighbouring- 
country  on  each  side  of  the  river  receives  its  supply 
of  goods  from  hence,  and  returns  its  produce  for 
transmission  to  Quebec.  Here  is  a trade  of  some 
extent  with  the  Indians  in  furs.  The  iron  mines 
and  foundry  of  St.  Maurice  are  on  the  banks  of  the 
river  of  that  name,  about  nine  miles  from  Three 
Rivers ; and  those  of  Batiscan,  on  the  river  Batis- 
can,  are  also  in  this  neighbourhood.  Several  hun- 
dreds of  persons  are  employed  in  these  mines  and 
works,  and  in  preparing  the  charcoal  for  their  use. 

Large  quantities  of  excellent  timber  are  procured 
up  the  St.  Maurice  and  the  other  rivers  in  this  part  ; 
and  as  the  depth  of  water  at  the  town  is  sufficient 
for  large  ships,  it  offers  a desirable  spot  for  ship- 
building establishments.  At  present,  few  except 
small  craft  are  constructed  here  ; but  the  advantages 
of  its  situation  will  not  be  long  neglected. 


40 


BERTHIER. 

The  next  stop  made  is  at  Berthier,  on  the  same  side 
of  the  river,  about  40  miles  from  Three  Rivers.  It 
is  a town  fast  rising  in  importance.  The  district 
in  which  it  is  seated  is  particularly  fertile ; and 
large  quantities  of  grain  are  here  collected  for  ex- 
portation. The  river  is  not  so  deep  as  at  Three 
Rivers,  but  many  small  islands  are  interspersed  in  it, 
and  render  this  a most  delightful  spot. 

SOREL,  OR  WILLIAM-HENRY. 

Nearly  opposite  Berthier,  and  on  the  southern  shore, 
is  the  town  of  Sorel,  or  William-Henry  ; the  latter  of 
which  names  it  acquired  in  consequence  of  its  having 
been  the  residence  of  our  present  patriotic  sovereign 
when  on  service  in  the  colony.  It  is  seated  on  the 
river  Richelieu,  at  its  entrance  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  a most  advantageous  situation  for 
trade. 

The  river  Richelieu  connects  Lake  Champlain 
with  the  St.  Lawrence.  At  present  it  is  not  navi- 
gable through  the  whole  of  its  course  for  schooners, 
being  interrupted  by  rapids ; but  a large  grant  has 
been  made  by  the  Legislature,  to  remove  these  diffi- 
culties, by  locking,  &c. ; and  the  work  has  already 
made  considerable  progress.  When  complete,  this 
navigation  will  not  only  be  of  great  benefit  to  that 
part  of  the  province  through  which  it  runs,  but  will 


SOREL,  OR  WILLIAM-HENRY. 


41 


offer  to  the  States  of  New  York,  and  Vermont,  bor- 
dering on  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  rivers  falling 
into  it,  the  readiest  and  cheapest  road  to  a market 
for  their  produce,  which  can  be  shipped  at  Sorel  for 
England  or  elsewhere  ; and  the  above-named  States 
may  receive  their  supply  of  heavy  goods  by  the  same 
route  at  a much  cheaper  rate  than  they  can  from  the 
port  of  New  York,  and  with  greater  facility,  as  two 
transhipments  will  be  saved  which  at  present  occur 
at  each  end  of  the  canal  between  Lake  Champlain 
and  Albany.  The  Richelieu,  for  nine  miles  above 
the  town,  is  of  sufficient  depth  for  vessels  of  very 
large  burden,  and  is,  therefore,  adapted  for  ship- 
building establishments  ; and,  altogether,  the  advan- 
tages possessed  by  its  situation  cannot  fail  of  making 
this  a town  of  great  trade  and  importance. 

The  navigation  here  alluded  to  will  be  called  the 
Chambly  Canal. 

From  hence  to  Montreal,  no  call  is  made.  The 
banks  of  the  river  from  Quebec  to  Three  Rivers  are 
high  and  magnificently  picturesque.  It  then  widens, 
and  is  called  Lake  St.  Peter,  the  upper  end  of  which 
is  studded  with  islands  of  luxuriant  verdure.  The 
shores  from  the  lake  to  Montreal  are  lower,  but  still 
high  at  intervals.  Both  sides  from  Quebec  to  Mon- 
treal are  enlivened  by  villages,  whose  churches  are 
never  long  absent  from  the  view,  and,  by  the  glitter- 
ing of  their  bright  tin-covered  spires,  constitute  a 
singular  and  pleasing  feature  in  the  landscape. 

The  price  charged  for  a cabin  passage  upwards  is 


42 


MONTREAL. 


five  dollars,  including  sumptuous  board ; down- 
wards, the  passage  is  a dollar  less,  because  it  is 
made  in  less  time.  The  deck-passage  is  one  dollar 
and  a half,  not  including  board.  An  opposition 
steam-boat  takes  cabin-passengers  at  a dollar  less 
each  way,  but  charges  the  same  for  deck  passengers. 
Short  distances  are  charged  in  proportion.  No  acci- 
dent with  loss  of  life  or  limb  has  occurred  in  any  of 
the  steam-boats  navigating  the  St.  Lawrence,  al- 
though a summer  never  passes  without  scores  being 
sent  to  their  account  by  accidents  in  the  boats  of  the 
United  States,  which  can  only  be  accounted  for  on 
the  supposition  of  slightness  in  the  make  of  their 
machinery,  or  incompetence  in  their  engineers. 

MONTREAL. 

Montreal,  180  miles  above,  or  to  the  west  of  Que- 
bec, is  situate  on  the  south  side  of  an  island  of  the 
same  name,  thirty-two  miles  long,  and  ten  broad  ; 
which,  with  several  smaller  ones,  lies  in  a sort  of 
lake  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  river  Ottawa 
with  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  ground  on  which  the 
town  is  built  is  much  more  favourable  for  the  site  of 
a handsome  city  than  Quebec,  which,  from  the  great 
inequality  of  surface,  excludes  uniformity  to  any  ex- 
tent. 

The  two  principal  streets  of  business,  Notre 
Dame  and  St.  Paul,  run  the  whole  length  of  the 
city  ; the  former,  with  the  suburb  adjoining  it,  forms 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


43 


a continued  street  near  three  miles  long,  and  the 
latter,  more  than  one.  The  houses  in  the  city  are 
of  brick  or  stone,  but  principally  of  the  latter,  and 
the  streets  are  paved. 

The  town  contains  numerous  churches,  chapels, 
and  public  buildings,  many  of  which  would  be  orna- 
mental to  any  town  in  Europe ; among  them  is  the 
French  Church  in  the  Place  des  Armes,  which  was 
built  by  subscription,  and  is  the  largest  edifice  in 
North  America,  being  capable  of  seating  10,000 
persons.  It  is  built  in  the  plain  Gothic  style,  of 
a bluish  granite,  which  is  found  in  abundance  in  the 
mountain  close  to  the  town,  and  is  altogether  a struc- 
ture that  any  city  in  the  world  might  be  proud  of. 
The  seminaries  of  Montreal  demand  particular  no- 
tice. That  of  St.  Sulpice,  adjoining  the  cathedral,  is 
an  extensive  building,  and  the  students  are  instructed 
in  all  the  branches  of  knowledge,  including  the  higher 
branches  of  mathematics  and  philosophy.  The 
French  college  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  town 
is  well  furnished  with  professors  in  all  the  branches 
of  learning,  and  has  from  200  to  300  students,  who, 
as  well  as  the  students  at  the  seminary,  are  chiefly 
the  Canadian  youth.  The  want  of  an  institution  for 
the  liberal  education  of  British  youth  was  not  sup- 
plied till  1814,  when  a merchant  named  Me  Gill  be- 
queathed 10,000/.  to  endow  a college  to  bear  his 
name,  which  has  since  been  incorporated  by  royal 
charter,  and  the  course  of  education  in  it  is  assimi- 
lated to  that  of  the  collegiate  schools  in  Great 


44 


COMMERCE MARKETS. 


Britain.  There  are  also  here  and  at  Quebec  societies 
of  natural  history,  mechanics’  institutes,  agricultural, 
literary,  &c. 

The  roofs  of  nearly  all  the  houses  and  all  the 
churches  and  spires  are  covered  with  tin,  which  con- 
tinues bright  for  twenty  or  more  years.  The  houses 
in  the  suburbs  are  smaller,  and  chiefly  constructed 
of  wood,  although  even  here  stone  is  beginning  to 
take  its  place.  The  causeways  are  only  partially 
paved,  but  every  day  is  adding  to  the  improvement 
of  the  town  in  this  respect. 

Montreal  in  the  year  1829  did  not  possess  an 
erection  worthy  to  be  called  a wharf.  In  that  year 
large  grants  were  made  by  the  legislature  to  remove 
this  stigma  on  the  second  city  in  rank,  but  first  in 
point  of  business  in  the  provinces.  1830  and  31 
did  much  towards  completing  a line  of  commodious 
landings  for  goods  and  passengers,  which  are  in  suf- 
ficient forwardness  for  use  ; but  some  years  must 
elapse  before  Montreal  is  furnished  with  the  wharf- 
age its  large  and  important  trade  requires. 

The  markets  are  abundantly  supplied  with  meat, 
poultry,  vegetables,  &c.,  the  produce  of  the  island 
and  the  opposite  shore,  to  which  three  steam-boats, 
and  also  horse-boats,  are  constantly  plying.  Fish  is 
not  supplied  in  the  quantities  it  might  be,  which  is, 
perhaps,  to  be  attributed  to  abundance  and  low  price 
of  meat  and  poultry. 

This  is  undoubtedly  the  principle  seat  of  business 
in  the  provinces  of  Canada.  The  merchants  have 


MANUFACTURES POPULATION. 


45 


extensive  stores  or  warehouses  from  which  all  the 
Upper  Province  is  supplied,  and  also  the  western 
part  of  the  lower.  The  produce  of  the  East  and 
West  Indies,  wines,  brandies,  &c.,  are  here  stored,  to 
be  distributed  over  the  same  district;  and  the  pro- 
duce of  the  upper  country,  and  also  a considerable 
share  of  the  produce  of  the  United  States  bordering 
on  the  River  St.  Lawrence  and  the  large  lakes,  is 
here  collected  for  exportation  to  Europe. 

In  the  town  and  neighbourhood  tanning,  hatting, 
leather-dressing,  soap  and  candle  making,  and  ship- 
building are  carried  on  to  a large  extent.  There  are 
likewise  breweries,  distilleries,  founderies,  furriers, 
nailmakers,  &c.  &c.,  great  quantities  of  pork  and 
beef  are  brought  in  from  the  United  States,  and 
here  salted  for  exportation.  The  timber  trade  is  not 
carried  on  to  any  extent  here,  as  the  rafts  can  easily 
float  down  to  Quebec. 

The  population  of  Montreal  rather  exceeds  that 
of  Quebec,  and  at  both  are  large  hospitals  for  the 
sick  and  indigent,  with  various  other  charitable  esta- 
blishments. In  the  winter  of  1830-1,  the  ladies  of 
Montreal  raised  by  the  sale  of  fancy  work  upwards 
of  700/.,  which  together  with  a considerable  sum 
raised  by  the  amateur  performers  at  the  theatre  (a 
very  neat  and  elegant  little  structure)  was  handed 
over  to  the  different  charitable  institutions  of  the 
town. 

The  summer  route  from  hence  to  the  city  of  New 


46 


ROUTE  TO  NEW-YORK. 


York  is  very  pleasant,  and  the  distance,  420  miles, 
traversed  with  great  ease  in  two  days  and  nights. 
Thus,  from  Montreal  the  river  is  crossed  in  a steam- 
boat to  La  Prairie,  thence  to  St.  J ohn’s,  eighteen  miles 
by  coach,  where  the  steam-boat  is  taken  to  White- 
hall, at  the  southern  extremity  of  Lake  Champlain. 
From  thence  to  Albany,  seventy-five  miles,  there  are 
two  routes,  by  canal  or  coach, — the  latter  is  the  most 
expeditious.  From  Albany  the  steam-boat  is  taken 
to  New  York.  The  whole  journey  maybe  performed 
handsomely  for  fourteen  dollars,  including  board  all 
the  way,  and  those  who  cannot  afford  so  much  may 
do  it  for  half  the  price.  During  the  winter  there  is 
a constant  communication  kept  up  by  land,  but  the 
time  occupied,  and  the  expense,  greatly  exceeds  that 
of  the  summer  route. 

The  River  St.  Lawrence,  at  the  south-west  side  of 
the  island  of  Montreal,  is  broken  by  the  first  rapid 
that  offers  any  interruption  to  the  navigation  of 
steam-boats,  and  small  craft  of  about  six  tons  have 
great  difficulty  in  ascending  the  stream.  To  over- 
come this  interruption,  a canal  has  been  cut  across 
a point  of  the  island  to  La  Chine,  nine  miles,  where 
the  river  is  again  navigable  for  steam-boats  to  the 
foot  of  the  Cascade  Rapids.  To  Coteau  du  Lac 
from  thence  is  sixteen  miles,  and  travellers  proceed 
by  coach.  Boats  are  dragged  and  propelled  up  the 
rapids  with  great  labour.  At  Coteau  du  Lac  is 
smooth  water  again  to  Cornwall,  forty-two  miles. 


RIDEAU  CANAL. 


47 


which  part  is  navigated  by  a steam-boat.  From 
thence  to  Prescot,  sixty  miles,  the  river  is  broken  by 
a succession  of  rapids  with  only  small  intervals  of 
smooth  water  (sufficient,  however,  to  allow  of  safe 
passage  across).  This  part  of  the  journey,  is  per 
formed  by  coach,  the  boats  being  three  or  more  days 
getting  up.  At  Prescot  all  difficulties  cease  for 
350  miles,  when  the  falls  of  Niagara  present  their 
formidable  front.  But  even  those  now  cease  to  bar 
the  free  communication  between  the  large  lakes. 

RIDEAU  CANAL. 

To  surmount  the  obstacles  presented  by  the  above- 
named  rapids  to  free,  cheap,  and  commodious  inter 
course  with  Upper  Canada,  a most  magnificent 
canal  was  projected,  and  by  the  well-placed  liberality 
of  England,  is  nearly  brought  to  completion*.  In 
addition  to  its  inestimable  value  for  the  cheap  and 
easy  transport  of  goods,  it  secures  a communication 
between  the  provinces  for  the  conveyance  of  troops 
and  munitions  of  war,  not  liable  to  interruption 

* On  the  22d  of  May,  1832,  that  portion  of  the  canal  between 
Kingston  and  Lake  Rideau,  was  opened,  when  Colonel  By,  the 
chief  engineer,  in  a steam-boat,  attended  by  the  schooner  at- 
tached to  the  naval  establishment  at  Kingston,  passed  through 
the  locks,  and  spreading  their  sails  to  the  breeze,  sped  their 
course  through  a tract  hitherto  unvisited  by  any  bark  except  the 
canoe  of  the  Indian  or  solitary  settler,  but  destined  to  be  the 
chief  channel  of  communication  between  the  almost  boundless 
and  fruitful  countries  in  the  interior  of  North-west  America 
and  Europe,  and  in  future  times,  perhaps,  no  small  part  of  the 
productions  of  China  and  the  eastern  shores  of  Asia  may  pass 
this  way  to  England. 


48 


IMPROVED  NAVIGATION. 


from  the  United  States,  should  we,  at  any  future 
time,  be  placed  in  a hostile  position  to  them. 

The  River  Ottawa  is  navigable  for  steam-boats 
and  schooners  from  La  Chine,  nine  miles  from 
Montreal,  to  By  Town,  * which  is  about  130  miles 
from  Montreal.  It  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Ottawa, 
near  the  entrance  of  the  Rideau  river  into  river 
Ottawa.  Here  the  canal  commences  and  runs  in  a 
south  and  south-west  direction  to  Kingston  on 
Lake  Ontario.  The  locks  throughout  are  calculated 
to  admit  the  schooners  that  navigate  the  lakes, 
which  will  be  towed  through  by  steam-boats. 

When  this  canal  is  in  full  operation,  its  effects  in 
reducing  to  a comparative  trifle  the  cost  of  trans- 
port to  the  upper  country  will  be  felt  in  every  article 
of  bulk  or  weight ; while  the  risk  attending  the 
conveyance  of  produce  down  the  rapids,  at  present 
encumbered  with  an  insurance  of  1 \ to  2 per  cent., 
will  be  avoided,  and  the  advance  of  the  Upper  Pro- 
vince must  be  greatly  accelerated  thereby. 


GOVERNMENT,  LAWS,  AND  REVENUES  OF 
LOWER  CANADA. 

The  King  of  England  is  sovereign  of  Canada,  under 
the  limitations  of  the  laws  of  Great  Britain,  and  by 
the  capitulations  entered  into  when  the  province 

* With  the  exception  of  some  rapids  which  occur  near  the 
township  of  Grenville,  and  to  avoid  which  a short  canal  has 
been  cut,  called  the  Grenville  Canal. 


LAWS. 


49 


passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English.  The  legisla- 
tive authority  resides  in  the  King,  who  acts  by  his 
governor,  and  the  two  Houses  of  Parliament,  who 
alone  have  power  of  levying  taxes  on  the  province. 

The  Upper  House,  or  Legislative  Council,  are 
nominated  for  life,  by  the  King,  out  of  the  class  of 
persons  ofthe  most  wealth,  talent,  and  importance, 
whether  native  or  European. 

The  Lower  House,  or  House  of  Representatives, 
are  chosen  by  the  freeholders  of  40s.  and  upwards, 
for  the  counties  ; and  5 1.  freeholders  or  10 1.  house- 
holders in  the  cities  and  towns.  They  are  elected 
every  four  years  at  least,  and  must  be  called  together 
every  twelve  months,  and  are  empowered  to  make 
laws  for  the  4 peace,  welfare,  and  good  government 
of  the  province/  No  disabilities  or  disqualifications 
exist  on  account  of  any  religious  opinions.  The 
lands  held  by  Roman  Catholics  pay  a twenty-sixth 
part  of  the  grain  raised,  towards  the  support  of  their 
curate,  and  are  subject  to  assessments  for  the  build- 
ing and  repairing  of  churches  and  parsonages. 
Protestants  are  not  subject  to  any  rate  or  charge  for 
the  support  of  church  or  clergy.  At  the  conquest, 
the  estates  of  the  Jesuits  were  confiscated  to  the  use 
of,  and  promotion  of,  education  ; and  the  fund  thus 
created  is  annually  augmented  by  grants  from  the 
Legislature. 

The  laws  of  Lower  Canada  are  a mixture  of  the 
Acts  of  the  British  Parliament,  which  extend  to  the 

D 


50 


TAXES. 


Colonies,  and  the  laws  of  France,  as  they  existed  at 
the  conquest  in  1759.  The  criminal  law  is  the  same 
as  in  England ; and  is  administered  in  the  same 
way  as  here,  by  judges,  justices,  &c.  &c. 

There  is  no  direct  tax  in  Lower  Canada,  except 
half  a dollar  annually  on  the  male  population  for  the 
repair  of  the  roads.  A duty  of  2\  per  cent,  is  paid 
on  all  imports  from  England ; and  goods  from  any 
other  part  of  the  world  pay  the  same  duties  they 
would  be  liable  to  pay  in  England,  except  colonial 
produce,  wines  and  spirits,  which  pay  only  a trifling 
comparative  amount. 

A part  of  the  duties  is  apportioned  to  the  Upper 
Province.  The  share  of  the  Lower  Province  is 
sufficient  for  all  the  expenses  of  government,  making 
of  new  roads  and  bridges,  canals,  and  other  public 
works,  grants  for  the  erection  and  support  of  schools, 
aid  to  hospitals,  &c.  &c. 


MONEY  AND  BANKS. 

The  dollar,  with  its  divisions,  is  the  principal  circu- 
lating coin  of  Lower  Canada,  and  is  called  five  shil- 
lings. English  gold  coins  pass  freely,  but  their 
value  is  fluctuating.  French  or  English  crowns 
pass  for  5s.  6d.,  and  an  English  shilling  for  Is.  2d. 
As  to  the  copper  coin  in  circulation,  it  is  composed 
of  all  sorts  and  descriptions — old  halfpence,  pocket- 
pieces,  cents,  and,  in  fact,  anything  which  will  count 


MONEY  AND  BANKS. 


51 


one,  and  is  made  of  metal.  Accounts  are  kept  in 
pounds,  shillings,  and  pence,  Halifax  currency,  of 
four  dollars  to  the  pound. 

It  may  here  be  observed,  that  if  cash  is  taken,  it 
is  better  to  buy  Spanish  dollars  in  England,  than 
take  gold  either  to  Canada  or  the  United  States*. 

There  are  but  two  banks  in  Lower  Canada — at 
Montreal  and  Quebec  ; they  issue  notes  of  one  dol- 
lar and  upwards.  These  banks  are  certainly  not 
adequate  to  the  wants  of  the  extended  and  extending 
commercial  transactions  of  the  province ; but  great 
fear  exists  among  the  Canadians,  lest  the  multipli- 
cation of  banks  and  a paper  circulation  should  en- 
tirely beat  the  Spanish  dollar  (of  which  they  are 
very  fond)  out  of  the  market,  as  it  has  done  in  the 
United  States : but,  unfortunately,  they  do  not  see 
that  there  is  an  evil  in  too  few,  as  well  as  too  many 
facilities  to  trade  and  enterprise ; and  there  can  be 
no  doubt  that  two  banks  for  Lower  Canada  falls 
nearly  as  short  of  the  legitimate  calls  of  the  mercan- 
tile affairs  of  the  province,  as  seventy  banks  exceed 
those  of  the  State  of  New  York. 

The  population  of  Lower  Canada  is  chiefly  com- 
posed of  the  descendants  of  the  French  settlers  in 
it  at  its  conquest ; but  their  proportion  to  the  whole 

* Messrs.  Smith,  Payne,  and  Smith,  of  Mansion-House- 
street,  London,  will  receive  sums  of  20/.  and  upwards,  and  give 
an  order  on  the  Bank  at  Montreal,  by  which  the  risk  of  taking 
specie  may  be  avoided,  and  some  small  profit  arising  from  the 
rate  of  exchange  is  also  secured. 

D 2 


52 


POPULATION. 


is  gradually  diminishing.  Ten  years  ago  they  were 
computed  at  seven-eighths  ; now  they  scarcely  ex- 
ceed six-eighths.  They  are  almost  exclusively  con- 
fined to  the  old  parts,  and  are  much  attached  to 
their  country.  The  great  mass  of  them  are  agricul- 
turists ; and  perhaps  there  is  not  on  the  face  of  the 
globe  a happier  people,  or  more  contented.  In- 
deed, this  last  feature  in  their  character  is  productive 
of  consequences  which  in  time,  it  is  to  be  feared,  will 
sadly  interfere  with  their  happiness.  While  the 
Europeans,  by  whom  the  townships  are  settling, 
avail  themselves  of  all  the  light  thrown  upon  the 
science  of  agriculture  by  modern  discoveries,  the 
Canadian  jogs  on  in  the  way  practised  for  one  or 
two  centuries,  even  in  some  cases  against  his  better 
judgment. 

They  are  polite  and  obliging  to  all  who  treat  them 
with  respect,  and  particularly  the  English,  whom  they 
prefer  to  the  Irish  or  Scotch  ; but  the  Americans  are 
not  at  all  in  favour  with  them.  The  French  lan- 
guage is  the  most  prevalent  among  them,  although 
in  the  large  towns  most  of  the  shop-keepers  under- 
stand English. 


53 


UPPER  CANADA. 

Boil — Climate — Towns — Rivers — Canals , 8fe „ 

That  part  of  the  province  of  Upper  Canada  which 
is  already  surveyed  and  laid  out,  is  the  country  lying 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  com- 
mencing about  65  miles  above  Montreal,  and  run- 
ning along  the  north  side  of  the  lakes  Ontario  and 
Erie,  for  about  570  miles,  with  an  average  depth 
of  60  miles. 

All  competent  judges,  both  English,  Canadian, 
and  American,  who  have  given  an  opinion  of  the 
character  of  this  large  tract,  concur  in  declaring  that 
it  will  suffer  nothing  by  a comparison  with  any  tract 
of  equal  extent  on  the  continent  of  America. 

The  province  is  divided  into  eleven  districts,  and 
these  are  again  divided  into  twenty-seven  counties, 
which  are  sub-divided  into  291  townships,  averaging 
60,000  acres  each;  being,  all  together,  about  thirteen 
millions  of  acres.  But  this  is  not  by  any  means  all 
the  land  capable  of  cultivation ; a great  extent  of 
country  between  lake  Huron  and  the  Ottawa  river  is 
still  unsurveyed. 

The  country  to  Kingston  presents  a surface  not 
far  from  level ; it  is,  however,  elevated  considerably 
above  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  throughout  its  extent 
is  interspersed  with  small  lakes  and  rivers,  which 
fail  either  into  the  St.  Lawrence  or  the  Ottawa,  and 


54 


SOIL- — CLIMATE. 


are  most  of  them  capable  of  being  made  navigable 
for  boats. 

From  Kingston,  the  face  of  the  country  is  more 
diversified  with  gentle  hills,  but  none  of  any  magni- 
tude occur  till  the  western  end  of  Lake  Ontario  is 
reached,  where  a chain  of  hills  commences  at  Bur- 
lington Bay,  and,  with  the  Queenston  heights,  tra- 
verse the  borders  of  the  River  Niagara  to  Lake  Erie. 
Along  Lake  Erie,  no  rise  of  any  consequence  oc- 
curs. Lake  Simcoe  is  elevated  considerably  above 
Lake  Ontario,  but  it  is  very  gradual,  and  the  country 
around  it  considered  excellent. 

The  climate  of  this  extended  tract  differs,  as  we 
well  know  it  does,  in  a space  not  half  as  large,  east 
and  west,  viz.,  between  Suffolk  and  Cornwall,  and  as 
great  a space  north  and  south,  viz.,  between  York- 
shire and  Dorsetshire,  but  not  to  the  same  extent. 
The  seasons  are  much  more  marked  than  ours. 
The  summers  are  very  warm,  but  seldom  sultry, 
probably  for  the  same  reasons  that  the  winters, 
though  colder  than  ours,  are  not  so  much  felt,  be- 
cause the  air  is  so  much  drier  than  it  is  in  England, 
or,  indeed,  anywhere  near  the  sea. 

The  frost  generally  sets  in  about  the  beginning  of 
the  year,  and  continues,  without  much  intermission, 
for  eight  or  ten  weeks  ; it  then  breaks,  and,  in  two 
or  three  more,  the  winter  has  completely  passed 
away,  and  is  followed  by  warm  rains,  which  give 
place  to  fine  settled  weather  till  after  harvest  in 
August,  when  some  rain  comes  generally  for  two  or 


CLIMATE. 


55 


three  days  together,  and  it  is  cool.  In  October 
fine  warm  weather  succeeds,  which  lasts  about  a 
month,  and  is  called  the  Indian  summer.  Then 
follow  rain  and  snow  till  the  frost  sets  in. 

The  large  lakes  are  not  frozen  except  near  the 
sides,  and  the  snow  and  ice  give  the  same  facilities 
for  inland  traffic  as  in  Lower  Canada ; which  is  of 
the  utmost  value,  where  roads,  capable  of  sustaining 
heavy  loads,  cannot  be  supposed  yet  to  exist,  and 
would  be  hailed  as  a blessing  by  many  parts  of  the 
United  States,  where  the  snow  does  not  lie,  and  the 
expense  of  reaching  a navigable  river  over  their 
roads  is  so  great,  that  their  produce  is  scarcely 
worth  anything. 

The  general  salubrity  of  Upper  Canada  is  not 
questioned.  There  are  no  swamps  of  any  consider- 
able size ; and  if  the  workmen  on  the  Rideau  Canal 
were  attacked  by  fever  and  ague,  it  is  too  much  to 
attribute  such  attacks  to  the  climate,  when,  perhaps, 
it  was  chiefly  induced  by  their  intemperate  habits — 
great  numbers  of  them  being  the  lower  class  of  Irish, 
who  find  spirituous  liquors  so  abundant  and  cheap, 
that  they  know  not  where  to  fix  bounds  to  their  in- 
dulgence ; and  it  must  also  be  allowed  that  their 
occupation  was  such,  that,  without  care,  they  wrere 
scarce  likely  to  escape  such  a visitation. 

On  the  borders  of  the  lakes  there  are  numerous 
bays  or  inlets,  which,  at  some  future  time,  will  be 
the  most  valuable  portions  of  the  province ; but, 
till  they  are  in  some  degree  banked  and  cleared. 


56 


CLIMATE. 


offer  some  little  lodgment  for  the  water,  which  is 
not  conducive  to  the  health  of  those  residing  near 
such  spots : but  these  are  comparatively  of  small 
extent,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  shores  of  the  River 
and  Lake  Ontario  on  the  Canada  side  being  gene- 
rally very  considerably  elevated  above  the  water; 
and  it  may  be  asked  if  England  is  considered  un- 
healthy, because  the  people  in  the  Lincolnshire  fens 
or  the  Essex  Hundreds  have  the  ague.  It  is  the 
undisguised  opinion  of  all  medical  men  the  author 
had  an  opportunity  of  conversing  with,  that  a heal- 
thier country,  upon  the  whole,  is  not  to  be  found 
than  Canada  throughout  its  extent,  and  every  suc- 
ceeding year  must  add  to  its  salubrity,  by  the  clear- 
ing of  the  forests,  and  draining,  and  making  waters 
navigable  which  are  now  only  partially  so 

As  the  whole  of  the  Upper  Province  is  of  compa- 
rative recent  settlement,  land  may  be  obtained  in 

* The  notoriously  unhealthy  parts  chiefly  occur  on  the  line 
of  the  Rideau  Canal,  but  particularly  between  the  Rideau  Lake 
and  Lake  Ontario  ; also  the  lands  between  the  Bay  of  Quinte 
and  the  Lake ; likewise  some  marshy  tracts  at  each  end  of  Lake 
Erie  : but  all  these  together  are  an  inconsiderable  portion  of  the 
province.  It  is  not,  however,  for  a moment  denied  that  pru- 
dent precautions  are  necessary  to  meet  the  change  which  an 
atmosphere,  perhaps  essentially  different  from  that  of  England, 
may  effect  in  the  human  system.  The  newly-arrived  should 
avoid  exposure  to  the  mid-day  sun  as  much  as  possible,  nor 
should  they  be  out  after  sun-down  (in  Yankee  phrase).  These 
precautions,  and  the  judicious  use  of  the  Jesuits’  bark,  or  the 
sulphate  of  quinine,  in  doses  of  one  grain,  to  fortify  the  system 
against  attack,  or  restore  its  tone  after  attack,  will  most  likely 
secure  as  good  a share  of  health  as  it  is  the  ordinary  lot  of  man 
to  enjoy. 


RIVERS  AND  CANALS. 


57 


almost  any  of  the  townships  into  which  it  is  divided  ; 
and  the  chief  criterion  of  value  is  to  be  found  in  the 
vicinity  to  a large  town  or  a navigable  water , the 
principal  of  which  will  be  hereafter  mentioned. 

The  main  road  of  the  province  is  a continuation  of 
the  road  from  Montreal,  at  Coteau  du  Lac,  along  the 
banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Lake  Ontario  to 
Dundas,  at  its  western  extremity  ; from  thence  it 
runs  nearly  in  a straight  line  inland  to  Chatham,  near 
Lake  St.  Clair.  This  road  is  called  the  Dundas- 
street.  Yonge-street,  leading  from  York  to  Lake 
Simcoe,  thirty-six  miles,  is  a fine  spacious  road. 
There  is  also  a road  along  the  River  Niagara  and  Lake 
Erie  to  Sandwich,  on  Lake  St.  Clair ; and  from 
thence  to  Chatham : the  greater  part  of  this  last  is 
called  the  Talbot  road. 

A road  is  making  through  the  Huron  tract  to 
Goderich,  which  will  be  connected  with  the  last- 
mentioned  road  at  or  near  Port  Talbot  on  Lake 
Erie.  Besides  these,  most  ample  provision  has  been 
made  in  laying  out  the  townships  for  main  roads, 
and  also  for  smaller  ones,  intersecting  each  other  at. 
short  intervals. 

The  principal  rivers  and  canals  will  be  noticed  as 
they  occur,  and  also  the  canals  now  in  progress  ; 
but,  in  addition  to  these,  the  whole  country,  except 
the  most  western  parts,  is  interspersed  with  rivers 
and  waters  capable  of  being  joined  one  to  the  other, 
and  forming  communications  in  every  direction;  and 

d 5 


58 


ROtlTE  ALONG 


likewise,  by  their  difference  of  elevation  and  inex- 
haustible supply,  may  be  applied  to  milling  purposes 
to  an  almost  indefinite  extent. 

ROUTE  ALONG  THE  UPPER  PROVINCE. 

CORNWALL, 

in  the  eastern  district,  seventy-eight  miles  above 
Montreal,  is  the  first  town  of  consideration  arrived 
at  in  Upper  Canada.  Its  situation  is  favourable 
for  the  reception  of  the  produce  of  the  country 
between  it  and  Prescot,  along  the  line  of  rapids,  and 
supplying  it  with  goods.  The  county  of  Glengarry, 
on  the  borders  of  which  it  is  situate,  is  in  a high 
state  of  cultivation,  and  is  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing in  the  province. 

The  adjoining  counties  of  Stormont  and  Dundas 
are  also  in  a forward  state,  and  many  villages  are 
scattered  about.  The  rapids  between  this  town 
and  Prescot  have  been  surveyed,  to  ascertain  the 
practicability  of  overcoming  the  obstacles  by  lock- 
ing, &c.  ; and  sanguine  expectations  are  enter- 
tained that  the  desired  improvements  can  be  made 
at  an  easy  expense,  which  will  add  greatly  to  the 
value  of  property  in  this  district. 

PRESCOT, 

fifty  miles  above  Cornwall,  in  the  Johnstown 
district,  is  a town  of  great  trade.  The  various 
vessels  which  traverse  Lake  Ontario  here  deposit 


THE  UPPER  PROVINCE. 


59 


their  cargoes,  to  be  transported  down  the  ra- 
pids to  Montreal  in  boats.  The  forwarding  mer- 
chants (carriers)  have  large  stores  or  warehouses 
for  the  reception  of  the  goods  proceeding  upwards 
or  downwards,  and  for  the  supply  of  the  adjacent 
country.  Schooners  and  Steam-boats  are  built  here 
to  a large  extent : of  the  latter,  the  Great  Britain , 
completed  last  year,  is  a most  superb  boat  in  all  re- 
spects, of  280  horse-power,  and  700  tons  measure- 
ment. Coaches,  and  the  light  four-wheeled  carriages 
in  universal  use  in  America,  and  called  waggons, 
are  made  in  great  numbers  at  Prescot ; and  all  the 
useful  and  necessary  mechanical  trades  both  do  and 
would  flourish  here  if  greatly  multiplied.  Good 
stone  is  found  in  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood, 
of  which  the  principal  houses  and  stores  are  built. 
There  is  a very  good  inn  here,  where  travellers  wait 
for  the  steam-boats  which  daily  start  from  hence  to 
York  and  Niagara.  In  1831  there  were  seven  or 
eight  constantly  plying  with  passengers  and  goods 
from  April  to  November.  Immediately  opposite 
Prescot,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  which  is 
about  a mile  wide,  is  the  American  town  of  Ogdens- 
burg,  of  rising  importance.  Between  these  towns  a 
constant  communication  is  kept  up  by  a small  steam- 
boat and  sailing  boats,  and  the  traffic  from  one  to 
the  other  is  very  considerable  and  increasing. 

Kingston  is  sixty-two  miles  from  Prescot.  No- 
thing can  exceed  the  wild  luxuriance  of  the  shore  on 
the  Canada  side,  which  is  most  thickly  covered  with 


60 


BROCKVILLE — GANNANOQIJI. 


hard  timber.  The  latter  part  of  the  way  the  river 
expands,  and  is  called  the  Lake  of  the  Thousand 
Islands.  A few  of  them  are  of  some  hundred  acres 
extent,  and  are  covered  with  hard  timber.  Altoge- 
ther, this  is  a most  enchanting  sail. 

BROCKVILLE. 

The  steam-boats  call  at  Brockville,  twelve  miles 
from  Prescot.  This  is  a very  delightful  and  thriving 
town,  and  chiefly  owes  its  prosperity  to  the  settle- 
ment in  it  of  persons  of  some  property,  who  are 
engaged  in  the  purchase  and  sale  of  wheat,  and  pro- 
duce generally,  of  the  province  and  the  opposite 
State  of  New  York. 

The  Court-house,  church,  and  most  of  the  houses 
are  built  in  a very  substantial  and  handsome  style. 
It  sends  a member  to  the  House  of  Representatives. 

A large  grist-mill  is  erected  a few  miles  distant ; 
and  every  circumstance  in  this  town  and  neighbour- 
hood gives  proof  of  the  sure  and  profitable  reward 
attending  on  industrious  enterprise  in  Canada. 

GANNANOQUI 

is  thirty-two  miles  from  Brockville.  It  is  seated 
on  a river  of  the  same  name,  which  flows  from  a 
lake  not  far  back,  and  here  falls  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  is  a never-failing  stream,  with  a fall 
of  upwards  of  twenty  feet.  This  power  is  employed 
to  work~several  extensive  saw  and  grist  mills,  all  in 
full  and  profitable  employment.  Some  other  mecha- 


KINGSTON  HARBOUR. 


61 


nical  operations  are  performed  by  the  use  of  ma- 
chinery driven  by  the  river,  and  the  power  is  avail- 
able to  a much  greater  extent  than  now  exercised. 

A tan-yard  and  other  useful  establishments  are  in 
a flourishing  state.  The  town  possesses  most  ex- 
cellent wharfage. 

From  hence  to  Kingston  is  eighteen  miles.  At 
the  entrance  into  the  Lake  Ontario  are  two  large 
islands,  within  the  line  of  demarcation,  separating 
Canada  from  the  United  States.  Wolfe  Island  is 
twenty  miles  long,  and  about  six  wide.  Amherst 
Island  is  about  ten  miles  long,  and  six  wide.  These 
two  islands  lay  opposite  Kingston,  and  form  pleasing 
rests  for  the  eye  in  passing  over  the  expanse  of  the 
lake. 

The  harbour  of  Kingston  is  accessible  to  vessels 
drawing  fifteen  feet  water.  At  its  entrance  it  is 
about  a quarter  of  a mile  wide  ; it  then  enlarges 
into  a fine  bay,  at  the  end  of  which  the  Rideau 
Canal  commences.  The  entrance  of  this  harbour  is 
defended  by  batteries,  and  also  the  fort  on  Point 
Henry — a most  commanding  situation — all  of  which 
are  undergoing  reparation  with  the  stone  that 
abounds  in  the  immediate  vicinity ; and  the  true 
policy  of  so  doing  must  at  once  be  seen  by  reflect- 
ing on  the  importance  of  preserving  a free  commu- 
nication with  the  Lower  Province  and  England,  by 
the  canal,  which  cannot  be  interrupted  without  re- 
ducing these  works,  or  taking  military  possession  of 
the  country. 


62 


KINGSTON. 


Lake  Ontario,  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  which 
Kingston  is  placed,  may  be  called  a fresh-water  sea, 
about  170  miles  long,  by  60  miles  wide.  The 
schooners  that  navigate  this  sea  are  from  40  to  200 
tons  burden;  and  there  are  ten  steam-boats  on  the 
Canada  side ; all  of  them  carry  goods,  and  take 
vessels  in  tow. 


KINGSTON. 

Kingston  holds  the  rank  of  first  commercial  town  in 
the  province,  and  its  situation  will  enable  it  always 
to  maintain  that  rank.  The  ground  on  which  it  is 
built  is  considerably  elevated  above  the  lake,  with  its 
surface  gently  sloping  towards  it.  The  court-house, 
one  of  the  churches,  barracks,  and  most  of  the 
houses  and  stores  of  the  merchants  and  persons 
connected  with  the  navy-yard  and  garrison,  are  of 
stone  or  brick,  and  the  footways  of  the  principal 
streets  are  paved  with  stone.  The  market  is  well 
supplied  with  all  the  essentials  and  many  of  the 
non-essentials.  The  former  are  to  be  obtained  at  a 
cheap  rate. 

Schooners  are  built  here,  and  manufactories  of 
soap  and  candles  are  established.  A large  brewery 
and  a pottery  is  close  by.  Hatting  and  all  the  minor 
trades  of  utility  flourish,  and  would  do  so  if  ten 
times  as  numerous.  An  act  has  just  passed  for 
establishing  a bank  here,  which  will  contribute  much 
to  its  advancement,  and  is  a measure  most  impera- 
tively called  for  by  the  increasing  trade,  which  will 


KINGSTON. 


63 


soon  receive  so  considerable  an  addition  by  the  re- 
moval of  the  chief  obstacle  to  the  rapid  advance- 
ment of  the  Upper  Province,  viz.,  the  cost  of  trans- 
port upwards,  and  the  risk  of  the  downward  pas 
sage,  both  of  which  will  be  removed  by  the  Ptideau 
Canal. 

Navy  Bay,  on  the  sides  of  which  are  the  esta- 
blishments that  enabled  the  British  successfully  to 
dispute  the  command  of  the  Lake  with  the  Ame- 
ricans in  the  last  war,  is  formed  by  two  peninsulas. 
Point  Frederic  divides  the  bay  from  the  harbour; 
and,  on  the  other,  Point  Henry,  stands  the  fort,  which 
completely  protects  the  bay  and  harbour. 

Kingston  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  regiment  in 
charge  of  these  and  other  forts  at  this  end  of  the 
Lake. 

The  immediate  environs  of  the  town  are  not  very 
fruitful,  but  several  handsome  houses  and  grounds 
enliven  the  scene. 

An  American  steam-boat  plies  between  this  town 
and  Oswego  ; from  whence  coaches  run  daily  to 
Utica  on  the  Erie  canal.  This  last  place  is  distant 
from  Albany  ninety-six  miles,  from  which  a steam- 
boat in  twelve  hours  wil  reach  the  city  of  New 
York. 

A considerable  intercourse  is  also  maintained  with 
Rochester  and  other  towns  on  the  southern  shore  of 
the  lake  by  schooners. 

The  population  of  Kingston  is  not  far  short  of 


64 


KINGSTON. 


6000,  and  during  the  summer  this  is  exceeded.  It 
returns  a member  to  the  provincial  Parliament. 

From  Kingston  to  York  there  are  two  routes — 
one  by  steam-boat  up  the  Lake,  calling  at*  Coburg 
and  Port  Hope ; but  as  the  boats  keep  out  from 
land,  little  is  offered  by  this  route  beyond  the  plea- 
sure of  a fine  sail  (all  the  steam-boats  on  the  lake 
carry  sail),  and  a superior  degree  of  comfort  and 
ease.  The  other  route  is  by  steam-boat  up  the  Bay 
of  Quinte,  65  miles,  and  the  remainder  of  the  way 
100  miles  by  coach.  This  bay  enters  the  lake  a little 
to  the  west  of  Kingston,  and  is  navigable  through  its 
whole  extent  for  schooners  and  steam-boats.  The 
country  is  in  a high  state  of  cultivation,  the  soil 
most  excellent,  and  the  settlers  generally  of  a supe- 
rior order.  The  towns  of  Bath  and  Belleville  are 
finely  situate  on  the  borders  of  the  bay,  and  are  fast 
increasing  in  wealth  and  importance.  From  this 
bay  there  is  a succession  of  small  lakes  and  rivers, 
by  which  a communication  may  be  effected  with 
Lake  Simcoe  ; and  a bill  was  passed  last  session,  to 
carry  this  into  operation,  which  will  increase  the  value 
of  the  district,  and  extend  the  present  limits  of  the 
province  in  that  direction. 

The  road  from  the  Bay  of  Quinte  to  York  lies  not 
far  from  the  shore  of  the  lake,  and  affords  travellers 
by  this  route  an  opportunity  of  judging  of  the  soil 
and  country.  The  road,  in  parts,  is  rather  rough, 
but  the  coaches  are  adapted  to  them,  and  accidents 


COBURG. 


65 


of  a serious  nature  are  quite  as  rare  as  in  England : 
and  here  it  may  be  remarked,  that  the  Canadian 
horses,  though  not  deficient  in  spirit,  are,  to  a re- 
markable degree,  under  the  control  of  the  drivers. 

COBURG 

is  the  first  town  of  importance  arrived  at.  A fine 
port  is  here  forming,  by  piers  run  out  into  the  bay 
formed  by  the  lake.  It  has  a court-house  of 
stone,  church,  chapels,  and  numerous  houses  and 
stores  substantially  built.  Some  manufactories  have 
been  established,  and  more  were  about  to  be  formed 
on  an  extended  scale ; and  no  doubt  can  be  enter- 
tained of  Coburg  becoming  a place  of  importance. 
The  cast  of  its  inhabitants,  and  also  those  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  it,  is  above  the  usual  standard 
of  society  : among  them  are  many  half-pay  officers 
and  their  families,  altogether  forming  a circle  little 
inferior  to  the  small  towns  in  England,  and  much 
superior  to  the  more  remote  villages  in  England  and 
Wales. 

PORT  HOPE. 

About  seven  miles  to  the  west  of  Coburg  is  Port 
Hope,  situate  by  a river  which  falls  into  the  lake. 
The  fall  is  used  for  working  some  mills,  and  is 
capable  of  much  greater  use.  It  is  a port  of  entry, 
and  considerable  traffic  is  carried  on  between  these 
two  towns  and  Rochester,  which  is  nearly  [opposite. 
It  has  some  substantial  houses,  &c.  &c. 


66 


YORK. 


From  hence  to  York,  about  sixty  miles,  the  la^e 
is  broken  by  a succession  of  beautiful  bays,  each 
destined,  at  some  future  day,  to  be  the  seat  of  a town 
from  whence  the  produce  of  the  country  can  be  sent 
to  Europe  with  only  one  transhipment. 

YORK. 

York,  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada,  is  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  western  extremity  of  the  Lake,  which 
is  here  about  thirty  miles  wide.  The  harbour  in 
front  of  the  town  is  a spacious  basin,  nearly  circu- 
lar, formed  by  a neck  of  land  running  out  into  the 
lake,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is  a lighthouse. 
The  dimensions  of  this  basin  are  two  miles  by  one 
and  three-quarters,  and  the  depth  of  water  over  most 
part  of  it  is  from  three  to  five  fathoms.  Two  com- 
modious piers  have  been  formed  for  the  embarkation 
and  landing  of  goods  and  passengers,  and  others  are 
about  to  be  built.  The  streets  are  of  great  width. 
King-street,  the  principal  one,  is  partly  paved,  and 
the  remainder  is  to  be  done  speedily.  In  this  street 
are  the  court-house,  prison,  and  church  ; the  two 
former  of  brick,  and  the  latter  now  rebuilding  of 
brick  and  stone.  Many  of  the  houses  in  this 
street  are  brick,  which  is  taking  the  place  of  wood. 
The  hospital  is  a large  building  of  brick.  The  col- 
lege, with  eight  houses  for  the  masters,  and  the 
Parliament  House,  with  extensive  wings,  containing 
offices  for  the  various  departments  of  the  state,  were 
finished  in  1830  and  1831.  They  are  of  brick  ; the 


YORK. 


67 


latter  with  stone  enrichments,  and,  for  size  and  simple 
grandeur,  have  but  few  equals  in  America.  There 
is  also  a Catholic  church,  and  five  chapels  of  various 
denominations,  all  of  brick.  In  the  environs  of 
York  are  many  houses  and  gardens  that  would  be 
considered  ornaments  to  the  environs  of  any  town 
in  England. 

The  market  is  well  supplied,  but,  from  the  demand 
being  large,  provisions  are  rather  higher  here  than  in 
other  parts  of  the  province. 

Besides  the  college  already  mentioned,  in  which 
the  course  of  education  is  much  the  same  as  in  the 
public  schools  in  England,  from  whence  the  masters 
are  sent,  an  University  is  to  be  established : the  mo- 
ney for  building  it  has  been  voted,  and  the  ground 
marked  out  about  a mile  from  the  town.  The  pro- 
fessors are  to  be  appointed  by  the  University  of  Ox- 
ford, and  will  be  empowered  to  confer  degrees  and 
grant  diplomas. 

As  the  seat  of  government,  York  is,  of  course,  the 
place  of  residence  of  all  the  public  functionaries  ; 
and,  from  this  cause,  numbers  of  officers  on  half-pay 
and  others  of  superior  education  have  settled  in  the 
county  of  York,  and  the  society  differs  but  little  from 
that  of  the  large  inland  towns  of  England. 

Every  town  of  consideration  in  the  province  has 
one  or  more  newspapers,  in  general  well  conducted. 
At  York  there  are  five  or  six  published  every  week. 
It  has  also  philosophical,  literary,  and  agricultural 
societies,  and  a news-room  well  furnished  with  the 


68 


YORK. 


principal  English  and  American  newspapers  and 
periodicals,  maps,  &c. 

The  harbour  of  York  is  defended  by  a fort,  which 
commands  its  mouth,  and  is  the  head-quarters  of  the 
regiment  in  charge  of  the  forts  on  the  Niagara  fron- 
tier and  the  lakes  Huron  and  Erie. 

The  river  Credit,  which  enters  Lake  Ontario, 
about  fifteen  miles  west  of  York,  is  a fine  stream 
running  through  a fruitful  district.  The  improve- 
ment of  the  navigation  of  this  river  has  long  been  in 
contemplation;  and  in  the  session  of  1830-1,  a bill 
passed  the  legislature  to  give  effect  to  those  inten- 
tions, by  which  it  will  be  rendered  of  great  value  to 
the  country  through  which  it  runs. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  York  there  is  some 
extent  of  inferior  land,  sandy,  with  pine  forests, 
interspersed,  however,  with  spots  of  a different  na- 
ture. As  the  land  rises,  which  it  does  from  York  to 
Lake  Simcoe  almost  imperceptibly,  the  pine  gives 
place  to  oak  and  the  other  hard  woods.  Lake  Sim- 
coe is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  thirty  miles 
by  twenty,  including  Cooke’s  and  Kempenfelt’s  bays. 
It  is  elevated  very  considerably  above  Lake  Huron, 
with  which  it  communicates  by  the  River  Severn, 
at  present  not  navigable,  but  reported  capable  of 
being  made  so.  The  projected  navigation  between 
the  Bay  of  Quinte  and  Lake  Simcoe,  before  alluded 
to,  will  much  increase  the  prosperity  of  the  settlers 
round  the  latter  lake,  and  it  is  rapidly  settling. 

The  Canada  Company’s  settlement  of  Guelph  is 


WELLAND  CANAL. 


69 


about  sixty  miles  west  of  York,  and  near  thirty  from 
Dundas,  the  nearest  port  on  the  Lake  Ontario,  or 
rather  Burlington  Bay,  as  the  western  end  of  the 
Lake  is  called.  Not  far  from  Dundas  are  the  towns 
of  Hamilton  and  Ancaster.  The  whole  country 
round  Burlington  Bay  and  along  the  Niagara  River 
to  Lake  Erie  is  well  settled  and  well  cultivated,  and 
has  numerous  villages  and  good  roads.  The  cli- 
mate is  delightful.  Peaches  are  here  produced  on 
standard  trees,  of  a size  and  flavour  seldom  seen 
even  in  the  most  favoured  part  of  England  with  the 
advantages  of  walls,  &c.  &c.  : other  fruits  and  pro- 
duce of  course  flourish  in  an  equal  degree. 

WELLAND  CANAL. 

The  chief  seat  of  business  at  this  end  of  the  lake  will 
of  necessity  be  near  the  mouth  of  the  canal ; and 
Port  Dalhousie  will  doubtless  be  the  principal  depot 
for  goods  and  produce.  This  canal  is  rather  more 
than  forty  miles  long,  and  connects  Lake  Erie  with 
Lake  Ontario  : thus  surmounting  the  most  formi- 
dable cataract  in  the  known  world,  viz.,  the  Falls  of 
Niagara.  Like  the  Rideau,  this  canal  is  also  made 
sufficiently  large  for  the  schooners  on  the  lake. 

The  importance  of  this  canal  may,  in  some  mea- 
sure, be  estimated,  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
produce  of  a most  fruitful  country,  with  a coast  of 
nearly  500  miles,  must  seek  a market  through  this 
canal,— to  say  nothing  of  the  immense  produce  of 


70 


WELLAND  CANAL. 


the  American  side  of  the  lake,  and  the  State  of 
Michegan,  a great  part  of  which  will  take  this  route 
as  the  most  advantageous,  the  Americans  having  no 
navigation  for  schooners  farther  east  than  Buffalo, 
and  no  means  of  reaching  Lake  Ontario  but  by  the 
Erie  Canal  and  the  Genesee  River  at  Rochester, 
which  must  be  carried  on  by  small  boats  at  a great 
expense  of  time  and  labour  *. 

The  recent  alteration  of  the  policy  of  the  British 
Government,  in  allowing  the  introduction  of  all 
articles  of  produce  from  the  United  States  into 
Canada  free  of  duty,  will  be  of  incalculable  benefit  to 
Canada  and  also  to  England  ; for,  by  means  of  this 
and  the  other  canal,  the  cost  of  carriage  will  be  so 
reduced,  that  the  British  or  Canadian  merchant  can 
afford  to  give  the  Americans  more  for  their  produce 
than  the  New  York  merchants  could  afford,  and 
at  the  same  time  can  supply  them  with  British  goods 
on  far  more  advantageous  terms,  even  without 
taking  into  account  the  present  enormous  duties, 
which  it  is  generally  admitted  by  them  cannot  be 
reduced  much  below  30  per  cent. 

Another  most  important  feature  in  this  part  of 

* A schooner  and  cargo  can,  by  the  Welland  and  the  Ri- 
deau  canals,  reach  Montreal  in  five  or  six  days  from  Lake 
Erie  ; whereas,  her  cargo  cannot  be  forwarded  to  New  York 
from  Buffalo,  by  the  Erie  Canal  and  the  Hudson,  in  less  than 
twelve  or  thirteen  days,  and  being  twice  shifted.  To  which 
may  be  added,  that  from  causes  not  quite  explained,  yet  known 
to  exist,  the  entrance  of  the  Welland  Canal  is  free  of  ice  three 
weeks  sooner  than  the  Erie  Canal,  and  keeps  open  as  much 
later. 


DISTRICT  OF  NIAGARA. 


71 


the  province  is  the  water  power  to  be  derived  from 
this  canal,  and  which,  in  fact,  may  be  described  as 
unlimited  : the  fall  of  water  is  346  feet,  and  the  sup- 
ply is  inexhaustible.  It  is  not,  perhaps,  too  much  to 
say  that  the  power  here  described  presents  to  this 
district  advantages  for  the  establishment  of  mills 
and  other  manufactories  that  may  in  some  measure 
be  compared  to  the  coal  mines  of  Lancashire,  which 
have  given  such  importance  to  that  portion  of  Eng* 
land.  Many  saw  and  grist  mills  have  already  been 
erected,  and  are  in  operation ; also  a pail  factory, 
turning'lathe,  and  a furnace  near  St.  Catherine’s. 
Carding-machines  and  numerous  others  are  erecting, 
and,  indeed,  in  every  point  of  view,  the  District  of 
Niagara  is  second  in  importance  to  none  in  the  in- 
terior of  America. 

The  prospects  of  increasing  trade  and  intercourse 
(which  the  change  of  policy  before  alluded  to  must 
effect)  are  so  bright,  that  it  is  in  contemplation  to 
construct  a rail-road  from  the  River  Chippewa, 
above  the  Falls  of  Niagara  to  Lake  Ontario,  as  an 
additional  facility  for  conducting  the  increased  busi- 
ness. 

The  expense  of  the  trip  from  Montreal  to  York, 
or  Niagara,  is  about  twenty  dollars,  and  may  be 
performed  in  three  days  and  nights  ; and  the  latter, 
being  spent  on  board  the  steam-boats,  reduces  the 
fatigue  to  almost  nothing.  It  may  be  performed  for 
half  that  price,  or  less,  by  those  who  cannot  afford 
so  much. 


72 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


Proceeding  along  the  river  Niagara,  through  the 
town  of  Queenstown,  the  road  leads  close  by  the 
stupendous  and  magnificent  Falls,  which  have  long 
held  so  conspicuous  a place  in  the  enumeration 
of  objects  worthy  the  contemplation  of  all  ad- 
mirers of  the  sublimities  of  nature — in  the  de- 
scription of  which  no  two  pens  have,  nor  perhaps 
ever  will  agree,  as  they  are  calculated  to  make 
different  impressions  on  persons  of  various  tempera- 
ment. Suffice  it  to  say,  that  those  whose  souls  are 
capable  of  estimating  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of 
the  scene,  will  be  for  a season  entranced,  and  the 
philosopher  will  be  one  moment  lost  in  the  contem- 
plation of  the  utter  insignificance  of  mere  animal 
strength,  as  compared  with  the  tremendous  power 
before  him,  and  the  next  in  the  satisfactory  reflec- 
tion, that  science  has  enabled  man  to  surmount  this 
formidable  barrier  to  the  progress  of  civilization. 

Fort  Erie  stands  on  the  British  or  Canada  side  of 
the  Niagara  river,  at  its  entrance  from  Lake  Erie, 
opposite  the  American  town  of  Buffalo.  From 
thence  to  Sherbrooke,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Grand 
River  and  Welland  Canal,  is  thirty  miles.  It  is 
quite  a new  town,  called  into  existence  by  the  canal, 
as  Buffalo  has  been  by  the  Erie  Canal.  The  shores 
of  Lake  Erie  on  the  Canadian  side  are  in  a wild 
state,  compared  with  the  country  bordering  on  Lake 
Ontario,  and  present  but  few  towns  of  any  size.  The 
iron  mines  and  works  of  Charlotteville  are  situate 
near  the  spacious  bay  formed  by  a point  of  land 


SANDWICH. 


73 


stretching  into  the  lake  nearly  thirty  miles,  called 
Long  Point.  Almost  opposite  this  point  is  the 
American  town  and  naval  establishment  of  Erie. 

PORT  TALBOT 

is  situate  nearly  midway  on  the  side  of  the  lake. 
The  country  round  it  is  in  a forward  state  of  settle- 
ment ; and  from  thence  is  a road  to  Goderich  in 
the  Huron  tract. 

AMHERSTBURGH 

is  seated  on  the  river  which  connects  Lake  St.  Clair 
with  Lake  Erie,  and  is  the  chief  town  in  this  part 
of  the  province.  It  has  a court-house,  church,  &e., 
and  from  two  to  three  hundred  houses.  The  har- 
bour is  secure  and  commodious,  having!  good  an- 
chorage, with  three  fathoms  and  a half  of  water. 

SANDWICH 

is  nearly  opposite  the  American  town  of  Detroit, 
and  is  almost  as  large  as  Amherstburgh,  with  a good 
harbour.  This  part  is  in  a high  state  of  cultiva- 
tion ; and  for  quality  of  soil  and  beauty  of  climate 
is  not  to  be  surpassed. 

CHATHAM. 

Chatham  is  situate  on  the  river  Thames,  which 
empties  itself  into  Lake  St.  Clair.  It  is  a fine  river, 
and  navigable  to  the  town  by  schooners.  The  town 

E 


74 


LAKES  HURON  AND  SUPERIOR. 


is  rising  in  importance,  and  must  continue  to  do 
so,  from  the  fine  country  around  it. 

LONDON OXFORD. 

These  towns  are  situate  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames, 
far  inland.  Boats  can  go  from  London  to  Lake  St. 
Clair ; and  the  road  from  Chatham  to  Dundas,  on 
Lake  Ontario,  passes  them. 

The  Huron  territory,  the  property  of  the  Canada 
Land  Company,  extends  for  near  sixty  miles  along 
Lake  Huron.  The  town  of  Goderich  in  this  tract 
is  situate  at  the  entrance  of  the  river  Maitland  into 
the  lake  ; and  here  the  Company  have  stores  for  the 
supply  of  the  settlers  upon  their  land.  They  have 
also  erected  saw  and  grist  mills,  to  forward  the 
settlement,  and  have  engaged  to  expend  upwards  of 
40,00QZ.  in  roads  and  other  public  works. 

Lake  Huron  is  much  larger  than  either  of  the 
other  lakes  before-mentioned ; and  by  far  the  greatest 
portion  of  its  shore  is  within  the  British  territory. 
It  is  but  little  known,  except  the  Huron  tract,  and 
that  part  of  it  which  lies  near  Lake  Simcoe.  Those 
parts  are  favourably  spoken  of ; and  no  doubt  can 
exist,  that  when  the  country  east  of  this  lake  is  settled 
(which  will  take  a century  or  so  to  complete),  vast 
tracts  of  fertile  land  may  still  be  found  to  receive  the 
superabundant  population  of  Great  Britain  and  the 
settled  parts  of  Canada. 

Lake  Superior  is  still  larger  than  Lake  Huron ; 
the  shores  do  not  exhibit  the  most  favourable  aspect. 


GOVERNMENT LAWS. 


75 


But  experience  proves  that  this  criterion  is  by  no 
means  infallible  ; and  if  the  reports  of  the  sur- 
veyors are  correct,  is  about  to  receive  a signal  con- 
tradiction in  the  disclosure  of  a fine  country  behind 
the  most  forbidding  exterior,  extending  from  the 
Saguenay  River  nearly  up  to  Quebec. 

From  Lake  Superior,  a chain  of  small  lakes 
lead  to  Lake  Winnepeg,  which  is  nearly  as  large  as 
Lake  Ontario.  On  its  western  shore  appears  a 
smiling  plain,  which  continues  still  west  along  the 
Red  River,  and  is  described  to  be  4 every  way  equal 
in  fertility  to  the  lime- stone  plain  of  Kentucky’— the 
most  envied  spot  in  the  United  States.  Beyond 
this,  the  fur-traders  have  trading  posts  quite  through 
the  Continent  to  the  Pacific  Ocean ; and  the  whole 
distance  can  be  travelled  by  canoe,  excepting  sixty 
or  eighty  miles  across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  About 
five  months  are  consumed  in  travelling  from  Mon- 
treal to  the  Pacific.  The  late  Lord  Selkirk  formed 
a settlement  on  the  Red  River,  which  is  still  believed 
to  be  considerable ; but  their  intercourse  is  chiefly 
with  Hudson’s  Bay,  and  the  fur- traders. 

GOVERNMENT,  LAWS,  REVENUES,  MONEY,  SCHOOLS,' 
AND  CHURCH  ESTABLISHMENT  OF  UPPER  CANADA. 

The  government  of  Upper  Canada  is  vested  in  a 
governor,  who  receives  his  appointment  from  Eng- 
land ; a legislative  council,  the  members  of  which 
are  appointed  by  the  governor  for  life  (under  cer- 

e 2 


76 


SCHOOLS — MONEY. 


tain  restrictions),  and  a House  of  Assembly  elected 
by  the  freeholders  in  the  counties,  and  the  house- 
holders in  towns,  every  four  years  at  least ; which 
last  branch  has  the  same  power  and  control  over  the 
public  purse  as  is  possessed  by  the  House  of  Com- 
mons in  England.  No  taxes  can  be  levied  without 
their  consent,  nor  for  any  purpose  not  relating  to 
the  colony.  All  bills  before  they  have  the  force  of 
laws,  must  receive  the  assent  of  the  two  Houses  and 
the  Governor. 

Both  the  civil  and  criminal  laws  of  Upper  Canada 
are  the  same  as  in  England,  and  are  administered  in 
the  same  way,  and  by  the  same  functionaries,  viz., 
by  judges,  justices,  &c.,  at  quarter-sessions  and 
assizes. 

No  civil  or  political  disability  exists  in  Upper 
Canada  on  account  of  religious  persuasion,  but  all 
are  equally  free.  The  Church  of  England  derives 
its  support  from  grants  of  land  which  have  been 
made  to  it,  and,  beyond  this,  has  no  claim  further 
than  any  other  class  of  ecclesiastics. 

Schools  upon  the  national  system  of  education 
are  distributed  in  all  the  districts,  which  are  erected 
and  supported  by  the  public  revenues. 

The  money  of  the  Upper  Province  is  the  same  as 
in  the  Lower  Province,  except  that  crowns  and  half- 
crowns  go  for  no  more  than  dollars  and  half-dollars  ; 
indeed,  it  is  best  to  convert  all  English  money  into 
dollars  at  Quebec  or  Montreal.  Accounts  are  kept 
the  same  as  in  the  Lower  Province,  in  Halifax  cur- 


REVENUE. 


77 

reney  of  four  dollars  to  the  pound,  at  5 s.  each.  It 
is  also  necessary  to  observe,  that  in  consequence  of 
the  frequent  intercourse  with  the  Americans,  great 
use  is  made  of  their  way  of  reckoning  the  dollar  8s.  ; 
so  that  a ‘ York  shilling,’  as  it  is  called,  is  no  better 
than  7\d.  Canadian  ; and  this  circumstance  is  not 
unfrequently  made  use  of  by  the  Americans,  to 
entice  the  ignorant  labourer  over  to  their  side  of  the 
lake  or  river,  by  the  sound  of  higher  wages  to  the 
ear,  but  perhaps  less  to  the  other  senses. 

There  is  a bank  at  York,  which  has  been  long 
established ; one-fourth  of  whose  stock  was  sub- 
scribed by  the  provincial  government.  Consequently, 
they  have  the  opportunity  of  exercising  a salutary 
control  over  it,  and  protecting  the  interests  of  the 
public.  A bill  passed  last  Session  for  the  esta- 
blishment of  a bank  at  Kingston,  which  has  long 
been  desired  and  asked  for ; but  the  same  vigilance 
is  exercised  here  as  in  Lower  Canada  and  England, 
to  keep  the  circulation  of  paper  within  the  bounds  of 
moderation  ; and  however  this  policy  may  retard, 
in  appearance,  the  prosperity  of  the  province  as 
compared  with  the  United  States,  the  real  and  solid 
advantages  of  such  wholesome  control  will  not  be 
denied  in  Europe,  nor  is  it  by  the  sensible  part  of 
the  Americans. 

REVENUE. 

The  revenue  of  Upper  Canada  is  derived  from  a pro- 
portion of  the  duties  collected  at  Quebec  and  Mon- 


78 


REVENUE. 


treal  on  imported  goods ; the  duties  imposed  on  all 
goods  imported  from  the  United  States,  which  pay 
the  same  as  they  would  pay  if  imported  into  Eng* 
land  (except  grain  of  all  sorts,  flour,  timber,  ashes, 
beef  and  pork,  and  also  live  stock,  which  are  ad- 
mitted free  of  duty)  ; a tax  of  Id.  in  the  pound 
on  houses  in  occupation,  land,  mills,  horses,  car- 
riages, oxen,  and  cows,  all  which  are  estimated  by 
a fixed  table  of  valuation,  where  land  under  cul- 
tivation stands  at  20s,,  and  uncleared  land  at  4s. 
per  acre  ; and  the  other  descriptions  of  property  are 
valued  on  the  same  moderate  scale. 

The  Canada  Land  Company  pay  a yearly  stipend 
of  17,500Z.,  for  a certain  time,  for  their  land  ; and 
there  is  a small  revenue  from  licences  and  fees, 
sales  of  land,  &c.  The  canals,  harbours,  and  light- 
houses, most  of  which  have  been  partly  or  wholly 
constructed  by  the  government,  yield  a revenue. 
The  whole  direct  and  indirect  taxation  scarcely 
amounts  to  3s. sterling  per  head  ; and  if  a deduction 
is  made  for  the  goods  smuggled  across  to  the  United 
States,  the  duties  on  which  must  be  charged  to  the 
Americans,  the  amount  will  be  reduced  almost  to  2s. 
per  head,  or  not  one-tenth  of  what  the  Americans 
pay  their  State  and  Federal  Governments. 

Last  year  the  income  of  the  province  was  nearly 
double  their  expenditure,  and  enabled  them  to  pay 
off  10  per  cent,  of  the  debt  contracted  for  the  pro- 
secution of  canals  and  other  public  works. 


79 


EXPORTS  AND  PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  CANADAS. 

The  chief  exports  of  Canada  are  wheat,  flour,  Indian 
corn,  timber  of  all  sorts,  ships,  salt  provisions,  fish, 
ashes,  furs,  and  a great  variety  of  articles  of  smaller 
consequence,  but  which  are  capable  of  great  in- 
crease. 

The  fisheries  in  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  are 
very  flourishing,  and  are  capable  of  great  extension. 
The  rivers  and  lakes  throughout  Canada  abound  in 
salmon,  sturgeon,  shad,  and  the  smaller  fish ; and 
but  little  profit  is  at  present  derived  from  them, 
though  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  could  be 
turned  to  great  advantage. 

The  mountains  are  rich  in  mineral  productions ; 
but  none  are  worked  except  iron.  Some  fine  speci- 
mens of  marble  have  lately  been  brought  from  the 
island  of  Anticosti,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence * : a beautiful  statuary  marble  is  said  to 
abound  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Saguenay ; and 
other  stone  is  found  in  the  mountains  in  the  different 
parts  of  the  provinces,  particularly  at  Montreal, 
where  a very  fine  grey  granite  is  worked.  Stone  is 
also  easily  to  be  procured  along  the  shores  of  the 
lakes  in  many  parts ; and  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Superior,  marble  of  good  quality  is  found.  Coals 
are  found  in  the  lower  part  of  the  province,  but, 

* Where  a very  handsome  light-house  was  last  year  erected, 
of  some  inferior  marble,  found  in  great  quantities. 


80 


EXPORTS  AND  PRODUCTIONS. 


from  the  abundance  of  wood,  are  not  at  present 
much  attended  to.  A coal-mine  has,  however,  re- 
cently been  opened  in  Nova  Scotia,  said  to  be  of 
very  superior  quality,  and  which  will  be  a valuable 
article  of  export  to  Boston,  New  York,  and  the 
large  towns  on  the  coast  of  the  United  States ; 
their  own  coal  being  by  no  means  applicable  to 
general  purposes,  particularly  steam-boats,  which 
all  use  wood,  though  it  is  getting  scarce  and  dear. 

CONCLUSION. 

Of  whatever  rank  or  condition  in  life  any  person 
may  be  who  contemplates  emigration,  he  must  not 
allow  himself  to  think  that,  with  a change  of  scene, 
he  will  arrive  at  the  end  of  his  troubles. 

He  who  has  come  to  the  determination  of  emi- 
grating, has  done  so,  most  likely,  with  the  hope 
and  expectation  of  attaining  a substantial  and  per- 
manent state  of  prosperity,  instead  of  the  precarious 
and  delusive  circumstances  in  which  he  finds  him- 
self at  present  placed.  Such  an  one  will  do  well  to 
consider,  if  the  end  he  proposes  to  himself  is  suffi- 
cient to  support  him  under  some  difficulties— for 
some  he  is  likely  to  meet  with — whether  he  has  only 
the  health  and  strength  which  nature  has  allotted  to 
him,  unaccompanied  by  more  or  less  wealth,  or,  on 
the  contrary,  is  furnished  with  the  means  of  escaping 
those  privations  which  the  poor  must  undergo  in 
any  civilized  society  on  earth. 


CONCLUSION. 


81 


There  is  the  most  satisfactory  evidence,  viz.,  ex- 
perience, that  nothing  of  value  is  to  be  obtained 
without  some  sort  of  equivalent,  either  by  the  ex- 
change of  articles  on  which  circumstances  stamp  a 
different  value  in  different  places ; or  by  the  labour 
of  the  hands  or  the  head,  to  produce  some  one  or 
more  of  those  articles ; or  by  administering  to  the 
pleasures  or  comfort  of  those  possessing  a surplus 
of  the  necessaries  of  life.  It  would  almost  appear 
ridiculous  thus  to  allude  to  what  no  one  denies,  and 
yet  it  is  certain  that  many  act  as  though  they  were 
not  guided  by  any  such  axioms.  The  philosophy 
of  all  will  be  put  to  some  test  on  landing  in  Ame- 
rica, either  at  New  York  or  Quebec.  At  the  former 
place  he  will  be  captivated  with  the  beauty  of  the 
channel  and  harbour,  and  the  bustle  and  animation 
on  the  quays  and  in  the  streets ; but  his  first  im- 
pressions he  will  find  are  too  vivid  to  last.  Much 
of  the  bustle  he  will  discover  is  the  consequence  of 
the  want  of  system;  and  investigation  on  almost 
every  point  will  remove  his  admiration  a peg  lower. 

New  York  is  about  thirty  miles  from  the  ocean. 
Quebec  is  upwards  of  400  miles  from  Newfound- 
land— the  first  land  generally  made,  the  aspect  of 
which  is  very  wild  and  barren.  The  island  of  An- 
ticosti, or  the  coast  of  Gaspe,  is  next  discovered 
the  former  uninhabited,  and  the  latter  inhabited 
principally  by  fishermen.  From  thence  nearly  to 
Quebec,  300  miles,  the  shores  of  the  river  present 
abrupt  precipices,  with  mountains  no  great  way  in 

e 5 


82 


CONCLUSION. 


the  rear,  crowned  with  forests,  and  entirely  wild. 
This  scenery,  although  sublimely  grand  in  the  eyes 
of  the  lover  of  nature,  is  rather  calculated  to  chill 
the  warm  ideas  of  the  cultivator  ; and  should  con- 
trary winds  detain  him  among  these  wilds,  may  pre- 
dispose him  to  listen  with  too  favourable  an  ear  to 
some  American  speculator’s  glowing  account  of  their 
land  of  promise.  As  he  approaches  to  the  island  of 
Orleans,  he  will  be  more  satisfied ; and  the  admirer 
of  sylvan  beauties  will  be  delighted  as  he  sails  along 
with  this  island  on  one  side,  and  the  main  land  on 
the  other,  both  enlivened  with  the  picturesque 
dwellings  and  churches  of  the  French  Canadians. 
Quebec,  with  its  glittering  tin  roofs  and  spires,  and 
castellated  walls  and  battlements,  with  all  the 
attending  circumstances  of  a port,  is  not  seen  till 
within  four  or  five  miles,  when,  by  turning  a point 
of  land,  the  whole  is  in  view,  with  the  shore  of  the 
St.  Charles,  under  a high  state  of  cultivation,  and 
the  Falls  of  Montmorency.  If  the  weather  should 
be  fine,  dull,  indeed,  must  that  fancy  be  which  can 
remain  unmoved  by  objects  so  grand  and  beautiful 
as  here  present  themselves  ; and  every  moment  till 
the  ship  gets  alongside  the  wharf,  is  usually  occu- 
pied in  examining  its  details. 

If  the  leading  trait  in  the  character  of  the  Ameri- 
cans, viz.,  a migratory  and  restless  spirit,  is  suffi- 
cient to  account  for  many  of  their  actions  in  com- 
mon life,  so  also  does  the  leading  characteristic  of 
the  French  Canadians,  viz.,  an  aversion  to  change. 


CONCLUSION. 


83 


influence  to  an  amazing  degree  almost  every  action 
of  their  lives*  and  operates  greatly  to  the  disadvan- 
tage of  those  parts  inhabited  chiefly  by  them.  This 
spirit  not  only  prevents  them  from  seeking  for  im- 
provements in  agriculture  or  the  arts,  but  actually 
induces  them  to  reject  any  when  they  are  offered. 
The  ground  on  which  the  city  of  Quebec  stands  is 
most  unfavourable  for  the  erection  of  a town,  and 
the  tenure  by  which  the  land  is  held  is  against  the 
erection  of  expensive  houses ; but  neither  of  these 
circumstances  have  had  so  large  a share  in  the  pre- 
sent uncouth  exterior,  as  the  determination  of  the 
inhabitants  to  adhere  to  the  old  and  by-gone  customs 
of  two  or  three  centuries.  However,  there  is,  per- 
haps, no  one  circumstance  or  thing  in  Lower  Ca- 
nada that  does  not  improve  upon  closer  acquaint- 
ance and  inspection  ; still  it  is  not  to  be  denied  that 
the  first  impression  is  likely  to  be  unfavourable^ 
The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  footways  encum- 
bered with  the  steps  stretching  into  the  roadway. 
The  windows  are  small,  and  glazed  with  small 
panes  of  glass,  which  none  but  factories  and  houses 
of  mean  rank  in  England  exhibit ; and  the  ideas  thus 
engendered  cannot  be  got  rid  of  directly.  The  shop  - 
windows  partake  of  the  same  character,  but  the  stock 
within  them  is  not  to  be  estimated  by  the  exterior 
appearance.  The  wharfs  and  warehouses  are  of  a 
different  character,  being  more  accordant  with  the 
ideas  formed  of  a commercial  city,  and  are  chiefly 
the  property  of,  and  built  by,  the  English  and 


84 


CONCLUSION. 


Scotch.  In  these  warehouses  the  goods  are  stored 
for  transmission  to  Montreal,  &c,  ; and  quantities 
are  sold  by  auction  to  the  dealers  at  Quebec ; but  no 
other  sign  of  this  proceeding  is  to  be  discovered,  than 
an  old  flag  hung  out  of  one  of  the  upper  lofts  on  the 
day  of  sale.  If  these  warehouses  were  inspected, 
larger  quantities  of  merchandise  would  be  disco- 
vered than  are  to  be  found  collected  in  the  like  num- 
ber of  warehouses  at  New  York,  where  the  great  and 
first  object  is  to  sell  goods  as  soon  as  landed ; but  a 
stranger  does  not  know  this,  and,  therefore,  is  in- 
clined to  draw  unfavourable  conclusions,  and  be 
discouraged  in  spite  of  himself. 

At  Montreal  this  indifference  to  advancement  in 
civil  life,  which  sits  like  an  incubus  on  the  affairs  of 
the  old  Canadians,  is  not  so  prominent,  by  reason  of 
the  larger  proportion  of  inhabitants  of  British  or 
American  extraction;  but  still  there  is  that  same 
propensity  to  stick  to  the  antiquated  mode  of  con- 
ducting business  and  affairs  generally,  to  be  disco- 
vered, and  to  which  the  English  merchant  must,  in 
some  measure,  conform. 

These  observations  are  made  not  to  discourage 
any  who  are  disposed  to  settle  in  Lower  Canada 
(and  to  Upper  Canada  they  have  not  the  least  refer- 
ence), but  to  prevent  them  from  being  discouraged 
by  first  impressions . The  last  ten  years  have  done 
more  than  the  preceding  century  did  towards  re- 
moving the  old  prejudices  of  the  Canadians,  against 
all  and  every  plan  proposed  for  the  improvement  of 


CONCLUSION. 


85 


the  province,  and  every  year  must  add  in  a geome- 
trical ratio  to  the  new  order  of  things  ; for  the  lower 
class  already  perceive  that  the  enterprize  of  the  Eng- 
lish is  opening  to  them  new  sources  of  employment, 
by  which  the  increasing  population  are  fully  and  pro- 
fitably occupied,  but  which  their  own  wealthy  coun- 
trymen would  never  have  thought  of  or  engaged  in. 
And  besides  this,  it  is  to  be  considered,  that  by  the 
natural  increase  of  the  British  in  the  townships, 
aided  by  emigration,  the  proportion  of  the  French 
Canadians  is  yearly  diminishing.  The  English  lan- 
guage is  now  as  much  used  as  the  French  in  the 
large  towns  ; and  it  is  by  many  supposed,  that  in 
another  twenty  years,  or  less,  French  will  be  spoken 
no  where  but  in  remote  parts.  This  last  circum- 
stance proves  that  a change  is  working.  The  higher 
order  among  them  are  by  no  means  devoid  of  talent ; 
and  although  they  have  allowed  their  humble  bre- 
thren to  be  the  first  discoverers  of  the  benefits 
arising  from  an  enlarged  and  liberal  view  of  things, 
yet  their  interest  must  dictate  their  acquiescence, 
even  if  their  good  sense  will  not. 

Lieutenant-Colonel  Bouchette,  a Canadian,  and 
surveyor-general  of  the  province,  in  speaking  of  the 
agriculturist,  says,  ‘ Unhappily  it  is  a circumstance 
much  to  be  deplored,  that  the  Canadian  farmer  has 
not  had,  to  this  time,  the  means  of  instruction  in 
numberless  new  and  useful  methods  by  which  the 
labour  of  the  cultivator  is  abridged.  As  he  is  igno- 
rant of  all  other  modes,  he  continues  to  cultivate  the 


86 


CONCLUSION. 


ground  after  the  manner  of  his  ancestors  for  many 
generations,  and  long  habit  confirms  him  in  an  un- 
profitable partiality  to  old  customs  ; knowing  the 
natural  fertility  of  his  land,  he  is  content  to  receive 
a crop  equal  to  the  years  preceding,  and  exhibits  no 
apparent  desire  to  accumulate  wealth  by  any  new 
method.  But  the  belief  that  bad  success  and  loss 
would  follow  the  use  of  new  methods,  operates  more 
forcibly  upon  him  than  disinclination  to  augment 
his  riches,  the  desire  of  which  is  as  lively  in  him  as 
in  others’ 

If  this  estimate  of  their  character  is  correct,  there 
is  no  ground  for  despairing  of  them  ; and  although 
the  progress  of  improvement  is  slow,  it  will  be  sure. 

But  there  is  ample  scope  for  the  enterprise  and 
industry  of  the  emigrant,  whether  of  the  agricultural, 
mechanical,  or  trading  class,  without  being  controlled 
by  the  notorious  apathy  of  the  old  Canadians,  and 
which,  in  fact,  is  in  many  instances  rather  an  advan- 
tage to  an  enterprising  European  than  otherwise,  as 
it  gives  him  the  first  profits  of  any  new  process  of 
manufacture  or  speculation. 

The  obvious  advantages  of  Lower  Canada  are  the 
uninterrupted  navigation  to  the  ocean,  thereby  con- 
stituting the  ports  of  Montreal  and  Quebec  the  centre 
of  the  trade  of  this  great  extent  of  country  with  all  its 
attendant  advantages ; the  intercourse  with  the 
fisheries  of  Newfoundland  and  Nova  Scotia,  and  the 
country  at  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence, 
the  West  Indies,  and  also  with  the  United  States, 


CONCLUSION. 


87 


both  by  sea  and  inland  navigation  ; the  crops  and  pro- 
duce are  encumbered  with  less  charge  of  carriage, 
and  articles  of  British  or  West  Indian  production 
are  cheaper  from  the  same  cause.  Ship-building 
and  other  operations  may  be  carried  on  here,  which 
could  not  in  the  Upper  Province. 

The  advantages  of  the  Upper  Province  to  the 
cultivator,  are,  its  milder  climate,  and  greater  fertility 
of  its  soil.  To  the  trader,  a certainty  that  a region 
so  blest  must  increase  its  population  continually, 
and  consequently  create  a rising  demand  for  all  the 
necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life.  The  superiority  of 
internal  navigation  which  it  possesses  over  any  pos- 
sessed by  that  part  of  the  United  States  bordering 
on  the  lakes,  must  insure  to  it  a large  share  of  the 
trade  of  those  parts ; and  the  great  facilities  pre- 
sented by  the  numerous  falls  of  water,  for  the  erec- 
tion of  flouring-mills,  which  cannot  be  increased  to 
a greater  extent  than  the  demand  for  the  article  in 
England,  either  for  the  supply  of  our  own  rapidly- 
increasing  population,  or  as  an  article  of  the  first 
necessity  to  other  parts  of  Europe. 


PART  II. 


SECTIONAL  VIEW. 


LOWER  CANADA. 

The  province  of  Lower  Canada  is  divided  into  five 
districts : beginning  at  the  east,  they  are  Gaspe, 
Quebec,  Saint  Francis,  Three  Rivers,  and  Montreal. 
These  districts  are  divided  into  counties  ; and  the 
parts  which  were  settled  and  granted  at  the  time  the 
province  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  are 
further  divided  into  parishes : these  are  situate  on 
each  side  of  the  river,  between  it  and  the  townships, 
and  are  not  numbered  on  the  map. 

The  tenure  upon  which  these  lands  are  held  by 
the  seigneurs,  or  lords,  is  feudal ; their  under-tenants 
hold  of  them  somewhat  in  the  way  in  which  copy- 
holds  are  held  in  England,  paying  a small  annual 
rent,  and  a fine  upon  alienation ; and  they  are  also 
subject  to  the  payment  of  a twenty-sixth  part  of  the 
grain  raised,  for  the  support  of  the  clergy.  These 
lands,  from  being  a long  time  under  cultivation,  and 
by  such  slovenly  cultivators  as  the  generality  of  the 
Canadians,  are  of  course  considerably  exhausted. 
2 B 


2 


LOWER  CANADA. 


The  laws  affecting  real  property,  also,  differ  from 
ours,  which  renders  great  precaution  necessary  in  set- 
tling on  them  ; but  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  advan- 
tages of  situation  are  very  great.  The  manners  of 
t he  people,  after  a while,  will  be  found  very  pleasing  ; 
and,  perhaps,  some  of  these  lands  would,  under  an 
improved  system  of  working,  prove  an  advantageous 
purchase  to  the  North  of  England  or  Scotch  farmer 
of  some  capital.  As,  however,  the  quantity  of  land 
offered  for  sale  in  the  old  parts,  bears  no  sensible 
proportion  to  the  new  parts,  or  townships,  they  will 
not  be  further  noticed ; besides,  they  are  easily  ac- 
cessible, so  that  a personal  inspection  of  any  portion 
offered  for  sale,  is  within  a moderate  expense  of  time 
and  money. 

The  district  of  Gaspe  is  chiefly  devoted  to  the 
fisheries,  and  occupied  by  Canadians ; it  has  a few 
townships  on  the  borders  of  the  Bay  Chaleur ; but 
the  inducements  to  the  English  emigrant,  unless  a 
fisherman,  are  too  small  to  require  a further  notice 
here. 

A township  is  generally  a square  tract  of  land  of 
about  100  miles,  or  10  miles  each  way,  containing 
61,000  acres,  besides  an  allowance  of  five  acres  in 
every  hundred  for  main  roads.  The  townships,  front- 
ing a river  or  lake,  are  usually  nine  miles  in  front, 
by  twelve  in  depth,  which  will  contain  67,200  acres, 
besides  the  allowance  for  highways.  These  town- 
ships are  divided  into  11  or  12  ranges  or  conces- 
sions, of  28  lots  each,  of  200  acres,  distinguished 


LOWER  CANADA. 


3 


as  the  1st,  2d,  3d,  and  so  on,  range  or  concession, 
reckoning  from  the  lake,  river,  or  main  road  by 
which  the  township  is  fronted,  and  in  the  same  order 
for  those  behind.  Of  these  lots,  one  in  seven  is  re- 
served for  the  support  of  the  Protestant  clergy,  and 
another  seventh  for  the  crown  ; the  rest  are  granted 
(or  sold)  in  free  and  common  soccage  ; that  is,  are 
held  as  freehold  land  is  held  in  England. 

The  district  of  Quebec  is  estimated,  by  the  Sur- 
veyor-General, to  contain  about  18,000  square  miles, 
and  a population  of  66,000  souls.  It  is  well  watered, 
over  the  whole  of  its  extent,  by  small  lakes  and 
rivers,  abounding  in  fish  of  excellent  quality  and 
great  variety.  The  face  of  the  district  is  mountain- 
ous, especially  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  St. 
Lawrence  ; but  on  the  south  side  are  many  valleys, 
and  flat  tracts  of  considerable  extent.  It  is,  at  pre- 
sent, divided  into  11  counties  ; but  as  some  of  these 
appear  to  have  changed  their  names  within  a few 
years,  and  others  are  almost  wholly  occupied  by 
seigneuries,  it  is  not  intended  to  notice  them  more 
particularly,  but  to  take  the  townships  in  the  whole 
district  in  alphabetical  order,  for  the  sake  of  clear- 
ness ; it  being  of  much  more  consequence  to  be  able 
to  refer  at  once  to  the  township,  than  the  county  in 
which  it  is  situate,  that  being  of  little  consequence 
to  the  emigrant. 


4 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT*. 

Adstock.  10.  Not  yet  surveyed,  and  not  appear- 
ing by  the  map  to  have  any  river  or  branch  of  a 
principal  river  in  its  bounds. 

Armagh . 21.  No  part  yet  settled.  The  soil  is  but 
indifferent ; some  meadow  lands  between  the  high 
lands  : it  is  bordered  on  one  side  by  the  river  Du  Sud. 

Ashford . 28.  Not  having  a very  good  character 
as  to  quality  of  soil,  although  Bouchette  speaks  of  the 
seigneuries  adjoining  being  well  peopled  and  pro- 
ducing grain  of  all  sorts.  Pine,  beech,  maple,  and 
spruce,  are  the  chief  woods  growing  on  it ; rocky 
heights  intersect  it,  and  it  is  watered  by  many  small 
streams. 

Broughton.  8.  Although  this  township  is  a little 
mountainous,  much  of  its  surface  is  of  good  quality. 
It  is  well  furnished  with  maple,  beech,  birch,  elm, 
besides  great  quantities  of  inferior  timber.  It  is 
watered  by  many  small  streams,  some  of  which  enter 
the  river  Chaudiere,  running  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
near  Quebec.  At  present  not  navigable  through  its 
whole  extent,  though,  perhaps,  at  some  future  time 
it  will  be  made  so.  The  seigneurie  of  St.  Joseph 
lies  between  it  and  the  Chaudiere,  to  which  there  is 
tolerably  good  roads,  and  it  has  also  a,  communica- 

* The  corresponding  number  in  the  respective  districts  on 
the  map,  shows  the  geographical  position  of  each  township. 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT.  5 

lion  with  Craigs  road.  It  is  distant  about  50  miles 
from  Quebec,  and  is  partly  settled,  and  has  the  town- 
ships of  Leeds  and  Inverness  on  its  north-west, 
which  are  rapidly  settling. 

Buckland . 21.  One-fourth  only  of  this  township 
has  been  surveyed.  A part  of  it  is  considerably  ele- 
vated, and  the  valleys  rather  wet ; yet  the  soil 
appears  of  good  quality,  adapted  to  all  kinds  of  grain, 
and  hemp  and  flax.  Along  the  rivers  are  fine  mea- 
dows. It  is  well  watered  by  numerous  currents  and 
branches  of  rivers,  and  presents  many  sites  for  mills. 
The  wood  is  chiefly  maple,  beech,  birch,  elm,  cedar, 
and  black  ash.  Some  accounts  say  that  the  rear  and 
south-east  centre  are  high  and  barren.  It  has  not 
many  settlers  upon  it. 

Bungay . 31.  Not  surveyed. 

Coleraine.  9.  Not  much  known,  and  quite  un- 
settled. It  is  watered  by  lake  St.  Francis,  by  which 
it  will  have  a communication  with  the  St.  Lawrence 
at  some  future  day.  Also  by  other  streams  and 
lakes. 

Cranbourn . 24.  Well  watered  by  the  rivers  Des 
Fleurs  and  Guillaume,  and  lakes  Etchemin  and  Petit 
Lac.  From  the  former  proceeds  a river  into  the  St. 
Lawrence  near  Quebec.  The  soil  is  generally  of 
good  quality  : the  best  part  is  between  lake  Etche- 
min and  the  main  branch  of  the  river  flowing  from 
it,  which  is  an  excellent  upland  portion.  The  town- 
ship is  partially  settled,  is  about  45  miles  from  Quebec, 


6 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT. 


and  has  good  communication  with  it  by  the  Ken- 
nebec road. 

Dorset.  15.  This  township  is  on  the  west  side  of 
the  Chaudiere,  which  waters  its  east  side,  and  a 
branch  enters  its  north  boundary.  It  is  a large 
township,  composed  principally  of  fine  eminences  of 
good  soil,  almost  throughout  calculated  for  the  cul- 
ture of  hemp  and  flax.  It  is  admirably  watered  by 
three  lakes,  and  many  streams  which  empty  them- 
selves into  the  Chaudiere.  The  worst  portion  occurs 
on  the  rocky  banks  of  the  Chaudiere.  On  the  borders 
of  the.  other  streams  are  found  some  extent  of  fine 
meadow  land.  The  whole  now  belongs  to  the  heirs 
of  the  late  Mr.  McTavish.  No  settlements  have  yet 
been  made  on  it. 

Frampton.  22.  Is  situate  on  the  east  of  the 
Chaudiere,  having  the  seigneuries  of  St.  Joseph  and 
St.  Marie,  between  that  river  and  it,  and  the  town- 
ship of  Cranbourn  to  the  south.  A soil  for  the  most 
part  favourable  to  agriculture,  although  greatly 
broken  by  hills  and  valleys,  forms  the  general  cha- 
racter of  this  township.  It  is  watered  by  the  prin- 
cipal branch  of  the  river  Etchemin,  and  several 
smaller  rivers,  upon  which  are  many  fine  sites  for 
mills.  The  south-east  part  is  very  mountainous. 
The  uplands  are  well  clothed  with  beech  and  maple, 
the  soil  is  a strong  white  or  yellow  clay,  producing 
good  crops  of  wheat.  The  valleys  are  rather  wet 
and  swampy,  though  possessing  a tolerably  good 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT. 


7 


soil.  Those  which  are  cultivated  show  some  of  the 
finest  meadows.  There  is  also  great  quantities  of 
potter’s  earth  found  in  them.  Much  of  the  surface 
of  the  whole  is  said  to  be  encumbered  with  loose 
stones,  which  increases  the  cost  of  cultivation  ; yet 
it  is  well  settled  by  several  respectable  proprietors, 
and  has  numerous  roads  through  it,  and  the  Ken- 
nebec road  in  front.  Perhaps  its  neighbourhood  to 
Quebec  may  compensate  for  a little  inferiority  of 
soil.  It  has  a corn-mill,  tavern,  several  asheries, 
&c.  &c. 

Gay  hurst.  16.  On  the  river  Chaudiere,  projected, 
but  not  surveyed. 

Halifax.  See  it  in  the  district  of  St.  Francis. 

Ixworth . 29.  A small  part  only  of  this  township 
has  been  surveyed,  namely  about  1200  acres,  which 
are  said  to  be  excellent  land,  and  part  of  it  is  already 
under  cultivation  : of  the  rest  little  is  known.  Much 
pine  timber  is  cut  up  the  river  Ouelle,  which  does 
not  speak  loudly  for  the  excellence  of  the  soil  in  that 
part. 

Inverness.  4.  The  whole  of  this  township  has  an 
excellent  character,  except  a swamp  of  about  8000 
acres  in  the  northern  part,  which  is  covered  with 
hemlock,  spruce  fir,  and  cedar.  On  the  dry  lands 
are  abundance  of  the  hard  woods.  It  is  watered  by 
Lake  William,  which  discharges  into  the  river  Be- 
cancour,  communicating  with  the  St.  Lawrence, 


8 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT. 


besides  other  small  streams.  The  lands  in  the 
south  part  are  considered  the  most  superior.  It  is 
considerably  settled,  and  has  seven  saw-mills  upon 
it,  about  40  miles  from  Quebec,  with  good  roads  all 
the  way,-— although  most  of  the  townships  on  the 
west  of  the  Chaudiere  will  find  St.  Nicholas,  about 
18  miles  above  Quebec,  the  best  point  to  make  to: 
from  thence  a steam-boat  and  small  craft  are  con- 
stantly running,  by  which  much  land  carriage  and 
time  is  saved. 

Ireland,  6.  Is  in  the  rear  of  the  last-mentioned 
township.  The  land  in  the  north-west  (towards 
Halifax,  6,  in  St.  Francis  district)  is  of  an  excellent 
quality,  and  proper  for  hemp  and  flax  or  grain  of 
any  sort.  The  south-east  portion  is  little  worth, 
being  a collection  of  rugged  hills,  with  small  lakes 
and  swamps  between  them.  It  is  watered  by  many 
small  lakes  and  streams,  and  Craig’s  road  to  Quebec 
runs  through  it.  Partly  settled,  and  has  a corn-mill 
and  a sawing  ditto  on  it. 

Jersey,  20.  Is  a triangular-shaped  tract,  lying 
between  the  rivers  Chaudiere  and  Du  Loup.  Not 
yet  surveyed. 

Leeds,  5.  Is  an  irregular-shaped  tract.  Except 
to  the  north-west,  towards  Inverness,  3,  where  it  is 
poor  and  very  stony,  this  township  is  generally  of 
excellent  quality  for  the  whole  routine  of  agriculture. 
It  is  well  wooded  with  the  hard  woods,  intermixed 
with  firs,  and  is  abundantly  watered  by  the  Beean- 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT. 


9 


eour,  which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  by  many 
other  smaller  streams,  and  is  intersected  by  Craig’s 
road.  It  has  been  much  settled  upon  within  the 
last  eight  or  ten  years,  and  particularly  the  last  three 
years,  along  the  road.  It  has  two  saw-mills,  &c. 

Marlow . 19.  Not  surveyed;  on  a branch  of  the 
Chaudiere,  and  near  the  Kennebec  road. 

Nelsoji.  3.  An  irregular-shaped  tract  in  the  rear 
of  the  seigneurie  de  St.  Croix.  The  land  is  rather 
low,  but  of  medium  quality,  calculated  to  produce 
almost  every  kind  of  grain  ; and  towards  the  south- 
east (borders  of  Leeds,  5)  the  land  rises,  and  is  of 
superior  character.  The  timber  is  birch,  beech, 
maple,  and  pine,  besides  cedar,  hemlock,  spruce,  &c. 
on  the  low  and  wet  ground.  It  is  watered  by  the 
rivers  Becancour  and  Du  Chene,  and  many  smaller 
streams,  which  ultimately  fall  into  the  two  first 
named  ; it  is  not,  however,  in  a state  of  settlement. 

Olney . 14.  Not  surveyed. 

Risborough.  18.  Another  projected  township,  not 
yet  surveyed. 

Spalding . 17.  Situate  on  the  east  of  the  Chau- 
diere, and  on  the  boundary  line  between  Canada  and 
the  state  of  Maine. 

Standon . 25.  This  township  is  hilly  and  very 
indifferent  land.  The  best  parts  are  towards  Framp- 
ton,  22,  and  are  already  granted. 

B 5 


10 


QUEBEC  DISTRICT. 


Shenly.  13.  Is  an  irregular  tract,  with  mode- 
rately-good  soil  in  parts,  but  the  general  face  is 
broken  ; rather  deficient  in  water,  though  pretty  well 
wooded ; no  part  yet  under  cultivation. 

Somerset . *.  On  the  south  of  the  river  Becan- 
cour,  and  adjoining  Nelson,  3,  and  partaking  of  its 
general  character. 

Stoneham.  1. — Tewksbury.  2.  These  townships 
are  on  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the 
rear  of  the  seigneuries.  They  are  for  the  most  part 
very  mountainous  and  rocky,  and  not  worth  culti- 
vating, except  in  some  of  the  valleys,  where  there  is 
some  tolerable  land.  Some  exceptions  may  be  made 
In  favour  of  Stoneham,  where  the  land  bordering  the 
river  Jacques  Cartier  is  composed  of  a yellow  marl. 
They  are  watered  by  the  great  rivers  Batiscan, 
Jacques  Cartier,  and  St.  Anne,  and  several  smaller 
rivers  and  lakes. 

Thetford.  7.  On  the  north  side  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, in  the  rear  of  Leeds,  5.  Its  general  character 
is  mountainous,  with  a few  portions  of  good  land. 
The  south-east,  towards  Coleraine,  9,  and  Tring,  11, 
is  very  poor,  lying  upon  a bed  of  stone.  It  is  but 
thinly  wooded,  though  it  is  generally  of  good  quality, 
and  well  watered. 

Tring.  11.  The  ground  for  the  most  part  is 
capable  of  profitable  cultivation,  and  abounds  in 
excellent  timber.  It  is  well  watered  by  a chain  of 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS* 


11 


rive  lakes,  well  stocked  with  excellent  fish  ; they  fall 
into  the  river  Chaudiere.  Settlement  begun. 

Ware,  27.  Not  surveyed. 

Watford.  26.  Not  surveyed. 

Winslow . 1 2.  Not  surveyed. 

Woodbridge.  30.  Not  surveyed. 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS.  ’ 

The  district  of  Three  Rivers  lies  to  the  west  of  the 
district  of  Quebec,  and  originally  included  the  district 
of  St.  Francis,  which  is  the  southern  part,  and  which 
is  now  wholly  laid  out  in  townships.  For  the  sake 
of  clearness  they  will  be  enumerated  separately. 
This  district  contains  four  counties. 

The  town  of  Three  Rivers  lies  on  the  north  banks 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
present  settled  part  of  the  district.  The  climate 
is  considerably  milder  than  that  of  the  Quebec 
district,  general  report  concurring  that  the  principle 
of  vegetation  is  active  for  a month  more  in  this  than 
in  that  district. 

The  lands  on  each  side  of  the  river  are  occupied 
by  seigneuries,  and  contain  about  1,040,000  acres. 
There  are  but  few  townships  laid  out,  and  those 


12 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


nearly  all  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  adjoining' 
the  district  of  St.  Francis.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
river  some  of  the  land  is  of  excellent  quality,  but 
degenerates  towards  the  mountains,  and  in  parts, 
especially  those  bordering  lake  St.  Peter,  is  subject 
to  floods  in  the  spring. 

Arthabaska.  14.  Is  an  irregular-shaped  tract 
not  settled.  The  soil  resembles  the  adjoining  town- 
ships of  Halifax  and  Chester,  but  in  some  parts  it 
is  lower  and  a little  swampy.  The  wood  consists 
principally  of  beech,  birch,  and  elm,  and  some  pines. 
The  inferior  woods  are  abundant  in  the  low  parts. 
Many  branches  of  the  rivers  Nicolet  and  Becancour 
traverse  it.  The  river  Nicolet  is  navigable  for  21 
miles  from  its  mouth  at  the  east  end  of  lake  St. 
Peter. 

Aston.  5.  Is  seated  on  the  river  Becancour,  and 
in  the  rear  of  the  seigneurie  of  Becancour.  On  the 
river  before-mentioned  and  the  river  Blanch,  the 
land  is  rather  high,  but  at  a little  distance  it  is 
low  and  flat:  the  soil  is  however  good,  and  it  is 
the  opinion  of  Bouchette  it  will  prove  very  fertile 
under  good  cultivation  ; the  wood  upon  it  is  various  ; 
it  has  a road  into  the  district  of  St.  Francis,  and  has 
communication  with  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  Be- 
cancour, which,  though  not  navigable  at  present,  by 
reason  of  falls  and  rapids,  will  no  doubt  be  made  so 
at  some  future  time.  It  is  partially  settled  in  the 
front. 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


13 


Blandford.  7.  On  the  borders  of  the  Becancour, 
and  in  the  rear  of  the  seigneuries  of  Gentilly  and 
Livard.  This  and  the  neighbouring  township  of 
Maddington  partake  of  the  same  character.  Along 
the  river  the  land  is  of  the  same  description  as  in 
Aston  : the  surface  is  generally  level,  and  the  soil 
for  the  most  part  of  good  quality,  and  calculated  for 
the  cultivation  of  grain  or  hemp  and  flax.  It  is  well 
watered  by  many  small  streams  and  lakes,  on  the 
borders  of  which  are  good  pasture  tracts.  Settlement 
is  commenced  in  front,  and  a saw-mill  erected. 

Bulstrode 8.  South-west  of  the  last-named 
township,  and  between  the  rivers  Becancour  and 
Nicolet.  The  surface  in  general  is  level  and  low, 
with  many  marshes  and  brules  (spots  on  which  the 
timber  has  been  burnt  or  blasted),  particularly  to- 
wards the  middle  of  the  township.  Near  the  rivers, 
and  towards  Warwick,  the  ground  is  higher,  and  has  a 
pretty  good  soil : the  low  parts  are  somewhat  sandy, 
and  in  others  a black  earth  prevails.  There  is  but 
one  settlement,  which  is  on  the  Becancour,  of  40 
inhabitants. 

Caxton.  2.  This  township  is  on  the  north  side 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  having  the  lands  belonging  to 
the  St.  Maurice  Iron  Works  on  the  east,  and  the 
township  of  Hunter’s  Town  on  the  west,  and  in  front 
the  seigneurie  of  St.  Etienne.  Two  good  roads 
have  lately  been  opened  through  it,  and  a communi- 
cation made  with  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  river  Du 


14 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


Loup.  The  land  is  described  to  be  in  general  low, 
with  some  thickly-wooded  hills  ; and  where  the 
roads  have  been  cut,  the  wood  is  said  to  be  of  very 
good  quality.  There  are  yet  but  few  settlers  upon 
it  ; but  if  the  description  is  correct,  perhaps  it  may 
be  called  a valuable  spot  from  its  locality. 

Glasgow.— Is  a projected  township  also  on  the 
north  of  the  St  Lawrence,  but  not  surveyed. 

Grantham.  3.  On  the  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  between  the  boundary  of  the  Montreal  district 
and  the  river  St.  Francis  ; on  the  banks  of  which  the 
ground  is  high,  and  cut  by  many  deep  ravines.  In 
other  directions  it  is  much  more  level.  The  soil  is 
good  almost  throughout  the  whole  extent.  In  many 
parts  of  this  township  are  large  tracts,  that  produce 
abundantly  a species  of  grass  which  dries  upon  the 
ground,  and  is  not  much  inferior  to  meadow  hay. 
The  river  Noire,  or  Black  River,  with  many  other 
streams,  run  through  it,  and  offer  many  favourable 
situations  for  mills.  A post  road  from  Quebec  to 
Boston  and  Burlington,  on  lake  Champlain,  runs 
through  it  5 and  there  are  other  good  roads.  The 
principal  road,  however,  runs  through  a flat  and 
sandy  tract,  of  but  little  value.  It  is  well  settled, 
and  has  within  it  the  village  of  Drummondville,  two 
churches,  (Roman  Catholic,)  two  schools,  four  tan- 
neries, three  saw-mills,  two  corn  ditto,  eight  asheries, 
a carding  and  a fulling  mill,  a tavern,  &c.  The 
population  is  about  400.  On  the  banks  of  the  St. 
Francis  is  abundance  of  iron  ore. 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


15 


Horton . 10.  Is  a small  irregular  tract  on  the 
western  border  of  Bulstrode.  The  river  Nicolet 
runs  through  it.  There  is  not  much  known  of  it, 
but  the  neighbourhood  of  the  river  in  the  adjoining 
township  of  Bulstrode  is  rather  favourably  spoken 
of  by  Bouchette.  It  has  but  one  settler  on  it. 

Hunterstown.  1.  On  the  north  side  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  adjoining  the  township  of  Caxton.  To- 
wards the  rear  it  is  broken  by  very  high  hills ; and 
the  whole  has  but  a very  indifferent  character,  pre- 
senting a continued  stratum  of  rock,  lying  very 
near  the  surface.  Pine  and  maple  are  in  great 
quantities,  but  cedar,  spruce,  and  hemlock  are  much 
more  so. 

Maddington.  6.  On  the  south  side  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  adjoining  Blandford,  and  partakes  very 
much  of  its  character.  In  parts  it  is  represented  to 
be  of  superior  quality,  and  in  others  rocky  and 
sterile.  Near  the  river  Becancour  the  land  is  equal 
to  that  of  Aston.  Only  one  settlement  has  been 
made  on  it,  and  is  near  the  river,  which  presents 
many  good  opportunities  for  mill-seats. 

Simpson.  12.  On  the  east  side  of  the  St.  Francis. 
It  is  low  and  level,  but  with  very  few  swamps,  and 
is  calculated  for  the  cultivation  of  all  sorts  of  grain, 
and  also  hemp  and  flax.  Beech  and  maple  are 
found  partially ; but  the  woods  of  less  value  are 
more  abundant.  A few  settlers  only  are  upon  it? 
near  the  St.  Francis,  and  the  road  which  follows  its 


16 


DISTRICT  OF  THREE  RIVERS. 


course  till  it  meets  Craig’s  road,  in  the  township  of 
Shipton,  in  the  district  of  St.  Francis.  It  is  wa- 
tered by  several  branches  of  the  Nicolet,  by  which 
many  mills  might  be  advantageously  built. 

Stamford . 9.  On  the  south  of  the  river  Becan- 
cour,  between  Bulstrode  and  Somerset.  The  situa- 
tion of  this  township  is  very  low,  and  extremely 
swampy,  and  only  a small  portion  of  it  fit  for  culti- 
vation. 

Warwick,  1 3.  Bounded  towards  the  east  by  the 
Nicolet;  and  the  south-west  branch  of  the  same 
river  runs  through  the  adjoining  township  of  Simp- 
son, and  from  which  proceed  numerous  branches, 
that  in  the  spring  overflow  a great  part  of  Warwick. 
Excepting  the  three  first  ranges  of  lots,  it  is  perfectly 
worthless,  and  is  thickly  covered  with  spruce  and 
hemlock. 

Wendover.  4.  Between  the  south-west  branch  of 
the  Nicolet  and  the  St.  Francis.  Near  the  latter 
river  the  land  is  susceptible  of  culture ; but  at  no 
great  distance  it  falls  into  low  and  deep  swamps, 
with  a soil  of  sand  and  gravel.  The  road  between 
the  state  of  Vermont  and  the  river  St.  Lawrence 
lying  through  it,  may,  however,  at  some  future  time, 
render  some  part  of  it  valuable. 

Wickham . 11.  Lies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
St.  Francis,  and  is  very  little  superior  to  the  last- 
mentioned  township.  But  the  advantage  of  the 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


17 


river  St.  Francis,  and  also  the  road  to  Boston  and 
Quebec,  has  attracted  settlers  to  the  number  of  260, 
with  a corn  mill  and  saw  ditto. 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 

The  district  of  St.  Francis  claims  a large  share 
of  the  attention  of  the  emigrant  intending  to  settle 
in  the  lower  province  of  Canada.  It  possesses  much 
greater  fertility  than  the  district  of  Quebec,  as  well 
as  a milder  climate ; and  being  entirely  laid  out  in 
townships,  the  whole  of  it  is  held,  or  will  be  granted, 
on  the  same  tenure  on  which  lands  are  held  in  Eng- 
land. it  is  well  intersected  with  rivers,  lakes,  and 
roads,  which  will  be  noticed  in  the  respective  town- 
ships. The  river  St.  Francis,  which  runs  through  a 
great  part  of  its  depth,  is  a large  stream,  and  one  of 
its  branches  nearly  joins  a stream  leading  into  lake 
Memphremagog,  which,  by  another  stream,  com- 
municates with  the  Connecticut  river,  running  into 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  practicability  of  rendering 
this  navigation  available  from  the  lake  to  the  St. 
Lawrence,  at  no  very  vast  outlay,  is  reported  to  be 
placed  beyond  a doubt ; and  as  soon  as  the  general 
state  of  settlement  in  the  district  warrants  the  un- 
dertaking such  an  extensive  work,  it  will,  in  all  pro- 
bability, be  commenced.  The  county  of  Sherbrook 


18 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


at  present  includes  the  greater  part  of  this  district ; 
but  it  will  probably  be  divided  at  some  future  time. 

Adstock.  25.  A projected  township  only,  but 
supposed  to  lie  rather  high,  not  far  from  lake  Me- 
gantic.  Shape  triangular. 

Ascot.  13.  Is  advantageously  situated  on  the 
forks  of  the  river  St.  Francis,  and  near  the  north 
end  of  lake  Memphremagog.  In  every  point  this 
tract  is  considered  valuable  ; and  the  nature  of  the 
soil  is  so  happily  varied,  that  it  is  adapted  to  every 
agricultural  purpose.  The  timber  is  principally 
beech,  maple,  oak,  and  pine.  It  has  some  consider- 
able streams  running  through  it,  on  which  several 
large  mills  have  been  put  into  operation.  On  the 
sides  of  the  rivers  many  farms  have  (says  the  Sur- 
veyor-General in  1815)  arrived  at  a flourishing  state, 
which  proves  their  improvement  must  have  been 
rapid,  since  no  part  of  the  land  was  granted  before 
1803.  He  estimated  the  population  at  that  time  at 
1000  souls ; and  it  has  been  advancing  from  that 
time  steadily.  A great  many  of  the  settlers  in  this 
and  the  neighbouring  townships  are  Americans,  who 
have  been  attracted  by  the  advantages  of  the  situa- 
tion and  soil,  and  have  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance 
to  the  British  government.  They  are  very  expert 
at  clearing  land  and  bringing  it  forward,  and  no 
doubt,  like  most  of  their  countrymen,  are  not  disin- 
clined to  sell  their  improved  farms,  and  then  set  to 
work  to  clear  new  ones.  There  are  two  villages  in 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


19 


the  township,  about  three  miles  apart,  Sherbroke 
and  Lenoxville.  The  former  contains  from  300  to 
400,  and  the  latter  150  to  200  inhabitants.  Many 
manufactories  of  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  corn,  and 
saw  mills,  are  established ; and  there  is  besides 
considerable  traffic  with  the  United  States  in  live 
stock  and  other  produce,  which  must  very  much 
increase  when  the  contemplated  improvement  in  the 
navigation  of  the  St.  Francis  takes  place;  so  that 
this  is  rather  a favourable  spot  for  the  small  trader 
to  direct  his  views  to,  especially  if  conversant  in  any 
of  the  useful  arts. 

Auckland.  36.  Lies  near  the  bounds  of  the  pro- 
vince,  and  the  state  of  New  Hampshire.  It  is  in 
general  unequal  and  rough  ; in  some  parts  moun- 
tainous, and  in  others  marshy  and  low.  The  dry 
and  level  parts  possess  a moderately  good  soil, 
which  would  repay  the  labour  of  cultivation.  In 
some  lower  parts,  hemp  might  be  grown  to  advan- 
tage. It  is  intersected  by  numerous  streams,  and 
the  Indians  have  made  a path  through  it  to  the 
Chaudiere  river.  No  part  is  yet  settled. 

Barford.  40.  Is  a small  township  on  the  frontier 
line,  and  no  part  yet  settled,  although  the  quality 
of  the  land  is  good,  and  the  wood  excellent.  It  is 
well  watered  by  small  streams. 

Brompton.  8.  Is  seated  on  the  west  of  the  river 
St.  Francis,  by  which,  and  towards  Melbourn,  the 
land  is  of  a medium  quality,  but  towards  the  south 


20 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


it  is  rough  and  barren : it  is  watered  by  several 
streams  and  a lake.  On  the  St.  Francis  several 
farms  are  settled,  which  are  prosperous.  Contains 
a population  of  about  300. 

Bury . 19.  Is  of  an  irregular  shape,  only  partially 
surveyed,  but  the  soil  is  said  to  be  pretty  good,  and 
very  susceptible  of  culture,  and  appears  likely  to 
suit  all  kinds  of  grain.  The  timber  consists  of 
maple,  ash,  beech,  butternut,  &c.  It  is  watered  by 
many  small  streams,  and  will  be  traversed  by  a 
road  into  Vermont,  and  also  connected  with  Craig’s 
road,  in  the  township  of  Ireland,  in  the  Quebec 
district. 

Chester . 6.  A township  adjoining  Arthabaska,  in 
the  district  of  Three  Rivers.  It  possesses  consider- 
able advantages  by  its  situation,  and  a soil  proper 
for  all  kinds  of  agriculture.  The  Surveyor-General 
speaks  in  high  terms  of  the  south-east  and  north- 
west quarters.  It  is  traversed  by  Craig’s  road,  and 
watered  by  several  main  branches  of  theNicolet  and 
the  Becancour.  The  timber  is  abundant  and  of 
great  variety.  Settlement  commenced. 

Chesham . 31.  Not  yet  surveyed. 

Clinton.  32.  A small  tract,  scarcely  more  than 
one-fourth  of  a regular  township,  at  the  south  end 
of  lake  Megantic,  and  having  on  its  east  the  township 
of  Woburn,  which  lies  within  the  territory  in  dispute 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States.  The 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


21 


land  is  in  all  respects  of  a superior  character,  and 
the  soil  of  the  first  quality,  and  presents  a good 
quantity  of  luxuriant  pasturage.  No  part  of  this 
township  has  yet  been  settled,  although  it  abounds 
in  advantageous  spots.  It  is  well  watered  by  seve- 
ral streams  that  fall  into  the  lake  from  which  the 
river  Chaudiere  proceeds  to  the  St.  Lawrence  near 
Quebec. 

Clifton . 35.  This  tract  is  tolerably  level,  except 
near  the  rivers,  where  it  is  broken  and  steep,  form- 
ing an  agreeable  variety.  The  quality  of  the  soil  is 
generally  good,  and  able  to  produce  grain  in  abun- 
dance. Some  swamps,  covered  with  cedar  and 
black  ash,  are  to  be  found  in  different  directions ; 
but  they  are  capable  of  being  drained  with  ease.  It 
is  watered  by  two  or  three  rivers  and  a great  num- 
ber of  smaller  streams,  which  fall  into  the  St.  Francis. 
Settlement  commenced,  and  three  asheries,  one  corn- 
mill,  one  saw-mill,  and  a school  are  established. 

Compton.  34.  This  township  joins  the  well- 
settled  township  of  Ascot,  to  which  it  is  in  no  respect 
inferior.  It  contains  in  different  parts  gentle  eleva- 
tions of  great  extent,  which  are  covered  with  wood 
of  good  quality  and  large  size.  It  is  excellently 
watered  by  the  St.  Francis,  near  which  is  good 
meadow  land.  Roads  are  cut  and  bridges  erected 
in  the  settled  parts,  communicating  with  Quebec 
and  other  parts  by  Craig’s  road.  Numerous 
thriving  settlements  are  made  near  the  rivers  ; and, 


22 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


as  the  chief  of  the  traffic  between  Canada  and 
Vermont  passes  through  it,  it  is  in  every  respect  a 
flourishing  township,  and  contains  seven  saw-mills, 
two  corn  ditto,  one  carding  and  one  fulling  ditto, 
asheries,  taverns,  school,  &c. 

Croydon.  38.  Is  on  the  line  between  Canada 
and  the  state  of  New  Hampshire.  It  is  not  yet 
surveyed. 

Ditchfield. . 28.  Lying  on  the  east  of  lake  Megan- 
tic,  but  no  account  has  yet  been  given  of  it. 

Biiton . 30.  The  surface  of  this  township  is 
irregular,  and  rises  in  many  places  into  hills.  The 
soil  however  is  generally  good,  and  it  is  well  tim- 
bered. It  is  cut  by  many  good  streams,  which  fall 
into  the  St.  Francis.  No  part  is  settled. 

Drayton.  42.  Is  in  the  disputed  territory  ; and 
some  settlers  from  the  United  States  have  cleared  a 
portion  of  it.  Hence  it  is  inferred  that  it  contains 
some  good  land. 

Dudswell.  15.  The  soil  in  this  township,  where 
it  is  level,  is  fit  for  the  culture  of  grain.  Towards 
the  centre  it  rises  to  a considerable  mountain,  the 
top  of  which  is  flat  and  divested  of  wood : it  is 
therefore  called  the  Bald  Mountain.  The  timber  is 
greatly  varied.  The  St.  Francis,  with  many  small 
currents,  water  it  completely.  A road  is  now  in 
progress  through  the  township,  which  will  of  course 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


23 


much  benefit  it ; and  some  farms  are  settled,  which 
have  attained  a respectable  state  of  prosperity. 

Durham.  1.  The  land  is  generally  good,  and 
contains  many  large  tracts  capable  of  cultivation  with 
advantage.  The  wood  upon  it  is  in  the  usual  va- 
riety. There  is  oak  among  it,  but  it  is  not  so  abun- 
dant as  other  sorts.  It  is  watered  by  a great  number 
of  small  streams.  The  road  to  Drummondville,  in 
the  township  of  Ascot,  runs  through  it,  on  which 
some  settlements  have  been  made.  It  possesses  two 
saw-mills,  and  offers  situations  for  many  more. 
Population  about  270. 

Eaton . 22.  The  land  generally  may  be  said  to 
be  of  a favourable  quality ; towards  the  north-west, 
next  to  Stoke,  it  is  rather  low;  in  other  parts  there 
are  swelling  uplands.  Parts  are  stony  and  occa- 
sionally sandy.  Slate  of  good  quality  has  been 
found,  but  experience  is  rather  against  its  use  in 
Lowrer  Canada,  and  black-lead  ore  has  been  dis- 
covered. Much  of  the  west  part  is  settled  towards 
Ascot,  to  the  extent  of  9000  acres,  with  a population 
of  upwards  of  800,  with  two  Protestant  churches, 
six  saw-mills,  three  corn  ditto,  a tannery,  asberies, 
a distillery,  carding  and  fulling  mill,  taverns,  &c. 
Although  no  stream  of  considerable  size  is  in  this 
township,  it  is  intersected  by  a great  number  of  small 
rivulets.  The  wood  is  remarkable  for  its  abundance, 
excellence,  and  great  variety. 

Emberton . 37.  Not  yet  surveyed. 


24 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


Garthby . 17.  One  of  the  three  townships  in 
which  is  the  lake  St.  Francis,  but  not  yet  sur- 
veyed. 

Halifax . 6.  Partly  situate  in  the  district  of  Que- 
bec. Is  one  of  the  most  northerly  townships  in  this 
district.  It  is  described  as  possessing  a soil  gene- 
rally excellent.  It  presents  many  good  situations 
for  the  cultivation  of  hemp  and  flax.  The  north- 
east part  is  low  and  has  some  marshes,  but  they 
admit  of  being  easily  drained.  In  the  opposite  di- 
rection it  rises,  and  is  unequal  in  verging  towards 
the  south.  It  is  watered  by  some  small  rivers  and 
streams,  and  by  the  picturesque  little  lake  Pitt,  which 
is  about  five  miles  long  and  half  a mile  broad,  and 
traverses  the  7th,  8th,  9th,  and  10th  ranges,  and 
discharges  itself  into  the  Becancour.  Craig’s  road 
passes  over  a part  of  this  tract,  but  there  are  not 
many  settlers  at  present  on  it. 

Ham.  11.  The  land  is  of  a description  which 
might  be  cultivated  with  much  success,  and  would 
produce  wheat  and  other  grain.  Some  parts  are 
calculated  for  hemp  and  flax.  The  surface  is  gently 
undulating,  and  covered  with  the  wood  which  in- 
dicates a fertile  soil.  In  some  places  in  the  valleys 
it  is  a little  swampy.  It  is  watered  by  the  river 
Nicolet,  which  takes  its  rise  in  a lake  of  the  same 
name  in  this  and  the  adjoining  township  of  Weedon. 
A road  has  been  projected  to  communicate  with 
Craig’s  road,  but  it  does  not  appear  whether  it  has 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


25 


been  completed,  nor  if  any  settlement  has  been  ef- 
fected. 

Hampden . 24.  An  irregular- shaped  tract,  not 
yet  surveyed. 

Hartwell.  29.  In  the  disputed  territory.  Not 
surveyed. 

Hereford.  41.  This  township  is  on  the  frontier 
between  Canada  and  Vermont.  The  surface  is  un- 
even and  mountainous  as  it  approaches  the  south  ; 
yet  the  land  is  generally  pretty  good,  and  applicable 
to  the  various  purposes  of  agriculture.  It  is  well 
watered  by  the  subsidiary  streams  of  the  Connecticut 
river  which  runs  south,  and  on  their  banks  are  some 
settlers,  who  turn  their  attention  to  grazing,  for 
which  their  land  is  adapted.  There  are  two  prin- 
cipal roads  through  the  township.  The  timber  is 
generally  good.  In  some  parts  hemp  and  flax  may 
be  cultivated  to  great  advantage.  There  is  a popu- 
lation amounting  to  nearly  200,  with  a corn-mill, 
two  saw  ditto,  two  schools,  ashery,  &c. 

Kingsey . 2.  On  the  east  bank  of  the  St.  Francis. 
A line  drawn  across  from  east  to  west  would  sepa- 
rate very  nearly  the  two  qualities  of  land  of  which  it 
is  composed.  The  front  on  the  river,  and  the  side 
next  Shipton,  are  the  best,  and  capable  of  every  kind 
of  culture.  The  parts  adjoining  Warwick  and  Simp- 
son are  low  and  swampy,  and  covered  with  cedar, 
and  other  wood  of  that  nature.  It  is  advantageously 
2 C 


26 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


watered  by  several  branches  of  the  Nicolet.  Some 
settlers  are  established  on  the  borders  of  these 
streams ; but  the  part  most  settled  is  in  front,  on 
the  St.  Francis,  where  many  industrious  farmers 
have  made  great  progress,  considering  the  short 
time  since  they  commenced  ; and  it  is  probable  their 
success  will  soon  attract  more. 

Lingwick.  20.  Is  situate  between  the  unsurveyed 
townships  of  Stratford  and  Hampden.  There  is 
some  little  obscurity  attached  to  this  township.  The 
following  is  the  account  given  of  it  by  the  surveyor- 
general,  who,  nevertheless,  is  by  no  means  clear  in 
his  description  of  its  situation.  Although  in  many 
parts  the  surface  is  allowed  to  be  irregular  or  rough, 
the  soil  is  generally  good.  Beech,  maple,  birch, 
spruce,  and  fir,  form  the  principal  woods  that  are 
produced.  A great  many  streams,  which  fall  into 
the  St.  Francis,  water  it  in  almost  all  directions.  In 
the  south-west  part,  cultivation  has  made  some  pro- 
gress; almost  every  kind  of  grain  is  produced,  and 
the  soil  is  fitted  to  the  cultivation  of  hemp  and  flax. 
It  is  intersected  by  many  roads,  which  communicate 
with  the  neighbouring  establishments,  as  well  as  that 
which  runs  into  Vermont. 

Marston.  27.  On  the  west  side  of  lake  Megantic, 
which  is  about  nine  miles  long,  and  two  miles  broad, 
and  is  well  stored  with  fish,  as  the  country  is  with 
game.  The  land  is  various,  being  sometimes  hilly, 
and  often  very  stony ; but  for  the  most  part  the  soil 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


27 


is  tolerably  good.  Many  places  are  proper  for  the 
growth  of  hemp  and  flax.  The  wood  is  a mixture 
of  maple,  fir,  hemlock,  cedar,  and  spruce.  Many 
streams  and  small  lakes,  besides  the  Megantic,  water 
it  abundantly,  and  on  whose  borders  are  excellent 
meadow  lands.  No  settlement  has  yet  been  made. 

Melbourne . 3.  Is  west  of  the  river  St.  Francis, 
and  the  soil  in  general  is  but  little  inferior  to  that  in 
the  township  of  Shipton,  of  which  Bouchette  says, 
“ It  is,  without  contradiction,  the  best  of  all  the 
townships  in  this  district.”  It  is  well  covered  with 
good  maple,  beech,  elm,  pine,  and  oak.  It  is  watered 
in  all  directions  by  streams  which  fall  into  the  St. 
Francis,  on  which  are  many  considerable  settlements 
that  have  made  great  progress.  Much  pot  and 
pearl  ash  is  made,  and  many  saw-mills  find  constant 
employment.  Roads  are  opened  to  the  neighbour- 
ing settlements  and  along  the  river.  Population 
about  550. 

Newport.  23.  Has  a varied  surface,  and  the  soil 
maybe  characterized  as  rather  good  than  bad.  The 
North  river  nearly  divides  it  from  east  to  west,  from 
which  the  land  rises  gently  on  both  sides.  Towards 
Clifton,  and  also  towards  Hampden,  it  is  hilly. 
There  are  numerous  streams  running  through  it, 
which  sufficiently  water  it,  and  some  swamps,  that 
are  described  as  capable  of  culture.  There  is  a po- 
pulation of  100  on  it,  who  have  cleared  upwards  o 
1000  acres,  and  have  a corn  and  a saw-mill,  asheries, 
C 2 


28 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


&c.  The  timber  is  of  good  sort  and  quality.  Slate 
and  blacklead  ore  has  been  found  in  it. 

Shipton.  4.  The  land  is  of  an  excellent  quality, 
and  almost  equally  good  throughout  the  township. 
Many  parts,  which  are  a little  elevated  above  the  rest, 
are  particularly  calculated  for  crops  which  require  a 
dry  and  fertile  soil.  The  timber  is  beech,  oak, 
maple,  birch,  and  pine,  mixed  with  inferior  wood, 
in  great  abundance.  It  is  exceedingly  well  watered 
by  a main  branch  of  the  Nicolet,  which  is  navigable 
from  hence  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  by  many 
small  streams,  which  fall  into  the  Nicolet  and  St. 
Francis,  and  form  a water  communication  to  almost 
all  parts  of  the  township.  Craig’s  road  runs  nearly 
through  the  centre,  and  other  roads  are  formed  and 
forming.  It  contains  the  villages  of  Richmond  and 
Interior;  a church,  four  corn-mills,  seven  saw  ditto, 
two  carding,  two  cloth,  and  one  fulling,  ditto  ; three 
tanneries,  hat  manufactory,  &c.  Altogether  this  is 
a thriving  and  important  township.  Its  population 
is  about  900  or  1000. 

Stanhope.  39.  On  the  boundary  line,  and  is  not 
surveyed. 

Stratford.  21.  Is  on  the  eastern  side  of  the 
district,  and  is  only  yet  a projected  township. 

Stoke.  14.  The  land  is  of  the  first  quality,  and 
adapted  to  all  the  routine  of  agriculture.  Some 
swamps  are  to  be  found,  but  they  are  neither  large 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


29 


nor  deep,  and  would  not  fail,  if  drained  with  care,  to 
make  good  meadows,  many  of  which  there  are 
already  in  different  parts.  It  is  well  watered  by 
many  rivers  and  currents,  which,  after  winding  about 
in  all  directions,  fall  into  the  St.  Francis.  Settle- 
ment has  made  but  little  progress,  and  there  are  no 
roads. 

TingwicJc.  5.  On  the  west  of  the  Nicolet  river. 
Not  yet  surveyed. 

Upton . — See  Montreal  District. 

Weedon.  16.  Only  projected. 

Westbury . 18.  Is  a small  triangular  township. 
The  soil  in  the  west  part,  towards  Ascot,  is  of  a 
quality  favourable  to  agriculture ; but  the  east  part 
is  of  a rude,  uneven  aspect,  very  inferior  soil,  and 
swampy.  The  timber  is  of  the  quality  to  be  ex- 
pected, viz.,  not  very  good,  except  in  the  first-named 
part.  The  St.  Francis  runs  through  it,  and  is  navi- 
gable for  small  boats;  and  a great  many  streams 
fall  into  it  in  this  township.  Some  lumbering  is 
carried  on,  and  settlement  has  commenced.  Has  a 
corn  and  saw  mill,  and  a population  of  60. 

Windsor.  9.  On  the  east  of  the  river  St.  Francis. 
It  is  a fine  tract,  with  a rich  and  excellent  soil,  varied 
so  as  to  suit  almost  all  kinds  of  culture,  but  espe- 
cially hemp  and  flax.  The  surface  is  elevated  in 
gentle  ridges,  and  a few  marshes  are  found,  but  they 
might  be  easily  drained,  and  converted  into  beau- 


30 


DISTRICT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS. 


tiful  meadows.  The  township  is  watered  by  two 
large  and  several  small  currents,  which  fall  into  the 
St.  Francis.  It  is  but  thinly  settled,  notwithstand- 
ing its  favourable  soil  and  situation,  which  is  attri- 
buted to  the  circumstance  of  the  whole  of  it  having 
been  granted  to  the  officers  and  privates  of  the 
militia  (Canadian),  for  their  services  in  1776;  and 
experience  has  proved  that  lands  so  granted  are  the 
last  to  advance.  Population  calculated  to  be  about 
150. 

fVhitton . 26.  Projected  only. 

Wooburn . 33.  In  the  disputed  territory. 

Wolfestown.  12.  The  north-west  part  of  this 
township  is  tolerably  good,  but  the  other  half  is  little 
but  a chain  of  rocky  heights,  good  for  nothing. 

Wootten.  10.  West  of  Wolfestown.  Not  yet 
surveyed. 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 

The  last  great  division  of  Lower  Canada  is  the 
district  of  Montreal,  having  the  already  described 
districts  of  Three  Rivers  and  St.  Francis  to  the 
east,  Upper  Canada  to  the  west,  the  States  of  New 
York  and  Vermont  to  the  south,  and  on  the  north, 
extending  to  the  territory  of  the  Hudson’s  Bay  Com- 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL.  31 

pany.  The  general  characteristic  of  the  settled 
portion  of  this  immense  tract  is  that  of  being  low 
and  level.  Towards  the  State  of  New  York,  it  is 
somewhat  mountainous,  and  two  or  three  moun- 
tains occur  on  the  east  side  of  the  Chambly  river ; 
in  the  north  section  of  this  district  there  is  a ridge 
of  mountains,  the  continuation  of  a chain,  commenc- 
ing about  30  miles  below  Quebec,  and  running 
along  in  a direction  west-south-west,  at  no  very 
great  distance  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  finishes  at 
the  river  Ottawa,  about  40  leagues  above  Montreal, 
that  is  about  the  township  of  Hull.  The  southern 
part  of  this  district  is  daily  becoming  of  more  im- 
portance from  the  advancing  settlement  of  the  coun- 
try, the  making  of  roads,  and  the  Chambly  canal, 
connecting  lake  Champlain  with  the  St.  Lawrence. 
The  northern  part,  particularly  those  townships 
fronting  the  river  Ottawa  up  to  JEIqtl,  where  the 
river  is  broken  by  two  falls,  one  of  26  feet  high, 
are  also  favourably  situate  and  must  become  valu- 
able. For  the  sake  of  clearness  and  also  to  avoid 
repetition,  we  shall  divide  this  district  into  north 
and  south,  each  division  including  all  the  townships 
on  the  north  or  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence  respec- 
tively. 

Abercrombie . 39.  North.  Quality  of  the  soil 
bad  and  not  worth  cultivating,  generally;  it  is  pretty 
well  watered,  and  in  some  parts,  some  good  land 
and  meadows  are  to  be  found. 


32 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


Aberford . 2.  North.  Fronting  the  river,  but 
high  up,  and  not  yet  surveyed. 

Acton . 50.  South.  Is  watered  by  two  larger 
branches  of  the  Yamaska  river.  The  land  is  low 
and  swampy.  No  part  is  yet  settled. 

Aldfield.  12.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Onslow. 
Not  surveyed. 

Amherst . 28.  North.  Quite  a rear  township, 
and  not  surveyed. 

Arundell.  29.  Adjoining  Amherst,  and  not  sur- 
veyed. 

i Harford.  South.  See  district  St.  Francis. 

Barnston . 67.  South.  On  the  boundary  line 
between  Canada  and  Vermont.  Where  the  surface 
of  this  township  presents  a succession  of  hill  and 
valley,  the  soil  is  for  the  most  part  good,  and  very 
favourable  for  the  cultivation  of  grain,  and  other 
ordinary  crops.  Some  marshes  are  found  in  the 
lower  parts  ; the  timber  is  of  almost  every  sort ; it 
is  well  watered  by  small  rivers  and  lakes,  and  has  a 
population  of  about  1600,  chiefly  settled  on  the 
western  side,  with  several  schools,  corn-mills,  saw- 
mills, &c. 

Beresford.  36.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Aber- 
crombie. Not  surveyed. 

Bolton.  60.  South.  Having  the  lake  Mem- 
phremagog  on  the  east.  The  surface  is  uneven  and 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


33 


a little  mountainous,  being  cut  by  a chain  of  heights 
from  north  to  south,  from  which  many  small  streams 
descend  east  to  the  lake,  and  west  to  the  river  Ya- 
rn ask  a.  The  lands  in  the  lower  parts  are  of  tolerable 
good  quality,  those  to  the  west  are  the  best.  It  is 
one  of  the  first-formed  townships,  and  has  a popu- 
lation of  1000,  with  a corn-mill,  five  saw-mills, 
several  schools,  asheries,  &c.,  and  has  some  roads 
communicating  with  the  other  townships. 

Brandon.  42.  North.  Is  situate  in  the  rear  of 
several  fertile  seigneuries,  and  in  rather  a favourable 
position,  but  wanting  roads ; most  of  the  land  is 
well  spoken  of,  though  towards  the  back  it  is  moun- 
tainous ; part  of  it  borders  on  the  lake  Maskinonge, 
which  is  well  stored  with  excellent  fish,  and  near  it 
about  20  settlers  have  fixed.  The  timber  is  mostly 
good,  particularly  the  pine. 

Bristol . 16.  North.  The  third  from  Hull,  and  a 
front  township.  It  is  but  little  known,  although  it 
has  33  settlers  on  it. 

Brome.  59.  South.  Part  of  the  land  in  this 
township  is  good,  but  the  rest  is  very  mountainous 
and  rocky ; the  best  part  is  toward  Lake  Brome  in 
the  south-east,  where  it  is  pretty  well  settled.  To 
the  north-west ; where  it  is  mountainous,  good  iron 
ore  is  found  in  abundance ; many  streams  fall  into 
the  lake,  which  present  many  opportunities  for  the 
erection  of  mills.  The  population  is  upwards  of 
1300,  with  seven  saw-mills,  five  schools,  &c. 

C 5 


u 


DISTRICT  Of  MONTREAL. 


Buckingham.  26.  North.  A front  township. 
The  four  first  ranges  surveyed.  Towards  the  river 
the  land  is  low,  (and  it  may  here  be  observed,  that 
the  first  range  of  lots  in  all  the  front  townships 
north,  are  subject  to  a flood,  spring  and  fall,  which 
renders  them  excellent  for  pasturage,  and  they  are 
not  without  tolerably  good  land  for  other  purposes.) 
Up  to  the  fourth  range  the  land  is  low  and  level,  and 
well  timbered ; beyond  this  it  rises  into  an  abrupt 
and  ridgy  surface  with  an  indifferent  soil,  frequently 
so  stony  and  rough  as  not  to  be  workable.  Many 
streams  descend  through  it  towards  the  Ottawa, 
near  whose  borders  is  a large  basin,  lying  for  some 
distance  parallel  to  the  river  and  running  some  way 
up.  Settlement  has  made  some  progress,  but  is 
rather  retarded  by  some  unsettled  lands  on  the 
second  range.  A corn-mill,  two  saw-mills,  a pot- 
tery, ashery,  &c.  are  established.  Population  270. 

Caenwood . 9.  North.  A back  township  not 
surveyed. 

Chatham.  34.  North.  Is  on  the  Ottawa,  about 
55  miles  from  Montreal,  and  is  the  first  town- 
ship arrived  at  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  The 
half  of  this  township  next  the  river  is  generally  level, 
with  gentle  rises,  on  which  the  maple  is  found,  and 
the  soil  is  adapted  to  the  production  of  grain,  with 
hemp  and  flax ; rich  meadows  also  occur.  The 
surface  of  the  back  portion  is  broken  and  rough. 
The  soil  generally  very  inferior  and  stony ; the  tim» 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


35 


ber  is  mostly  of  the  best  sort,  and  the  pines  and  oak 
are  fit  for  ship-building,  and  much  of  it  along  the 
north  river  is  cut  and  transmitted  to  market ; besides 
that  river,  it  is  well  watered  throughout  by  the 
West  river,  and  many  small  lakes  and  streams. 
The  main  road  from  Montreal  to  the  upper  town- 
ships runs  near  the  Ottawa,  and  there  are  two  other 
roads,  running  inwards  a considerable  way.  The 
first  range,  as  a matter  of  course,  is  the  best  settled ; 
the  fifth,  sixth,  and  seventh  ranges  are  unsettled, 
principally  owing  to  the  reserves  being  in  them  ; 
beyond  that  there  are  a few  settled.  The  population 
is  rather  above  1000.  There  is  a village  called 
Davisville,  two  schools,  three  saw-mills,  &c.  Ad- 
joining this  township  is  a small  tract  called  Chatham 
Gore,  part  of  which  only  has  been  surveyed.  The 
surface  is  mountainous;  but  much  of  the  land  is  fit 
for  culture  ; it  is  a clayey,  sandy  loam,  an  excellent 
soil  for  wheat  and  Indian  corn.  The  timber  is 
good.  It  has  several  small  lakes,  plentifully  stocked 
with  fine  fish,  and  has  three  pretty  good  roads  into 
the  seigneurie  of  Argenteuil  in  the  front.  The  set- 
tlers are  about  400,  all  Protestant  Irish  ; have  a 
church,  school,  tannery,  asheries,  &c. 

Chertsey.  38.  North.  Not  yet  surveyed,  but 
said  to  contain  some  considerable  extent  of  rich 
meadow  land. 

Chichester.  6.  North.  Not  surveyed. 

Clarendon . 15.  North.  The  last  township  on 


36 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


the  Ottawa,  having  settlers  upon  it ; they  are  about 
100,  with  a corn-mill,  a saw-mill,  ashery,  &c.  It  is 
150  miles  from  Montreal. 

Derry.  21.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Buckingham. 
Not  surveyed. 

Dunham.  63.  South.  Near  the  boundary  line, 
and  having  the  seigneurie  of  St.  Armand  between  it 
and  lake  Champlain.  The  high  lands  are  a little 
mountainous,  and  have  only  a thin  soil  on  rock,  but 
in  the  level  parts  the  soil  is  generally  a rich  black 
mould,  mixed  here  and  there  with  sand.  It  pro- 
duces all  kinds  of  grain  in  abundance,  and  in  many 
places  is  very  fit  for  hemp  and  flax ; very  little 
swampy  land,  and  that  easily  drained  and  cleared. 
It  is  well  watered,  and  has  many  excellent  roads  to 
the  neighbouring  settlements,  and  into  the  State  of 
Vermont ; it  is  almost  all  settled,  and  contains  a 
village  called  Frelitzburg,  with  a church  and  chapel, 
and  25  houses.  The  population  in  the  whole  is 
about  2130;  two  saw-mills,  corn-mill,  carding  and 
fulling-mills,  &c. 

Eardley.  23.  North.  Next  Hull.  The  river  in 
the  front  of  it  is  very  wide,  and  is  called  the  Chau- 
dier,  or  Kettle  lake.  The  land  from  the  river  to  the 
centre  is  level,  with  small  elevations,  and  the  quality 
is  excellent,  and  fit  for  all  kinds  of  grain,  as  well  as 
hemp  and  flax.  From  thence  to  the  back  it  is  hilly ; 
the  front  ranges  are  well  watered,  and  there  are 
some  small  lakes  in  the  interior,  but  no  large  river : 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


37 


the  settlers  do  not  amount  to  above  160,  and  they 
are  mostly  from  Hull,  the  adjoining  township  ; it  is 
considered  to  be  good  location,  as  the  Yankees 
would  say. 

Ely . 53.  South.  The  land  in  this  township  is 
generally  of  a medium  quality ; the  lower  lands  are 
rather  wet,  but  are  not  useless,  and  the  best  sorts  of 
hard  and  black  timber  is  found  on  it ; there  are  a 
few  settlers  on  it,  and  it  is  tolerably  well  watered. 

Esher , 4.  North.  Not  surveyed. 

Farnham.  58.  South.  The  land  is  of  good 
quality  generally,  though  it  presents  a great  variety. 
The  north-west  contains  swamps  of  large  extent ; 
the  best  parts  are  wooded  with  beech,  elm,  and 
maple  ; its  situation,  however,  has  raised  it  to  im- 
portance ; it  is  watered  by  some  large  branches  of 
the  Yamaska,  and  has  some  roads  in  various  direc- 
tions, both  towards  Montreal  and  Vermont ; there 
are  two  churches,  six  schools,  thirteen  saw-mills, 
four  corn-mills,  three  carding  and  three  fulling 
mills,  thirteen  asheries,  brewery,  distilleries,  and 
other  factories. 

Godmanchester.  45.  South.  With  its  front  on 
the  St.  Lawrence,  where  it  expands,  and  is  called 
lake  St.  Francis.  A small  portion  of  it  at  the  back  is 
on  the  boundary  line  between  Canada  and  the  State 
of  New  York  ; it  has  about  10J  miles  of  frontage  to 
the  lake,  and  is  12J  deep  in  the  broadest  part.  The 
front  lands  and  also  those  near  the  Chateauguay  river, 


38  DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 

which  divides  this  and  the  township  of  Hinchin- 
brook,  are  low,  and  in  some  places  rather  wet,  but 
the  soil  is  generally  good  and  rises  as  it  approaches 
the  interior,  where  it  is  of  superior  quality.  The 
timber  is  very  good,  and  much  of  it  has  been  cut  and 
taken  to  market.  There  is  a road  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Chateauguay,  leading  into  New  York,  but 
besides  that,  not  much  attention  has  been  paid  to 
the  roads.  The  village  of  Godmanchester  is  on  the 
river  La  Guerre.  The  population  in  the  township 
was  stated,  in  1828,  to  be  1413,  but  a great  many 
settlers  have  proceeded  to  it  since  that  time.  It 
has  five  saw-mills,  corn-mills,  asheries,  &c.,  and 
must  be  regarded  as  a valuable  tract. 

Granby . 54.  South.  Land  in  general  com- 
posed of  a blackish  marl  covered  in  some  places 
with  fine  vegetable  soil,  which  produces  good  crops 
of  wheat  and  other  grain ; some  parts  are  particu- 
larly calculated  for  hemp  and  others  for  flax  ; the 
timber  is  beech,  elm,  walnut,  maple,  pine,  and 
some  oak,  and  is  tolerably  watered ; not  yet  settled 
to  any  extent. 

Grandison . 35.  North.  A rear  township  not 
yet  surveyed. 

Grenville . 33.  North.  Is  the  second  township 
up  the  Ottawa ; the  surface  is  rather  mountainous, 
but  the  small  hills  and  the  valleys  present  good 
land,  and  in  many  parts  it  is  rich  enough  for  hemp 
and  flax ; some  extensive  valleys  along  the  Beaver 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


39 


Meadow  Creek,  and  Red  River,  present  the  most 
advantageous  situations  for  settlers ; it  is  well  wa- 
tered with  many  rivers,  and  some  lakes  well  filled 
with  excellent  trout ; limestone  is  found  plentifully 
on  the  river  Calumet,  and  a black  lead  mine  on  that 
river  has  been  worked.  The  east  section  is  the  best 
settled,  and  those  who  have  devoted  their  attention 
to  the  raising  stock  have  been  very  successful ; 
indeed  the  country  seems  particularly  adapted  to 
that  purpose.  The  canal,  which  takes  the  name  of 
the  township,  passes  through  it  to  avoid  some  dan- 
gerous rapids  in  its  front ; the  population,  including 
one  village  of  50  inhabitants,  is  about  1900,  with  a 
corn-mill,  three  saw-mills,  three  asheries,  a pottery, 
&c. 

Harrington . 31.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Gren- 
ville, and  not  surveyed. 

Hastings . 3.  North.  Last  but  two,  and  not 
surveyed. 

Hatley . 61.  South.  Lies  east  of  the  north  end 
of  lake  Memphremagog;  the  land  varies  very  much, 
the  surface  being  irregular  and  hilly  ; the  soil  to- 
wards Ascot  and  Compton  is  good,  but  it  is  superior 
towards  the  lake,  and  on  all  these  parts  of  it  there 
are  many  settlements ; towards  the  middle  it  is  rough 
and  swampy.  The  lake  Tomefobi  is  in  the  eastern 
part,  eight  miles  by  one,  and  abounds  with  an  excel- 
lent variety  of  fish  ; the  whole  is  well  watered,  and 
has  many  roads  through  it  to  the  adjacent  town- 


40 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


ships,  and  communicating  with  those  into  Vermont. 
The  settlers  amount  to  1500  ; with  seven  corn-mills, 
eleven  saw-mills,  eight  schools,  six  asheries,  &c. 

Hemmingford.  47.  South.  On  the  line  between 
Canada  and  New  York.  This  township  is  divided 
into  moderate  lots,  and  Bouchette  says  that  a part  is 
reserved  by  the  Crown  to  be  let  on  lease.  Although 
the  surface  is  very  irregular,  and  it  is  traversed  by 
high  hills,  having  but  a thin  coating  of  soil,  there 
are  many  parts  where  the  soil  is  of  a fertile  and 
superior  quality.  Some  swamps  occur  in  the  north- 
east and  north-west  parts,  thickly  covered  with  the 
wood  usually  found  in  them.  Upon  the  hills  the 
timber  is  of  good  quality,  and  in  the  second  range 
the  oak  and  pine  are  very  large,  and  better  than 
usual.  It  is  well  watered  by  the  river  Montreal, 
which  falls  into  the  Chambly,  (or  Richelieu)  and 
by  the  river  Chateauguay,  which  falls  into  the  St. 
Lawrence.  The  roads,  though  numerous,  are  not 
highly  spoken  of  as  summer  routes ; there  are  many 
corn  and  saw-mills,  &c.  on  the  streams,  and  the 
population  is  about  1000. 

Hinchinbrook . 46.  South.  Lies  to  the  west  of 
the  last  named,  also  on  the  frontier  line ; it  is  not  so 
well  divided  as  Hemmingford,  the  reserves  being  in 
large  tracts,  or  blocks,  as  they  are  called;  the  sur- 
face is  somewhat  like  its  neighbouring  township. 
Towards  the  Chateauguay  there  are  fine  valleys  and 
meadows,  well  watered  by  the  branches  of  the  river; 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


41 


there  are  also  many  roads,  but  not  of  the  first  order. 
Much  timber  of  fine  quality  has  been  cut  and  sent 
to  market  by  the  Chateauguay.  The  population  ex- 
ceeds 1200,  and  there  are  two  villages,  Hemming- 
ford  and  Huntingdon,  with  two  corn-mills,  seven 
saw-mills,  &c. 

Howard.  30.  North.  Only  projected. 

Huddersfield . 11.  North.  In  the  rear^of  Bristol, 
and  not  surveyed. 

Hull.  24.  North.  This  is  a large  township 
with  its  front  to  the  river,  and  nearly  opposite  to 
Bytown,  where  the  Rideau  canal  enters  the  Ottawa. 
The  mountains  in  this  part  approach  the  river,  and 
consequently  the  back  part  of  Hull  is  but  indifferent 
for  tillage,  though  it  is  represented  as  a good  grazing 
country.  From  the  sixth  range  (about  one-third)  to 
the  river,  it  has  a soil  of  exceeding  good  quality, 
producing  fine  crops  of  grain.  There  are  not  many 
swamps,  and  those  but  small : the  timber  on  the 
hills  is  very  good,  and  in  great  variety  ; the  oak  and 
pine  being  very  fit  for  naval  purposes.  A rich  bed 
of  iron  ore  has  been  found,  but  is  not  yet  worked  ; 
the  Indians  have  brought  down  some  black  lead 
ore,  which  they  procured  on  the  Gatineau,  a river 
which,  coming  from  the  north,  runs  through  Hull 
and  falls  into  the  Ottawa,  in  the  township  of  Tem- 
pleton to  the  east.  Limestone,  marble  and  granite 
are  abundant  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Gatineau, 


42 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


This  township  was  commenced  in  1800  by  Mr.  P. 
Wright,  an  American  by  birth,  but  of  English 
parents,  from  the  county  of  Kent.  In  1806,  he 
obtained  a grant  of  13,700  acres.  The  progress  made 
under  the  superintendence  of  this  enterprising  indb 
vidual  is  truly  astonishing,  and  is  a proof  of  what 
might  be  accomplished  in  a thousand  instances  by 
perseverance  and  the  employment  of  capital.  There 
is  on  it  the  village  of  Wright,  containing  many  good 
houses,  a church,  school,  tavern,  &c.  The  township 
contains  lime-kilns,  brick-kilns,  saw-mills,  corn- 
mills,  distilleries,  &c.  The  population  exceeds 
1100  or  1200,  besides  having  sent  many  settlers 
into  some  of  the  neighbouring  townships. 

Kildare.  43.  North.  Situate  in  front  of  Chert- 
sey,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  seigneuries  ; partly  set- 
tled by  some  Canadians,  who  hold  the  land  on  the 
same  tenure  as  in  the  seigneuries.  The  soil  is  said  to 
be  excellent  in  the  greater  part,  and  the  position  of 
the  township  is  favourable ; most  of  the  timber  is 
good,  and  the  river  L’Assomption,  with  some  inferior 
streams,  water  it. 

Kilkenny.  40.  North.  Is  a small  tract  : the 
account  given  of  it  is  rather  unfavourable,  but  it  is 
said  that  it  has  some  good  land  along  the  north 
river.  The  first  settlers  abandoned  it  for  the  town- 
ship of  Acton,  on  the  south  ; there  are  now  a few 
Irish  upon  it. 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


43 


Kirby . 1.  The  last  township  on  the  north  side, 
not  yet  surveyed. 

Lochaber.  27.  North.  It  is  a front  township, 
and  towards  the  river  is  very  low  and  often  flooded, 
but,  in  the  opinion  of  Bouchette,  capable  of  being 
banked  and  converted  into  good  meadows.  A little 
towards  the  interior  there  is  good  convertible  land, 
but  beyond,  it  is  mountainous  and  barren.  Most  of 
the  timber  is  good,  the  oak  and  the  pine  fit  for  the 
ship-builder.  Many  rivers  and  streams  run  over  it, 
on  which  the  timber  could  be  floated,  and  some  are 
navigable  for  boats.  The  settlers  are  chiefly  Scotch, 
but  it  does  not  appear  to  have  yet  attained  a large 
degree  of  prosperity. 

Lichfield . 14.  North.  A front  township,  and 
next  to  Clarendon.  Not  surveyed. 

Mansfield . 13.  North.  The  next  to  Lichfield. 
Not  surveyed. 

Marsham.  18.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Eardley. 
Not  surveyed. 

Milton . 51.  South.  The  surface  of  this  town- 
ship is  low  and  swampy,  and  requires  a continued 
system  of  draining  to  render  it  useful ; yet  there  is 
some  quantity  of  good  grass  land  in  it. 

Onslow . 17.  North.  The  third  and  fourth 
ranges  of  this  township  possess  to  appearance  a 
good  soil,  the  rest,  both  next  the  river  and  in  the 


44 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


rear,  are  stony,  poor  and  swampy.  About  30  set- 
tlers are  on  it,  with  a saw-mill. 

Orford.  57.  South.  Is  a little  north  of  Lake 
Memphremagog,  and  has  the  village  of  Sherbrook 
at  its  north-east  angle.  The  general  aspect  of  the 
country  is  rough  and  mountainous,  and  almost 
wholly  unfit  for  culture.  In  the  interior  are 
some  lakes,  which  continue  into  the  township  of 
Brompton.  Much  good  timber  is  found  upon  it.  A 
road  is  to  be  formed  through,  connecting  some  of 
the  large  roads,  and  the  advantages  of  its  locality 
has  attracted  some  settlers,  who  attend  principally 
to  the  feeding  cattle,  but  also  raise  some  grain. 

Pontefract.  8.  North.  A rear  township,  not 
surveyed. 

Portland.  20.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Templeton, 
reported  to  be  mountainous  and  rocky,  but  not 
known  with  accuracy ; the  river  Blanche  traverses  a 
part  of  it. 

Potion.  65.  South.  Bounded  on  the  east  by 
Lake  Memphremagog.  Although  hilly  and  irregular, 
the  land  is  generally  good,  and  presents  good  situa- 
tions for  the  agriculturist.  The  river  Missisqui  and 
its  branches  water  it  well,  and  on  the  borders  of  that 
river  and  on  the  lake,  where  the  soil  is  very  good, 
there  are  many  settlers  ; still  it  does  not  appear  to 
have  much  advanced  in  the  last  ten  years.  There  are 
no  leading  roads  yet  made ; the  population  just 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


45 


exceeds  800,  with  four  saw-mills,  carding-mills, 
&c.  Bog  and  mountain  iron  ores  are  found. 

Ponsonby.  44.  North.  Not  surveyed. 

Rawdon.  41.  North.  Between  Kilkenny  and 
Kildare  ; mountainous  and  rough,  but  the  soil 
adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  grain  in  many  parts, 
and  in  some  to  hemp  and  flax  : it  is  well  watered 
and  has  several  good  roads  through  it.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  850,  chiefly  Irish,  with  four  corn-mills, 
three  saw-mills,  eight  asheries,  &c. 

Rippon.  22.  North.  In  the  rear  of  Lochaber. 
Not  surveyed. 

Roocton . 52.  South.  Only  the  southern  part  is 
surveyed ; the  land  is  good,  and  though  the  low 
parts  are  wet,  they  are  capable  of  culture,  and  pro- 
duce hard  and  black  wood ; the  branches  of  the 
river  Yamaska,  and  other  streams,  water  it;  there 
are  but  few  settlers  yet  upon  it. 

Sheen.  5.  North.  Not  surveyed. 

Shefford.  55.  South.  The  face  of  the  country 
in  this  township  is  uneven,  and  towards  the  west  it 
is  mountainous.  The  soil  is  almost  through  the 
whole  very  fertile,  but  the  heights  are  too  stony  to 
be  of  much  value ; the  south-east  parts  towards 
Bolton  are  the  best,  and  the  best  settled.  Here 
there  is  a village  called  Frost  Village,  of  25  houses 
and  120  inhabitants;  it  is  well  watered  by  many 
branches  of  the  Yamaska  and  other  streams,  on 


46 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


whose  borders  are  fine  meadows  and  grazing  land, 
and  it  is  intersected  by  many  routes  into  the  adjoin- 
ing townships.  The  entire  population  is  little  less 
than  1000,  with  two  churches,  eight  schools,  saw 
and  corn  mills,  &c. 

Sherrington.  48.  South.  Is  an  irregular  tract, 
nearer  to  Montreal  than  any  other  township.  It 
offers  great  variety  both  in  the  quality  of  the  soil 
and  the  timber;  in  the  south-west  the  land  rises 
gently,  and  in  some  places  forms  considerable  emi- 
nences. In  this  part  there  are  various  sorts  of  soil, 
but  almost  all  tolerably  good  ; thickly  covered  with 
beech,  elm,  maple,  and  white  ash.  There  are  many 
swamps  to  the  north-east,  some  covered  with  cedar, 
and  others  with  black  ash,  which  last  would  soon 
become  cultivable,  and,  on  draining,  form  very 
fine  meadows.  The  river  La  Tortu  winds  across 
the  township,  and  with  many  small  streams  water  it 
well.  From  the  eleventh  to  the  fourteenth  range  in- 
clusive, the  land  is  settled  by  Canadians,  besides 
many  English  settlers  on  the  eighth  and  ninth 
ranges.  A Mr.  Languedoc  has  erected  a hemp-mill, 
and  is  prosecuting  the  culture  of  hemp.  The  popu- 
lation exceeds  3150,  and  from  its  vicinity  to  the 
populous  city  of  Montreal,  and  other  advantages,  it 
will  no  doubt  increase  in  prosperity.  A road  passes 
through  it  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain, by  Hemmingford  ; and  others,  which  join  the 
route  from  La  Prairie  to  St.  John’s. 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


47 


Stanbridge.  62.  South.  Presents  a great  va- 
riety of  soil  and  timber.  The  east  part  is  low,  and 
rather  swampy.  Near  the  north  end  of  lake  Cham- 
plain, which  is  there  called  Missisqui  Bay,  and  by 
the  river  Brochet,  the  soil  is  chiefly  clay,  mixed  with 
sand.  To  the  east  it  rises,  and  is  composed  of  a 
rich  black  and  yellow  marl,  with  a little  sand.  The 
river  Brochet  and  its  numerous  branches  sufficiently 
water  it,  and  drive  many  corn  and  saw  mills.  It 
has  also  many  roads,  running  in  all  directions,  the 
two  principal  ones  running  south  into  the  State  of 
Vermont.  It  is  well  settled,  particularly  to  the 
north-east.  The  population  is  about  1800,  with  a 
village,  a school,  four  corn-mills,  nine  saw  ditto,  &c. 

Stanstead.  66.  South.  On  the  east  border  of 
lake  Memphremagog,  and  the  State  of  Vermont  on 
the  south.  It  is  by  far  the  best  of  the  townships  on 
the  frontier,  as  well  by  its  situation  on  the  lake,  as 
by  the  excellence  of  the  soil  and  timber ; the  latter 
is  the  best  hard  woods.  It  contains  many  uplands, 
some  of  them  rather  high.  The  south  and  easterly 
parts  are  well  settled ; and  those  along  the  shores 
of  this  fine  lake  are  particularly  flourishing.  It  is 
watered  by  many  streams  and  currents,  which  are 
applied  to  mill- work.  The  high  road  from  Quebec 
to  Vermont  passes  through;  and  there  are  many 
others  of  less  importance.  It  contains  two  villages  ; 
Georgeville,  near  the  lake,  and  Stanstead,  near  the 
boundary  line,  with  a church,  nine  corn-mills, 


48  DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 

eighteen  saw  ditto,  seven  carding  ditto,  fifteen 
schools,  a foundery,  asheries,  &c. 

Stukely.  56.  South.  Although  the  surface  of 
this  township  is  rough,  the  land  in  many  parts  is 
but  little  under  the  medium  quality.  It  is  watered 
by  streams  that  fall  into  the  Yamaska,  and  which 
take  their  rise  among  the  hills  about  which  they 
wind.  The  population  has  not  reached  quite  300. 

Sutton.  64.  South.  On  the  boundary  line ; is 
composed  generally  of  good  land,  on  which  the 
operations  of  agriculture  may  be  pursued  to  advan- 
tage. It  has  some  swamps,  but  they  are  easily  to 
be  drained,  and  converted  into  good  meadows.  It 
is  watered  by  the  river  Missisqui,  which  crosses  the 
south-east  angle,  and  by  many  small  rivers.  There 
are  many  roads  in  different  directions.  Population 
about  1000,  with  two  corn-mills,  three  saw  ditto,  &c. 
Iron  ore  is  found,  and  a forge  is  erected. 

Templeton.  25.  North,  adjoining  Hull.  To- 
wards the  Ottawa  the  land  lies  rather  low,  but  the 
soil  is  tolerably  good,  and  favourable  to  the  culture 
of  grain  and  roots.  Farther  back,  there  is  some 
very  good  land  on  gentle  eminences.  There  is  a 
road  in  the  front  of  the  township,  along  which,  in 
the  south-east  quarter,  some  settlements  are  made ; 
the  settlers  at  present,  are  not  above  60.  It  is 
well  watered  by  the  rivers  Gatineau  and  Blanche, 
and  some  small  streams. 

Thorne.  10.  North,  in  the  rear  of  Clarendon. 
Not  yet  surveyed. 


DISTRICT  OF  MONTREAL. 


49 


Upton.  49.  South.  Is  an  irregular  shaped 
township  on  the  river  St.  Francis.  The  land  is  low 
and  flat,  with  large  swamps,  covered  with  cedar  and 
tamarack.  Upon  the  St.  Francis  and  other  rivers 
that  run  through  it,  are  some  patches  of  land  which, 
if  cultivated,  would  produce  good  crops  of  grain  ; 
but  in  general  the  soil  is  not  favourable.  There  are, 
however,  about  280  settlers  on  it,  and  a road  runs 
through  it. 

Wakefield.  19.  North,  in  the  rear  of  Hull.  Not 
surveyed. 

Waltham,  7.  North.  Not  yet  surveyed. 

Wentworth.  32.  North,  in  the  rear  of  Chatham. 
Is  reported  unfit  for  arable  operations,  except  in  the 
front  adjoining  Chatham,  where  the  land  is  tolerably 
good ; but  no  part  of  it  is  settled.  The  timber  is 
good,  and  may  be  brought  to  a market  by  the  North 
river,  which,  with  other  streams,  waters  the  town- 
ship. 

Wexford . 37.  North,  and  not  yet  surveyed. 


2 


D 


50 


* UPPER  CANADA. 

Before  proceeding  briefly  to  notice  the  leading 
points  of  consideration  in  each  township  as  they 
occur,  it  may  be  allowed  to  call  the  attention  to  the 
extent  of  the  two  fresh-water  Seas,  and  the  St.  Law- 
rence, along  which  the  province  stretches  upwards 
of  600  miles  ; and  it  would  be  almost  an  insult  to  do 
more  than  merely  point  the  attention  of  an  English- 
man to  the  immense  importance  of  water  communi- 
cation throughout  a country,  and  with  the  ocean. 
In  England,  the  outlay  of  millions  upon  millions 
has  effected  that  which,  in  Canada,  is  provided 
upon  an  infinitely  grander  scale,  almost  fit  for  use. 
And  if  canals  are  so  valuable  in  an  old  and  thickly 
peopled  country,  where  the  roads  have  been  increas- 
ing and  consolidating  for  ages,  how  much  more  so 
when  these  last  cannot  be  supposed  to  exist  for 
generations  to  come  in  anything  like  the  proportion 
they  do  in  England  ! 

It  is,  perhaps,  not  worth  while  to  do  more  than 
allude  to  a line  of  not  less  extent  along  the  river 
Ottawa,  lake  Nipissing,  the  French  river,  and  the 
eastern  shore  of  lake  Huron.  Little  of  this  line  is 
at  present  known  ; but  there  is  no  doubt  that,  when 
the  country  on  the  first-mentioned  line  is  full,  this 


UPPER  CANADA 


51 


latter,  and  the  tract  which  it  incloses,  will  be  found 
worthy  of  notice.  This  may  be  the  proper  place  for 
again  considering  the  great  importance  of  fixing  on 
land  as  near  a navigable  water  as  can  be  effected,  for 
the  easy  transmission  of  the  produce  to  market,  & c. 


EASTERN  .DISTRICT. 

This  is  the  first  district,  in  the  Upper  Province,  on 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  surface  is  level,  but  not  low, 
except  towards  the  rivers,  by  which  it  is  intersected. 
The  St.  Lawrence  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  only, 
for  about  30  miles  from  its  eastern  end  to  Cornwall. 
From  that  point,  along  the  remainder  of  the  frontage, 
it  is  broken  by  rapids,  which  can  only  be  passed  in 
small  boats,  and  with  great  labour  in  the  upward 
course,  while  in  the  downward  course,  towards 
Montreal,  they  are  carried  with  alarming  velocity, 
and  considerable  risk,  against  which  an  insurance 
may  be  effected  with  a company  at  Montreal,  at  one 
and  a half  or  two  per  cent. 

The  front  townships  of  this  and  several  other  dis- 
tricts are  settled  to  some  extent  by  those  who  adhered 
to  the  British  cause  in  the  revolutionary  war,  and 
their  descendants.  The  name  by  which  these  per- 
sons are  known  and  spoken  of  in  Canada  is,  U.  E. 
D 2 


52 


UPPER  CANADA. 


Loyalists,  a term  that  will  be  frequently  heard  in 
travelling  up  the  country. 

The  district  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Glen- 
gary,  Stormont,  and  Dundas,  each  sending  two 
members  to  the  provincial  parliament.  The  popula- 
tion, at  the  return  in  1830,  was  19,755.  The  return 
of  the  amount  of  assessable  property  was  incomplete. 
The  Dundas  Street  (or  road)  passes  through  it,  near 
the  river. 

Charlottenburg.  11.  A front  township.  Soil  re- 
ported to  be  a red  loam,  with  clay  and  stone.  It  is 
well  watered  by  the  river  Aux  Raisins.  Has  several 
grist  and  saw  mills,  and  fronts  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, which  is  here  called  lake  St.  Francis,  and 
is  uninterrupted  by  rapids  for  about  40  miles.  Dun- 
das-street  runs  along  the  front;  and  steam-boats 
run  upon  the  lake  St.  Francis. 

Cornwall . 10.  Soil  similar  to  the  last.  The 
river  Aux  Raisins,  with  its  branches,  water  it.  The 
rising  town  of  Cornwall  is  at  the  eastern  extremity. 
This  township  fronts  the  St.  Lawrence ; but  nearly 
along  the  whole  it  has  the  formidable  rapid  of  the 
Long  Saut,  making  it  necessary  to  carry  the  produce 
intended  for  the  lower  market  to  Cornwall  by  land. 
The  Dundas  Street  traverses  it  in  front.  Has  many 
mills  in  it. 

Finch.  3.  A back  township.  The  land  generally 
may  be  called  good.  The  front  part  is  a black  loam, 
but  the  rear  is  rather  sandy,  and  it  is  but  thinly 


EASTERN  DISTRICT. 


53 


settled.  The  river  of  La  Petite  Nation  (called  the 
Nation,  for  shortness),  crosses  the  back  part,  and  runs 
into  the  Ottawa.  On  it  there  is  a saw-mill  and  a 
grist-mill. 

Kenyon.  5.  A rear  township,  with  a good  soil  of 
loam  and  clay.  It  is  well  watered  by  small  streams, 
but,  being  level,  has  few  opportunities  for  mill-seats. 

Lochiel.  6.  Also  a rear  township.  It  is  well 
settled.  The  land  in  front  is  low  and  stony.  In  the 
rear  it  is  rich  and  good.  Watered  by  the  rivers  La 
Grasse  and  De  Lisle,  on  which  there  are  grist  and 
saw  mills.  A road  leading  from  the  town  of  Corn- 
wall to  the  Ottawa  runs  across  this  township.  The 
lands  in  this  township,  which  belong  to  the  Canada 
company,  are  described  as  being  rather  wet. 

Lancaster . 12.  A front  township  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  where  it  is  navigable,  and  on  the  bound- 
ary line  between  the  two  provinces.  Generally  low 
land,  but  good.  Soil,  clay  and  loam.  Well  settled. 
The  rivers  Baudet,  De  l’lsle,  and  other  smaller 
streams,  water  it,  on  which  there  are  mills.  Dundas- 
street  runs  through  it,  somewhat  removed  from  the 
St.  Lawrence.  Some  of  the  Canada  company’s  land 
in  the  ninth  range  or  concession  is  described  as 
being  of  indifferent  quality. 

Matilda.  7.  Is  a front  township.  Soil  mostly 
productive.  Black  loam,  clay,  and  sand.  A brancii 
of  the  Nation  river  runs  through  it  at  the  back. 


54 


EASTERN  DISTRICT, 


The  St.  Lawrence  in  front  is  rapid,  but  from  that 
cause  may  be  made  use  of  in  parts  for  mill  work ; 
and  there  are  already  two. 

Mountain . 1.  Is  in  the  rear  of  the  last-men- 
tioned.  The  land  is  reported  to  be  generally  excel- 
lent,— mixed  loam  and  clay.  The  river  Nation  runs 
in  the  front,  and  branches  of  that  river  run  through 
it.  In  the  front  are  some  thriving  settlements, 
with  mills,  and  tolerable  roads  for  such  anew  coun- 
try. The  value  of  these  last  two  townships  will  be 
increased  if  a water  communication  can  be  effected 
between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Nation,  which 
has  been  contemplated. 

Osnabruck,  or  Osnaburg . 9.  This  is  a front  town- 
ship, next  above  Cornwall.  The  front  part  is  sandy, 
but  farther  back  has  a good  soil  of  loam  and  clay. 
Is  watered  by  the  river  Aux  Raisins,  and  has  two 
mills  on  a creek  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Dundas-street 
runs  through  its  front. 

Roxborough . 4.  Much  of  this  township  is  swampy  : 
soil  is  a black  loam  and  clay,  and  part  is  stony  to 
the  westward.  A branch  of  each  of  the  rivers  Aux 
Raisins  and  Nation  take  their  rise  in  it,  but  other- 
wise it  is  but  scantily  watered.  In  the  front  there 
are  a few  settlers,  with  a grist  and  a saw  mill. 

Williamsburg . 8.  In  front,  where  it  is  well 
settled,  and  partially  so  through  great  part,  gene- 
rally  good  land ; watered  by  some  creeks  ; but  no 


EASTERN  DISTRICT. 


55 


river  of  any  consequence,  nor  mills  except  in  front. 
Dundas  Road  runs  through  it  near  the  river. 

Winchester . 2.  At  the  back  of  the  last  named. 
Land  in  general  good  ; soil,  loam  mixed  with  sand  ; 
swampy  in  parts ; but  very  few  settlers  on  it,  and  of 
course  has  no  roads : has  only  a saw-mill  at  the 
corner  next  Osnabruek.  The  river  Nation  crosses  it, 
which  in  winter  serves  as  a road  to  the  Ottawa. 


JOHNSTOWN  DISTRICT. 

This  district  is  w est  of  the  last,  and  fronts  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which,  for  the  greatest  part,  is  free  of 
rapids;  so  that  the  navigation  is  uninterrupted  to 
Kingston,  the  principal  commercial  town  in  the  pro- 
vince, and  every  part  of  Lake  Ontario ; besides 
which,  the  Rideau  Canal  runs  through  most  of  the 
back  townships.  As  this  canal  is  principally  a con- 
tinuation of  lakes  and  rivers,  it  is  to  be  expected  that 
there  is  no  complaint  of  want  of  water.  The  author 
of  ‘Statistical  Sketches  of  Upper  Canada,’  says, 

‘ The  greater  part  of  this  district  and  the  Bathurst 
district  is  perhaps  the  least  productive  region  in  the 
whole  province,  and  probably  would  not  have  been 
settled  half  so  well  had  it  not  been  for  fortuitous  cir- 
cumstances.’ However,  the  character  of  each  town- 
ship, as  given  by  the  corporation  inspectors,  follows  ; 


56 


JOHNSTOWN  DISTRICT. 


and  the  advantageous  position  it  occupies  will  at 
once  be  seen  on  the  map,  which,  together  with  the 
amount  of  population,  would  seem  to  indicate,  that, 
if  the  soil  is  not  of  the  very  first  quality,  there  are  some 
other  advantages  which  are  equivalent.  Between 
the  Rideau  Lake  in  the  townships  of  Burgess  and 
Elmsley  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  much  of  the  ground 
is  low  and  marshy ; and  it  is  here  that  the  fever  and 
ague  is  likely  to  dispute  possession  with  the  settlers. 
The  front  and  east  part  are  the  best  settled.  It  is 
divided  into  the  counties  of  Grenville  and  Leeds, 
each  of  which  sends  two  members  to  Parliament. 
The  population  was,  in  1830,  20,417  ; and  the 
assessment  250,964 /. 

Augusta.  17.  A front  township  ; has  a good  soil 
for  the  most  part.  The  town  of  Prescot,  a place  of 
considerable  trade  and  ready  market  for  produce,  is 
in  it,  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  here  ceases  to  be 
interrupted  with  rapids.  Good  roads  to  the  back, 
besides  the  Bundas  Road  in  front,  and  a ferry  across 
to  the  American  town  of  Ogdensburg. 

Bastard . 8.  The  soil  of  this  township  is  described 
as  generally  good.  The  Rideau  Canal  runs  through 
it  diagonally,  thereby  giving  it  a value  which  needs 
not  to  be  enlarged  upon. 

Burgess.  2.  Is  of  an  indifferent  cast  altogether. 
The  Rideau  Lake  covers  a considerable  part  of  its 
southern  section. 

Crosby  {north).  1.  Quite  in  the  rear.  The  soil 


JOHNSTOWN  DISTRICT. 


57 


is  good,  but  it  does  not  possess  any  large  stream  : 
however,  when  more  settled,  and  roads  made  to  the 
canal,  it  cannot  be  said  to  be  in  a bad  or  very  indif- 
ferent position. 

Crosby  (south).  7.  Lies  in  front  of  the  last 
named.  Its  soil  is  pronounced  to  be  good.  It  has 
no  leading  stream,  but,  like  North  Crosby,  it  has  a 
small  lake  or  two  in  it,  and  its  position  is  certainly 
better,  as  the  Rideau  Canal  runs  through  part  of  it. 

Edwardsburg . 18.  A front  township  on  the  St. 

Lawrence,  which,  however,  is  not  navigable  for 
steam-boats  in  its  front.  It  is  well  settled  next  the 
river,  where  the  town  of  Johnstown,  the  capital  of 
the  district,  is  situate  : joins  the  township  of  Au- 
gusta, with  the  town  of  Prescot  near  its  boundary, 
and  possesses  a good  soil. 

Elizabeth  Town.  16.  In  front,  joining  Augusta  ; 
possesses  a good  soil,  and  free  navigation  in  front ; 
is  rapdily  settling  and  improving.  In  this  township 
is  the  town  of  Brockville,  which  has  a population  of 
1130,  and  returns  a member  to  Parliament.  It  is 
perhaps  the  best  built  town  in  Upper  Canada. 
There  is  a large  grist-mill  near  it ; and  this  neigh- 
bourhood may  be  described  as  advantageously  situ- 
ate and  flourishing. 

Elmsley.  3.  Possesses  but  an  indifferent  soil.  It 
is  situate  in  the  rear  of  the  district,  and  has  the 
Rideau  Lake  in  it,  with  part  of  the  canal. 

D 5 


58 


JOHNSTOWN  DISTRICT. 


Gower  (north).  6.  The  soil  is  described  as  good*, 
and  it  is  crossed  by  the  Rideau  River  and  Canal. 

Gower  (south).  12.  The  same  character  as  the 
last.  Rideau  at  the  upper  end. 

Kitley . 9.  Has  but  an  indifferent  soil ; the  canal 
passes  through  its  north-west  corner. 

Lansdown.  14.  In  front : soil  described  as  in- 
different in  general,  nor  does  it  appear  to  possess  any 
prominent  advantages  beyond  its  frontage  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  with  uninterrupted  navigation. 

Leeds . 13.  The  adjoining  township,  also  in  front ; 
soil  similar.  A lake  of  considerable  size  lies  in  this 
and  the  township  of  Lansdown,  which  is  contem- 
plated to  be  connected  with  the  Rideau  Canal.  A 
stream  from  this  lake  runs  through  Leeds  into  the 
St.  Lawrence,  at  the  village  of  Gannonoqui,  where 
it  has  a fall  of  twenty  feet,  and  is  made  use  of  to 
drive  machinery  of  various  kinds,  as  saw  and  grist 
mills,  turning  lathes,  &c.,  and  the  power  is  very  ex- 
tensive. This  is  a thriving  and  very  improving 
neighbourhood,  and  within  a short  distance  of  King- 
ston. 

Marlborough.  5.  Is  a rear  township,  the  soil  of 
which  is  pronounced  generally  good  ; and  its  situa- 
tion is  good  also.  The  Rideau  Canal  traverses  its 
lower  end,  and  various  branches  of  that  river  water  it. 

Montague . 4.  Is  the  adjoining  township  to  the 


JOHNSTOWN  DISTRICT. 


59 


west : the  soil  is  not  of  such  a character  as  Marl- 
borough, but  is,  nevertheless,  fair  upon  the  whole, 
it  possesses  all  the  advantages  of  the  other  in  respect 
to  situation,  and  perhaps  a little  more  by  its  vicinity 
to  the  flourishing  township  of  Drummond,  in  the 
Bathurst  district,  in  which  is  the  rising  town  of 
Perth,  already  arrived  at  very  considerable  prosperity 
and  importance. 

Oxford . 11.  This  township  is  between  Marl- 
borough and  Edwardsburg.  The  soil  is  good  : the 
Rideau  Canal  traverses  its  upper  end,  and  it  has 
good  roads  through  it  to  Johnstown  and  Prescot,  on 
the  St.  Lawrence. 

Wolford.  10.  Is  also  in  possession  of  a soil  well 
spoken  of,  and  possesses  all  the  advantages  of  the 
last-mentioned  township. 

Yonges.  15.  This  township  is  in  front,  on  the 
St.  Lawrence.  The  soil  is  pronounced  good,  and 
its  situation  must  undoubtedly  be  pronounced  good 
also. 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 

This  district  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Prescot 
and  Russell ; at  present  incorporated,  and  sending 
only  one  member  (o  the  Provincial  Parliament.  The 
population  in  1830  was  3833. 

Its  front  is  on  the  Ottawa  river,  which  is  navigable 


60 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 


for  steam-boats  through  the  whole  distance,  except 
at  the  lower  end  fronting*  Hawkesbury,  east ; where 
are  situate  the  rapids  ; to  avoid  which  the  Grenville 
Canal  has  been  constructed.  The  settlers  are  chiefly 
along  the  front.  A large  portion  of  it  appears  to  be 
in  the  hands  of  absentee  proprietors,  (by  which  is  to 
be  understood  persons  not  in  America,)  which  greatly 
retards  the  settlement  of  any  tract.  The  advan- 
tages of  its  situation,  so  near  (Montreal)  the  mercan- 
tile metropolis,  the  tine  navigation  in  front,  and  also 
on  its  western  border,  point  this  district  out  as  valu- 
able. The  first  tow  nship,  in  alphabetical  order,  is 

Alfred . 5.  Much  of  it  is  swampy,  but  capable  of 
being  made  good  laud  for  tillage,  and  such  as  the 
French  Canadians  are  very  partial  to  ; the  soil  other- 
wise is  rather  indifferent — alternately  clay  and  sand. 
One  road  near  the  centre  across  it,  but  is  not  spoken 
very  highly  of  as  a summer  route.  In  front,  the 
want  of  a road  is  less  felt,  by  reason  of  the  river, 
which  serves  the  purpose  of  a road  both  summer 
and  winter.  Several  creeks  traverse  it.  At  present 
no  mills  are  reported. 

Caledonia.  8.  A rear  township ; the  greater 
part  of  it  low  and  swampy  ; but  there  is  some  good 
land.  Of  course  the  roads  are  not  of  a substantial 
nature,  even  what  there  are.  There  are  no  large 
streams,  nor  any  mills.  Upon  the  whole,  this  town- 
ship is  not  advantageous. 

Cambridge.  9.  In  the  rear:  the  soil  is  generally 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 


61 


light  and  sandy.  The  best  lands  are  at  the  back, 
towards  the  eastern  district ; but  there  are  few,  if 
any,  settlers  upon  it,  and  of  course  no  roads.  The 
river  Nation  crosses  it,  and  also  a large  branch  ; 
both  of  these  will  answer  the  purpose  of  roads  in 
winter  ; and  the  time  will  come  when  the  Nation 
will  be  made  navigable  to  the  Ottawa.  No  mills 
erected,  but  two  in  neighbouring  townships  lie 
handy. 

Clarence.  3.  Fronts  the  Ottawa : soil  generally 
light  and  sandy.  Settlers  principally  in  front.  No 
roads,  which  defect  is  not  much  felt  in  front : no 
mills ; but  a fine  stream,  on  which  many  might  be 
erected,  waters  the  rear. 

Cumberland.  2.  Fronts  the  Ottawa.  The  ge- 
neral character  of  the  soil  is  light  or  sandy;  but  it 
is  said  to  have  much  good  land  in  it;  has  some  ex- 
tensive swamps,  but  they  are  reclaimable.  The 
settlers  are  chiefly  along  the  river,  some  few  in  the 
interior.  There  are  no  roads ; but  the  same  stream 
which  runs  through  Clarence  also  crosses  this,  and 
is  called  Bear  Brook,  where  mills  may  be  erected, 
Two  saw-mills  are  already  in  operation. 

Gloucester.  1.  Next  to  the  preceding,  and  front- 
ing the  Ottawa.  The  soil  towards  the  Ottawa  is 
clayey,  which  is  also  the  character  of  the  back  part. 
Towards  the  Rideau  River,  which  divides  this  dis- 
trict from  the  district  of  Bathurst,  the  soil  is  oravelly. 
The  settlers  are,  as  might  be  expected,  chiefly  along 


62 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 


the  Ottawa  and  the  Rideau.  There  are  some  ex- 
tensive swamps,  which  are  of  the  same  description 
as  those  in  Cumberland.  Bear  Brook  and  several 
creeks  water  it,  on  which  there  is  a saw-mill,  and 
opportunities  for  more.  There  is  also  a land  route 
to  Bathurst  and  Johnston  districts ; but  that  seems 
to  be  of  small  importance  compared  with  the  water 
communication  to  the  Ottawa.  On  the  whole,  this 
township  may  be  described  as  worth  the  attention  of 
the  emigrant,  whether  his  pursuits  are  directed  to 
agriculture  or  trade. 

Hawkesbury  (east).  7.  Fronting  the  Ottawa, 
and  the  nearest  township  in  the  district  to  Montreal. 
Some  accounts  say  the  soil  is  indifferent,  and  others 
that  the  lands  are  generally  low,  level,  and  good. 
It  is  thinly  settled  by  the  river,  which  is  so  rapid, 
that  boats  unload,  and  their  lading  is  conveyed  by 
land  to  the  upper  end  of  the  Rapids,  along  a tole- 
rably good  road ; this,  however,  is  now  about  to  be 
remedied  by  the  Grenville  Canal.  There  is  also  a 
road  runs  through  to  the  Lower  Province,  but  no 
others.  The  river  La  Grasse  runs  through  the  in- 
terior, on  which  there  is  a saw-mill.  The  portion  of 
this  township  called  the  Gore  is  the  part  next  the 
boundary-line  of  Lower  Canada. 

Hawkesbury  (west).  6.  Has  also  its  front  on  the 
Ottawa.  The  soil  described  by  some  as  like  the 
last,  stony  and  gravelly,  and  by  others  as  excellent 
land  ; is  well  settled  ; has  many  cross-roads,  as  well 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 


63 


as  one  leading  to  Cornwall,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  on 
which  the  mail  travels.  Also  mills,  distilleries, 
stores,  and  other  indications  of  a thriving  township, 
The  Canada  Company’s  lands  are  said  to  be  gene- 
rally wet,  but  capable  of  being  drained. 

Osgoode.  11.  In  the  rear  of  Gloucester,  and 
having  the  Rideau  River  and  Canal  along  the  wes- 
tern border.  The  land  is  allowed  to  be  generally  of 
good  quality.  Not  many  settlers  in  it  at  present, 
but  increasing.  No  roads  or  mills  in  it,  but  some 
contemplated : is  well  watered  by  the  Rideau  and 
the  Casteere,  and  several  branches.  Upon  the  whole, 
must  be  considered  a favourable  situation. 

Plant agenet.  4.  Next  to  Alfred.  On  the  front 
has  the  Ottawa,  and  runs  back  to  the  Eastern  Dis- 
trict. The  soil  is  various.  The  front  section  has 
some  good  land  in  it,  but  the  greater  part  is  light 
and  sandy,  and  a little  swampy.  On  the  rear  sec- 
tion, generally  indifferent,  light  and  sandy,  with 
some  extent  of  spruce  swamps.  In  the  front  section 
is  Bear  Brook,  Horn  Creek,  and  Scotch  River. 
The  roads  are  but  indifferent  in  summer  : the  road 
to  Cornwall  passes  through  the  rear  section ; the 
river  Nation  runs  through  it,  and  on  it  there  are 
grist  and  saw  mills.  The  front  to  the  Ottawa  is 
pretty  well  settled,  but  the  rear  has  but  very  few. 

Russell.  10.  A rear  township,  with  an  indifferent 
soil ; light,  sandy,  and  having  large  swamps.  Appa- 
rently not  worth  attention.  The  river  Casterre  and 


64 


OTTAWA  DISTRICT. 


its  branches  water  it.  There  is  a saw-mill  oil  the 
river,  but  few  or  no  settlers.  Those  who  have 
visited  it  appear  to  have  been  attracted  by  the  pine- 
timber,  which  they  have  nearly  stripped  it  of. 


BATHURST  DISTRICT. 

The  other  district  with  its  front  to  the  Ottawa 
River.  It  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Lanark  and 
Carleton,  *each  of  which  sends  a member  to  the  Pro- 
vincial Parliament.  Its  population  in  2 830  was 
15,945;  and  the  assessable  property  estimated  at 
154,352Z. 

Of  the  particular  soil,  &c.  in  the  several  town- 
ships, we  have  not  been  able  to  get  an  account;  but 
those  we  have,  and  can  rely  upon,  will  be  given. 
One  of  the  deputy  surveyors  of  the  province  con- 
sulted in  the  course  of  laying  out  the  Rideau  Canal, 
concludes  his  report  thus  : — ‘ The  country  through- 
out abounds  in  mill  seats,  and  is  excellently  watered. 
The  soil  is  of  the  very  first  quality,  either  for  tillage 
or  pasture.  The  rivers  and  lakes  breed  many  fish, 
and  there  are  ores  in  the  hills ;’  and  the  advancement 
in  population  and  settlement  appears  to  confirm  this 
character  *. 

* On  the  contrary,  an  individual  of  considerable  experience  in 
the  province,  says,  4 The  greater  part  of  this  and  the  district  of 
Johnstown  is  perhaps  the  least  productive  region  in  the  whole 
province.’ — Statistical  Sketches  of  Upper  Canada , p.  66. 


BATHURST  DISTRICT. 


65 


Mills  are  erected  on  the  various  streams  in  most 
of  the  townships,  and  the  roads  are  improving. 

Bathurst  15.  A rear  township,  joining  the  Johns- 
town district : has  a lake  in  it,  from  which  a branch 
of  the  Mississippi  River  runs  to  the  Ottawa.  This 
part  appears  to  be  flat,  and  thickly  interspersed  with 
small  lakes. 

Beckwith . 17.  This  township  is  well  settled.  It 
has  a lake  of  some  size  in  it,  from  which  the  Mis- 
sissippi runs.  On  the  south-eastern  shore  the  soil 
is  shallow,  with  a rock  of  limestone  underneath,  and 
swampy.  The  land  on  the  shores  of  the  lake  are 
not  generally  good.  The  land  on  the  Indian  river 
is  represented  as  productive,  and  well  settled. 

Dalhousie.  12. 

Barling . 4. 

Drummond.  16.  The  soil  and  advantages  of  this 
township  stand  well : in  it  is  the  town  of  Perth, 
already  a place  of  considerable  importance,  although 
only  founded  in  1815.  It  has  a population  of  more 
than  400,  with  churches,  chapels,  and  other  public 
establishments.  It  is  seated  on  the  Tay  River, 
which  communicates  with  the  Rideau,  and  may 
easily  be  made  available  for  navigation,  and  has 
tolerable  good  roads  to  the  St.  Lawrence  and  to  the 
Ottawa.  Its  central  situation  is  so  good,  that  it 
must  advance  as  a place  of  trade. 

Fitzroy.  6.  Fronts  the  Ottawa,  near  which  it  is  low 


66 


BATHURST  DISTRICT. 


and  marshy ; but,  beyond  the  first  mile,  the  land  be- 
comes more  fertile,  though  not  much  settled.  Seve- 
ral good  streams  run  through  it. 

Goulburn.  18.  A rear  township,  and  having  a 
branch  of  the  Rideau  river  running  through  it. 

Horton.  1.  The  last  in  the  district  on  the  Ottawa, 
and  not  described. 

Huntley . 9.  Well  settled,  and  good  land.  The 
river  Carp  runs  across  it  into  the  Ottawa. 

Lanark.  11.  The  lake  and  river  Mississippi 
water  this  township,  which  is  well  settled  and  flou- 
rishing. 

Lovat . 3.  A rear  township. 

M'Nab.  2.  With  its  front  on  the  Ottawa; 
granted  to  a Highland  chief  of  that  name,  who  has 
many  of  his  north  countrymen  around  him,  and  de- 
votes much  attention  to  the  lumber  business. 

March.  8.  Its  front  is  on  the  Ottawa,  and  it 
joins  the  township  of  Nepean. 

Nepean.  19.  This  township  fronts  the  Ottawa, 
and  is  well  settled.  The  Rideau  Canal  leaves  the 
river  Rideau  about  eight  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
runs  through  a portion  of  Nepean  to  the  Ottawa, 
where  the  important  town  named  after  the  com- 
manding engineer.  By  Town,  is  situated.  It  has 
already  attained  a considerable  size  and  population, 
and  must,  from  its  situation,  rise  into  a place  of 
the  first  importance.  A fort  is  to  be  built,  and  a 


BATHURST  DISTRICT. 


67 


garrison  maintained  here.  A bridge  across  the 

o 

Ottawa,  connecting  several  islands  which  lay  above 
the  falls,  communicates  with  the  township  of  Hull  on 
the  north  side,  and  in  the  Lower  Province.  There 
is  a constant  communication  by  steam-boat  between 
By  Town  and  Montreal  in  the  summer. 

Pakenham.  5.  The  river  Mississippi  runs  through 
it ; and,  for  four  or  five  miles  on  each  side,  the  land 
is  described  as  particularly  good  ; it  abounds  with 
innumerable  brooks  and  rivulets. 

Ramsey.  10.  Well  settled  and  productive  : same 
river  traverses  it. 

Sherhrook  {north).  13.  Generally  low  and  flat, 
with  many  small  lakes. 

Sherhrook  {south).  14.  Generally  low  and  flat, 
with  many  small  lakes. 

Torhotton.  7.  With  its  front  upon  the  Ottawa, 
and  adjoining  Fitzroy. 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 

This  district  is  divided  into  four  counties,  viz.,  Fron- 
tenac,  Lennox  and  Haddington,  Hastings,  and 
Prince  Edward  ; each  sending  two  members  to  the 
Provincial  Parliament.  The  population  in  1830  was 
34,190,  and  the  assessable  property  rated  at  505, 511Z. 
This  is  the  most  populous  and  richest  district  in 


68 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 


Upper  Canada,  as  well  as  the  first  settled,  particu- 
larly  in  front  and  along  the  Bay  of  Quinte,  great 
part  of  which  was  taken  up  by  the  United  Empire 
loyalists  upon  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  contest. 
It  may  be  remarked,  that  these  lands  naturally  exhi- 
bit signs  of  exhaustion,  not  producing  in  that  abun- 
dance which  lands  less  worked  do  : still  their  local 
situation  on  the  beautiful  bay,  from  one  to  ten  miles 
broad,  and  navigable  by  steam-boats  for  upwards  of 
ninety  miles,  reckoning  the  windings,  and  being 
cleared,  and  brought  into  a state  approaching  the 
agricultural  aspect  of  England,  it  may  be  well  worth 
the  consideration  of  the  emigrant  of  science  and  some 
capital,  whether  the  advantages  of  situation  do  not 
more  than  compensate  for  the  deficiency  in  the  pro- 
ductiveness of  the  soil,  which,  perhaps,  under  judi- 
cious management,  and  by  the  help  of  materials 
within  reach,  may  be  restored.  The  district  is  more 
or  less  settled  for  a considerable  way  back.  The 
western  portion  of  it  is  the  best  watered.  It  has 
many  good  roads  in  various  directions  in  the  front 
and  settled  parts.  The  townships  between  the  bay 
and  the  lake  are  said  to  be  very  subject  to  the  fever 
and  ague. 

Adolphustown.  37.  Soil  generally  of  good  qua- 
lity, and  the  situation  very  advantageous,  being  nar- 
row, and  having  the  bay  on  each  side. 

Ameliasburg.  32.  Has  a soil  for  the  most  part 
good,  excepting  a few  swamps.  It  has  the  bay  on 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 


69 


its  north,  and  the  ?ake  on  its  south  frontier,  and  a 
canal  is  in  contemplation,  to  effect  a communication, 
which  will  add  to  the  already  excellent  situation  of 
this  tract. 

Anglesea.  4.  Is  quite  a back  township,  not  yet 
surveyed. 

Baric . 5.  Adjoins  the  above,  and  is  not  known. 

Bedford.  20.  In  the  third  range.  The  soil 
rather  indifferent  and  swampy. 

Camden . 25.  Soil  generally  good  : the  Napanee 
river,  a large  and  improvable  stream,  running  into 
the  Bay,  crosses  its  lower  end. 

Clarendon . 6.  One  of  the  last  range  of  town- 
ships ; not  known. 

Elzevir.  10.  A rear  township  ; soil  bad. 

Earnest  Town.  29.  With  a soil  of  good  quality, 
and  advantageously  situate,  with  its  front  to  the 
lake,  and  adjoining  the  township  of  Kingston. 

Fredericsburg.  28,  West  of  the  above,  and  pos- 
sessing the  same  character,  both  in  soil  and  situa- 
tion, to  the  lake. 

Grimsthorp.  3.  A back  township  ; not  de- 
scribed. 

Hallowell.  35.  Possesses  a soil  in  general  good, 
and  is  very  advantageously  situate  on  the  lake,  and 
also  partly  to  the  bay. 


70 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 


Hillier.  33.  Soil  good  generally,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  swamps  ; is  well  situate  on  the  lake. 

HinchinhrooJc.  19.  A rear  township,  with  an  in- 
different soil. 

Huntingdon . 16.  Not  bearing  a very  good  cha- 
racter as  to  soil,  and  the  situation  indifferent. 

Hungerford . 17.  Adjoining  the  last-named  on 
the  east.  The  soil  generally  bears  a bad  character, 
and  the  situation  not  tempting. 

Kalador.  11.  Soil  bad;  situation  not  advan- 
tageous. 

Kenehec.  12.  Soil  bad,  and  situation  also. 

Kingston . 30.  The  soil  of  this  township  is  de- 
scribed as  good  generally.  It  has  some  stony  or 
rocky  portions,  principally  towards  the  lake.  The 
important  town  of  Kingston,  with  a population  of 
3635,  according  to  the  census,  but  probably  nearer 
5000,  is  in  this  township.  It  sends  a member  to 
Parliament.  The  naval  dep6t,  with  the  forts  for  its 
defence,  are  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood,  and  a 
regiment  has  always  its  head-quarters  here.  This 
town,  from  the  advantages  of  situation,  will  always 
maintain  the  first  commercial  rank.  Of  course  good 
land  in  this  township  is  valuable. 

Lake.  1.  A back  township,  not  known. 

Loughborough . 27.  Soil  only  of  the  middling 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 


71 


quality ; and  contains  several  small  lakes  and 
swamps  : is  subject  to  the  fever  and  ague. 

Madox.  9.  A back  township,  but  possessing  a 
soil  generally  good. 

Marmora.  8.  A rear  township ; soil  rather  in- 
different. It  has  the  Marmora  iron  works  situate  in 
it,  to  which  there  are  roads  from  the  lake,  and  a 
branch  of  the  river  Trent  traverses  it. 

Marysburg . 36.  Generally  good  soil,  excepting 
some  swamps.  Its  situation  is  undeniable. 

Olden.  13.  Not  described. 

Oso.  14.  Not  described. 

Pittsburg.  31.  Has  some  very  good  land  in  it, 
though  the  greater  part  has  an  indifferent  character. 
It  fronts  the  St.  Lawrence,  there  called  the  Lake  of 
the  Thousand  Isles  ; and  also  has  the  Rideau  Canal 
crossing  it  obliquely. 

Palmerston.  7.  Unknown. 

Portland.  26.  Soil  but  middling,  and  has 
swampy  and  unhealthy  portions  in  it.  The  Na- 
panee  river  crosses  it. 

Bawdon  15.  Is  generally  good  as  to  soil  to- 
wards the  front ; and  in  the  rear  it  is  bad.  It  is 
situate  in  front  of  Marmora.  The  road  to  the  iron 
wrorks  runs  through  it ; and  it  has  some  branches 
of  the  Trent  crossing  it. 

Richmond.  24.  Has  its  front  upon  the  bay, 


72 


MIDLAND  DISTRICT. 


towards  which  the  soil  is  generally  good,  and  but 
very  indifferent  towards  the  rear.  The  Salmon  river, 
an  improvable  stream,  crosses  it. 

Sheffield.  18.  Soil  rather  indifferent,  and  situa- 
tion the  same. 

Sidney.  21.  Soil  generally  good,  and  it  is  very 
advantageously  situate,  with  its  front  on  the  bay, 
and  the  river  Trent  running  along  its  western  bor- 
der, which  is  to  be  made  navigable  forthwith. 

Sophiasburg . 34.  Soil  generally  good,  excepting 
some  swamps : situation  good,  being  partly  border- 
ing on  the  lake,  and  partly  on  the  bay. 

Thurlow.  22.  Soil  generally  good  ; fronts  the 
bay,  and  has  the  river  Moria  running  through  it. 
The  flourishing  town  of  Belleville  is  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river  at  its  mouth. 

Tudor . 2.  Quite  a rear  township,  and  unknown. 

Tyendinaga , or  Mohawk.  23.  Soil  reported  to 
be  generally  poor : fronts  the  bay,  and  has  the  Sal- 
mon river  running  through  it. 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 

This  is  the  next  district  upwards,  and  fronts  the 
lake : its  population  at  the  census  in  1830  was 
14,851  ; and  the  assessable  property  was  estimated 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 


73 


at  193,990/.  It  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Dur- 
ham and  Northumberland ; each  of  which  sends  two 
members  to  the  Provincial  Parliament.  It  is  well 
watered  by  the  Rice,  Balsam,  Trout,  Sturgeon,  and 
other  lakes,  and  the  Ottanabee  and  Trent  rivers  and 
other  streams,  which  disperse  themselves  about; 
and,  by  connecting  them,  a communication  by 
water  will  shortly  be  opened  from  Lake  Simcoe  to 
the  Bay  of  Quinte,  by  which  the  interior  of  this  dis- 
trict will  be  greatly  benefited.  This  district  already 
possesses  two  harbours  on  the  lake,  Cobourg  and 
Port  Hope,  and  many  bays  and  creeks,  on  which 
more  may  be  placed  when  needful.  The  Dundas 
road  runs  along  its  front,  and  there  are  other  roads 
in  the  direction  of  the  Rice  Lake. 

Alnwick.  20.  Is  a new  township  on  the  Rice 
Lake  : soil  bad,  and  not  settled. 

Asphodel . 19.  Soil  generally  good  ; pretty  well 
settled,  and  has  the  river  Trent  running  through  it. 

Belmont . 13.  Soil  rather  indifferent;  but  it  is 
well  watered,  and  joins  the  township  of  Marmora,  in 
which  the  iron  works  are  situated. 

Burleigh.  5.  Quite  a back  township,  with  a very 
indifferent  soil,  and  not  well  watered  nor  settled. 

Cartwright.  14.  Soil  very  indifferent ; indiffer- 
ently watered,  and  not  many  settlers.  Its  situation 
not  very  remote. 


Cavan . 16.  Has  a good  soil ; is  well  settled  and 
2 E 


74 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 


watered.  Has  many  mill-seats,  and  some  at  work  ; 
also  two  distilleries,  and  many  stores  in  the  town- 
ship. Chiefly  settled  by  Protestant  Irish : not  far 
from  the  Rice  Lake. 

Clark.  24.  Fronting  the  lake.  The  soil  is  ge- 
nerally of  excellent  quality  ; but  it  is  not  well  settled, 
by  reason  of  much  of  the  land  belonging  to  ab- 
sentees. 

Cramah . 28.  Fronting  the  lake ; has  much  bad 
land  in  it.  It  is  well  watered,  and  has  the  village 
of  Newcastle  on  the  lake  shore  in  it. 

Darlington.  23.  Fronting  the  lake.  The  soil  is 
generally  good,  and  the  surface  undulating.  Some 
streams  run  through  it  into  the  lake  ; but  as  much 
of  it  is  the  property  of  absentees,  settlement  has  not 
made  much  progress. 

Douro.  10.  The  soil  is  described  as  good.  There 
are  many  swamps  in  the  township,  which  is  not 
well  settled  : it  is  well  watered. 

Dummer.  11.  Lies  to  the  east  of  the  last- 
named  : soil  generally  bad,  though  some  good  por- 
tions may  be  found  towards  the  front.  It  is  badly 
watered,  and  has  no  settlers  on  it. 

Eldon.  1.  Not  known  yet. 

Emily , 8.  Possesses  a soil  generally  good : 
most  part  of  it  is  level,  and  towards  the  rear  there 
are  swamps  and  some  beaver  meadows.  It  is  well 
watered,  and  has  two  good  mill-seats,  and  some 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 


75 


tolerable  roads.  It  is  well  settled.  The  township 
of  Ennismore,  or  Gore  of  Emily,  is  perhaps  the  best 
part. 

Fenelon.  2.  A remote  township,  and  little  known 
of  it. 

Hamilton.  26.  Has  a great  portion  of  bad  land 
in  it,  being  a mixture  of  sand  and  clay  in  various 
proportions,  as  the  ground  is  more  or  less  elevated, 
the  sand  predominating  on  the  high  lands  ; but  the 
greater  part  is  good.  A large  portion  is  held  by 
absentee  proprietors,  which  has  retarded  the  settle- 
ment, except  towards  the  lake  and  the  township  of 
Hope  to  the  west.  A capital  road  runs  through  it 
to  the  Rice  Lake.  The  town  of  Cobourg  is  situate 
in  this  township,  on  the  lake,  where  a harbour  has 
been  made,  by  running  out  piers  into  the  bay.  In 
it  are  churches,  chapels,  court-house,  post-office, 
inns,  &c.  &c.  ; several  mills  and  manufacturing 
trades.  In  its  neighbourhood  are  many  handsome 
houses  and  establishments.  Cobourg  is,  altogether, 
a thriving  place,  and  has  great  intercourse  with  the 
opposite  or  American  shore  of  the  lake,  both  by 
steamers  and  schooners.  The  society  is  of  quite  a 
superior  caste. 

Haldimand . 27.  Fronts  the  lake:  soil  is  bad  in 
general ; but  it  is  well  watered,  and  settled  in  front. 
No  good  flour-mills. 

Harvey.  4.  Soil  not  good.  Quite  a rear  town- 
ship ; not  settled. 

E 2 


76 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 


Hope.  25.  In  front,  on  the  lake : soil  generally 
good;  and  well  settled,  particularly  towards  its  front. 
The  town  of  Port  Hope  is  on  the  lake,  within  eight 
miles  of  Cobourg.  It  is  built  in  a valley,  through 
which  runs  the  river  Hope,  or  Smith’s  Creek:  on 
this  stream,  which  has  a considerable  fall,  several 
mills  are  built;  and  there  are  churches,  schools, 
taverns,  stores,  and  all  the  indications  of  a thriving 
place ; and  its  vicinity  to  the  town  of  Cobourg 
makes  it  desirable  on  the  score  of  sociability.  Much 
trade  is  also  carried  on  with  the  Americans. 

Manvers.  15.  Soil  very  bad,  and  altogether  dis- 
advantageous. 

Methune . 12.  Nearly  the  same  character  as  the 
last-named,  and  more  remote. 

Mariposa.  6.  Soil  generally  good,  and  is  well 
watered,  but  not  yet  settled. 

Monaghan.  17.  Has  a soil  generally  good.  The 
town  of  Peterborough  is  in  this  township,  on  the 
Otanabee  river:  it  was  commenced  in  1825,  by 
some  of  the  poorest  class  of  Irish  from  Cork ; it 
stands  well  at  the  head  of  navigation,  with  mill- 
power  to  any  extent,  and  they  have  already  saw, 
flour,  and  carding  mills,  distillery  and  tannery,  in 
regular  work;  and  most  probably  have  now  a steam- 
boat on  Rice  Lake.  Tolerable  good  roads  lead  to 
Cobourg  on  the  lake. 

Murray.  29.  With  its  front  on  the  lake,  the  Bay 


NEWCASTLE  DISTRICT. 


77 


of  Quinte  touching  its  eastern  side,  and  the  river 
Trent  in  the  rear  ; thus  being  encompassed  on  three 
sides  by  navigable  water.  The  soil  is  generally  of 
good  quality  : it  has  but  few  mill-seats,  as  the  waters 
are  level  ; consequently,  more  valuable  as  canals. 

Ops.  7.  Soil  good,  loam  upon  clay : has  some 
extensive  swamps  towards  the  north-east.  The 
Scugog  river  traverses  it,  and  affords  excellent  mill- 
seats.  It  is  described  as  one  of  the  finest  town- 
ships in  this  part  of  the  country ; still  it  is  but  very 
thinly  settled,  and  consequently  no  roads. 

Otanabee.  18.  Soil  generally  good,  loam  upon 
clay  ; lays  north  of  the  Rice  Lake.  It  is  but  par- 
tially settled : but  when  the  projected  improvements 
in  the  navigation  of  the  country  between  Lake  Sim- 
coe  and  the  Bay  of  Quinte  are  complete,  no  doubt  it 
will  fill  fast.  There  are  some  swamps  in  it,  and  the 
shores  of  the  Rice  Lake  are  sandy.  It  has  several 
roads  leading  towards  Lake  Ontario. 

Percy.  21.  Has  a good  soil,  and  the  river  Trent 
and  its  branches  running  through  it : the  surface  is 
pretty  level,  and  therefore  has  but  few  mill-seats; 
but  its  situation  is  advantageous  : partly  settled. 

Seymour.  22.  Joining  the  above  to  the  east, 
and  is  of  much  the  same  character,  but  has  fewer 
settlers. 

Smith.  9.  Lies  between  the  mud  or  shallow 
lake,  and  the  Otanabee  river.  The  soil  is  generally 
good  (loam),  but  rocky  on  the  north-east.  Gene- 


78 


HOME  DISTRICT. 


rally  well  settled.  The  waters  abound  with  fish,  the 
salmon-trout  from  30  to  40  lbs.  in  weight. 

Verulam.  3.  Soil  not  very  good ; is  well  wa- 
tered, but  very  remote,  and  not  settled. 


HOME  DISTRICT. 

This  district  lies  at  the  western  end  of  Lake  On- 
tario, along  which  its  front  stretches  for  fifty  miles, 
and  is  broken  into  many  bays ; the  principal  of 
which  are,  Whitby,  or  Windsor  Bay,  in  the  township 
of  Windsor,  and  Big  Bay,  in  the  township  of  Picker- 
ing, besides  the  harbour  of  York.  Its  back  front  is 
on  the  eastern  branch  of  Lake  Huron,  called  the 
Georgian  Bay,  and  it  includes  in  its  boundaries 
Lake  Simcoe,  which  is  28  miles  long,  and  25  broad. 
It  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  York  and  Simcoe  ; 
the  first  sending  two  members,  and  the  latter  one 
member  to  the  Provincial  Parliament.  The  last  re- 
turns in  1830  gave  the  population  at  28,565,  and 
the  assessable  property  at  410,367£. ; whereof  only 
2117,  and  22,578 l.  appertained  to  the  county  of 
Simcoe. 

The  corporation  inspectors  do  not  appear  to  have 
reported  on  the  individual  townships  composing  this 
district.  There  is,  however,  less  difficulty  in  ascer- 
taining the  nature  and  quality  of  the  soil,  owing  to 


HOME  DISTRICT. 


79 


its  comparative  full  settlement,  especially  the  county 
of  York  and  around  Lake  Simcoe. 

The  land  towards  Lake  Ontario  is  not  generally 
good,  being  sandy,  and  producing  much  pine.  This, 
however,  soon  gives  way  to  hard  wood  and  fine  land, 
continuing  with  little  or  no  interruption  to  Lake 
Simcoe,  which  is  much  elevated  above  Lake  On- 
tario. The  rivers  Humber,  Etobicoke,  and  many 
others  which  run  into  Lake  Ontario,  water  the 
southern  portion,  while  the  Nottawasaga  and  others 
running  into  Lakes  Huron  and  Simcoe,  water  the 
northern  half.  All  these  abound  with  fish,  among 
which  is  abundance  of  salmon,  which  are  to  be  caught 
in  all  the  creeks  and  bays  at  this  end  of  the  lake. 

As  this  district  contains  York,  the  seat  of  the 
Provincial  Government,  and  consequently  the  place 
of  residence  of  the  chief  officers,  both  civil  and 
military,  with  all  that  usually  attends  upon  a 
metropolis  and  large  population,  its  lands  are 
valuable,  especially  in  the  county  of  York.  Much 
of  the  produce  of  a farm,  as  meat,  poultry, 
butter,  eggs,  &c.,  find  a ready  sale  at  higher  prices 
than  in  any  other  district.  Much  of  the  land  is  the 
property  of  half-pay  officers  and  others,  some  of 
whom  are  cultivators,  and  others  let  it ; and  per- 
haps many  emigrants  conversant  with  agriculture 
would  find  it  more  to  their  advantage  to  hire  a farm 
here  than  to  clear  one  for  themselves.  There  are 
many  good  roads,  besides  the  Dundas  Street,  which 
continues  round  the  head  of  the  lake ; a main  road 


80 


HOME  DISTRICT. 


leads  from  York  to  Gwilliamburg,  on  Lake  Sim- 
coe,  32  miles. 

Many  of  the  old  settlers  in  this  district  are,  from 
the  increased  value  of  land,  disposed  to  sell  their 
cleared  farms,  and,  with  the  money,  purchase  a 
larger  tract  of  uncleared  land,  in  order  to  provide 
farms  for  an  increased  family.  The  agriculturist  of 
moderate  capital  is  recommended,  by  most  writers 
on  Canadian  affairs,  to  prefer  a partially  cleared 
farm,  at  a moderate  price,  to  wild  land  at  a low 
price,  especially  if  he  comes  from  a highly-cultivated 
county  of  England;  and  the  reasons  on  which  such 
advice  is  founded  will  immediately  occur  on  reflec- 
tion. The  river  Credit,  which  runs  through  the 
townships  of  Caledon,  Chinguacoucy,  and  Trafal- 
gar, in  the  Gore  district,  is  immediately  to  be  made 
navigable  ; and  the  line  of  navigation  from  Lake 
Simcoe  to  the  Bay  of  Quinte,  when  complete,  must 
greatly  increase  the  value  of  this  part  of  the  country. 


Adjala.  31. 

Flos.  8. 

Albion.  39, 

Georgiana.  22. 

Alta.  2. 

Gwilliamburg  (East).  34. 

Amarant.  29. 

Gwilliamburg  (West).  33. 

Artemesia.  15. 

Gwilliamburg  (North).  21 

Brock.  38. 

Innisfull.  20. 

Essa.  19. 

Java.  3. 

Etobikoke.  A. 

King.  40. 

Euphrasia.  14. 

Luther.  28. 

HOME  DISTRICT. 


SI 


Mara.  24. 

^ Scarborough.  46. 

Markham.  41. 

Scotts.  37. 

Matchadash.  7. 

Sunnidale.  4. 

Medonto.  9. 

Tay.  6. 

Melancthon.  26. 

Tecumseth.  32. 

Mona.  30. 

Thora.  23. 

Merlin.  17. 

Tiney.  5. 

Mulmur.  27. 

Toronto  (Gore  of),  b. 

Newmarket.  35. 

Tossorondio.  18. 

Orillia.  10. 

Uxbridge.  42. 

Oro.  12. 

Vaughan.  44. 

Osprey.  16. 

Vespra.  11. 

Pickering.  47. 

Whitby.  48. 

Proton.  25. 

Whitchurch.  36. 

Rama.  13. 

Zero.  1. 

Reach.  43. 

York.  45.  In  this  township  is  seated  the  town 

of  York,  the  metropolis  of  Upper  Canada.  It  is  laid 

out  like  most  of  the 

towns  in  America,  in  wide 

streets,  crossing  at  right  angles,  and  the  early  part 

is  constructed  of  wood 

; but  bricks  are  now  taking  a 

decided  lead,  and  in  a 

few  years  the  former  will  bear 

no  sensible  proportion 

to  the  latter.  The  harbour 

is  formed  by  a point 

of  land  running  out  into  the 

lake,  and  enclosing  an 

almost  circular  basin  of  more 

than  a mile  and  a half  diameter,  and  from  two  and 

E 5 


82 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


a half  to  four  fathoms  deep.  The  entrance  channel 
has  two  and  a half  fathoms ; and  there  is  a light- 
house  on  the  point.  Most  of  the  public  edifices  are 
plain  and  handsome,  but  particularly  the  Parliament 
House  and  Offices  recently  completed ; it  faces  the 
lake,  and  is  truly  a noble  pile  of  buildings  of  brick, 
enriched  with  stone.  In  this  town  is  to  be  found 
good  society,  and  many  of  the  luxuries  and  ele- 
gancies of  civilized  Europe,  and  but  few,  if  any,  of 
the  essentials  are  wanting  to  the  enjoyment  of  life. 
The  population  is  stated,  in  the  return  of  1830,  to  be 
2860  ; but  it  far  exceeds  that  now,  being  probably 
nearer  4000.  It  returns  one  member  to  the  House 
of  Representatives. 


GORE  DJSTRICT. 

This,  and  the  three  districts  of  Niagara,  London, 
and  the  Western,  are  classed  together  in  the  follow- 
ing description  by  the  surveyor-general : ‘ The 
variety  of  soils,  "and  the  diversity  of  their  combina- 
tions, are  by  no  means  so  great  as  might  be  ex- 
pected in  so  extended  a region.  The  whole  tract  is 
alluvial  in  its  formation,  and  chiefly  consists  of  a 
stratum  of  black,  and  sometimes  yellow  loam; 
above  which  is  deposited,  when  in  a state  of  nature, 
a deep  and  rich  vegetable  mould  ; the  substratum 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


83 


beneath  the  bed  of  loam  being  generally  a grey  or 
blue  clay,  which  in  some  parts  appears  at  the  sur- 
face, and,  intermixed  with  sand,  constitutes  the 
super-soil.  This  species,  and  a sandy  loam,  highly 
fertile  in  its  properties,  appear  to  predominate  in  the 
districts  of  Gore  and  Niagara.  The  almost  total 
absence  of  stones  and  gravel  within  the  greatest 
arable  depth,  is  a peculiar  feature  of  the  generality 
of  land  in  the  Upper  Province,  which  has  been  felt 
as  a serious  inconvenience  by  the  inhabitants,  in  the 
progress  of  their  rural  improvements,  whatever  may 
be  its  probable  advantage  as  facilitating  some  of  the 
operations  of  husbandry.  There  are,  however,  nu- 
merous and  extensive  quarries  of  limestone  to  be 
found  in  most  of  the  townships  of  these  districts, 
that  supply  the  farmers  with  excellent  materials  for 
building : freestone  is  also  found,  but  in  small  quan- 
tities, and  generally  along  the  shores  of  the  lakes.’ 
The  whole  tract  presents,  in  general,  to  the  eye 
vast  forests  of  a great  variety  of  lofty  trees,  upon 
level,  and  sometimes  swampy  land.  ‘ In  the  heart 
of  these  dense  woods,  and  on  the  borders  of  the 
rivers,  extensive  plains  suddenly  present  themselves, 
that  lay  open  to  the  view  a beautiful  area  of  natural 
meadow,  often  expanding  to  several  thousand  acres 
in  extent,  and  delightfully  relieved  by  occasional 
clumps  of  lofty  pine,  white  oak,  and  poplar.’  The 
Canada  Company’s  tract  of  Guelph  lies  in  the  centre 
of  this  district,  and  they  have  also  a tract  on  each 
side  of  the  township  of  Wilmot,  N.  and  S.  8.  The 


84 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


whole  is  well  watered  by  the  rivers  Ouse  and  Credit, 
and  numerous  small  streams  in  all  directions.  Round 
the  head  of  the  lake,  which  is  called  Burlington 
Bay,  there  are  a series  of  hills ; and  M‘Taggart  de- 
scribes those  of  Ancaster  to  be  the  finest  of  sheep- 
walks,  and  even  gives  it  as  his  opinion,  that  as  fine 
wool  might  be  produced  here  as  in  Australia. 

Mr.  Richards,  who  was  sent  out  by  the  Colonial 
Office  to  inspect  the  provinces  of  Canada,  concurs 
in  his  report  with  the  opinion  of  the  surveyor-gene- 
ral, upon  this  section  of  the  Upper  Province ; and 
M‘Taggart  concludes  his  description  of  this  part 
thus : ‘ Burlington  Bay  and  the  adjoining  country  is 
the  loveliest  part  of  civilized  Canada/  The  district 
is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Halton  and  Went- 
worth, each  sending  two  members  ; the  popu- 
lation is  20,945 ; and  the  assessable  property 
3 1 837  3 8 L 

Ancaster.  20.-  Soil  sandy  on  the  hills,  and  clay 
in  the  lower  grounds  : has  many  excellent  roads 
and  mills,  &c.  The  village  of  Ancaster  is  situate 
near  the  centre  of  the  township. 

Barton,  b.  Has  its  front  upon  Burlington  Bay. 
Soil  clay  and  sand.  Hamilton,  the  county-town  for 
this  district,  is  situate  near  the  centre  of  the  town- 
ship. It  has  a handsome  stone  court-house, 
churches,  schools,  stores,  mills,  &c.  &c.  : good 
roads  pass  through  it. 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


85 


Beverley.  15.  Soil,  clay  and  sand  ; but  is  not  at 
present  provided  with  roads  or  mills. 

Binbrook . c.  Is  a back  township.  The  soil  is 
chiefly  clay,  but  does  not  possess  either  roads  or 
mills. 

Caledon.  7.  Surface  hilly  ; soil  generally  good  ; 
thinly  settled  : river  Credit  rises  in  it. 

Chinguacoucy . 13.  In  front  of  Caledon ; more 
level:  well  watered,  and  generally  good  soil.  River 
Credit  runs  through  it. 

Dumfries.  14.  This  township  is  private  property, 
and,  therefore,  not  noticed  in  the  return  of  the  in- 
spectors, but  it  is  reported  favourably  of.  The  river 
Ouse  runs  through  it,  and  the  Bundas  Road  crosses 
it.  The  town  of  Galt  is  well  situated  on  the  river 
towards  the  north  end,  and  much  of  it  is  settled. 

Eramora.  5.  Soil,  black  sand : lies  in  the  rear, 
and  is  not  yet  provided  with  roads  or  mills. 

Erin.  6.  Similar  to  Eramora. 

Esquesing.  12.  Soil,  principally  sand,  but  clay  in 
some  parts;  is  a rear  township,  and  in  want  of 
roads,  mills,  &c. 

Flamborough.  16.  Soil,  clay  and  sand.  The 
eastern  part  fronts  Burlington  Bay,  and  on  the 
western  side  is  Bundas  Street  and  Coot’s  Paradise, 
which,  however,  is  not  of  the  nature  its  name  would 
seem  to  imply,  but  a swamp  of  about  300  or  400 
acres,  which,  when  the  wind  is  easterly,  is  flooded 


86 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


by  the  lake.  It  is  the  resort  of  multitudes  of  wild 
fowl;  and  hence  its  name,  from  Coot,  a famous 
sportsman.  M‘Taggart  thinks  it  might  make  a 
good  rice-farm,  as  the  wild  rice  in  it  is  very  luxu- 
rient.  There  are  many  good  roads,  mills,  &c.  In 
this  township  is  the  town  of  Dundas,  situate  on  the 
edge  of  Burlington  Bay,  and  to  which,  M‘Taggart 
says,  ships  drawing  20  feet  water  may  be  brought, 
by  improving  the  navigation. 

Garafraxa.  2.  Soil,  a black  sand  ; it  is  the 
most  remote  township  in  the  district,  and  wants 
roads  and  mills. 

Glauford.  a.  Soil,  principally  clay ; sand  in 
places;  is  a rear  township,  and  wants  roads  and 
mills. 

Guelph.  4.  The  soil  of  this  tract  is  described  by 
the  Canada  Company,  to  whom  it  belongs,  as  excel- 
lent, and  the  whole  is  fast  settling.  The  town  of 
Guelph  is  seated  on  the  Speed,  a branch  of  the 
Ouse,  eighteen  miles  north  from  Galt.  It  contains 
700  or  800  inhabitants,  with  churches,  schools, 
stores,  saw  and  grist  mills,  &c.  &c.  Roads  run  from 
this  tract  to  Dundas,  on  the  Lake  ; also  to  the  Com- 
pany’s settlements  in  Wilmot  and  in  other  directions. 

Nassagiweya . 11.  Soil,  black  sand;  lays  in  the 
rear,  and  has  no  roads,  nor  mills. 

Nelson . 17.  Has  its  front  on  the  lake,  with  a 
soil  composed  of  clay  and  sand.  Has  in  it  several 


GORE  DISTRICT. 


87 


mills,  and  the  Dandas  Street  runs  through  it.  The 
village  of  Brantford  lies  on  the  side  of  the  lake. 

Nichol.  1.  Is  a remote  township,  to  the  north  of 
Guelph.  Its  character  not  known. 

Puslinch.  10.  A new  projected  township,  and 
not  reported. 

Saltfleet.  d . Soil,  clay  and  sand.  Has  its  front 
on  the  lake,  and  possesses  both  highways  and  mills. 

Toronto.  19.  Fronting  the  lake,  and  joining  the 
Home  District.  Soil  similar  to  Nelson  and  Tra- 
falgar. Dundas  Street  runs  through  it ; also  some 
branches  of  the  river  Credit  and  other  streams. 

Trafalgar.  18.  Fronts  the  lake  : the  soil  is  clay 
and  loam.  It  is  watered  by  the  Credit  and  other 
streams  applicable  to  mill  purposes  and  navigation ; 
and  the  Dundas  Street  runs  through  it. 

Waterloo.  9.  An  old  and  populous  settlement 
between  Guelph  and  Wilmot ; well  watered  by  the 
Ouse  and  its  branches  ; and  the  communication  be- 
tween the  Canada  Company’s  lands  must  pass 
through  it. 

Wilmot , 8.  About  half  of  this  township  belongs 
to  the  Canada  Company,  who  represent  the  land  as 
good  ; it  has  a stream  running  through  it  suitable 
for  milling  purposes. 

Woolwich.  3.  Lies  on  the  north  of  Waterloo, 
and  is  not  included  in  the  reports  of  the  inspectors. 


88 


NIAGARA  DISTRICT. 

The  position  of  this  district  is  perhaps  as  good  as 
can  well  be  desired : it  is  a peninsular  tract,  about 
27  miles  wide,  and  50  long,  having  Lake  Ontario  on 
the  north  side,  Lake  Erie  on  the  south,  and  the 
Niagara  river  on  the  east,  with  the  rivers  Ouse  (or 
Grand  River)  and  the  river  Welland,  and  the  canal 
traversing  the  interior. 

This  district  was  early  settled  by  those  who  adhered 
to  the  British  cause  and  name  after  the  revolutionary 
war,  and  is  by  far  the  most  thickly  inhabited,  espe- 
cially towards  Lake  Ontario,  of  any  portion  of  Upper 
Canada ; consequently,  the  roads  are  numerous 
and  good  ; and,  altogether,  it  presents  a face  not 
much  removed  from  the  appearance  pfVemote  Eng- 
lish counties.  It  produces  fruit  in  the  greatest 
abundance  and  perfection,  particularly  peaches  and 
apples. 

The  importance  of  this  district  is  also  great  in  a 
commercial  point  of  view.  The  surplus  produce  of 
50,000,000  acres  of  productive  land  is  destined  to 
find  a market  through  the  Welland  Canal  to  Mon- 
treal, or  through  the  Erie  Canal  to  New  York  ; and 
it  is  not  too  much  to  anticipate,  that  by  far  the 
greater  proportion  even  of  the  American  produce 
will  take  its  route  from  Lake  Erie,  down  Lake  On- 
tario, and  through  the  Rideau  Canal  to  Montreal, 
which  can  be  done  in  six  or  seven  days  without 


NIAGARA.  DISTRICT. 


89 


transhipment ; when,  by  the  Erie  Canal,  it  will  take 
thirteen  days  to  reach  New  York,  and  a transhipment 
at  each  end  of  the  canal.  But  there  is  still  another 
feature  of  importance  to  commerce,  which  is,  the  in- 
definite extent  of  water-power  along  the  line  of  the 
canal,  calculated  to  make  this  at  some  future  period 
the  Lancashire  of  Canada. 

It  is  divided  into  the  counties  of  Lincoln  and 
Haldimand;  the  former  sending  four  members,  and 
the  latter  one  member  to  Parliament.  The  popula- 
tion in  1830  wras  20,916,  and  the  assessable  property 
stated  at  354,310/. 

Bertie.  17.  Soil,  clay,  black  loam,  and  limestone. 
It  has  Lake  Erie  on  one  of  its  sides,  and  the  river 
Niagara  on  another ; is  well  settled,  and  has  good 
roads  throughout,  but  has  no  mill-seats.  The  vil- 
lage and  fort  of  Erie  is  at  the  entrance  of  the  river 
Niagara  from  Lake  Erie ; having  the  American 
towns  of  Black  Rock  and  Buffalo  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river : the  latter  has  a large  population, 
and  is  a great  place  of  trade. 

Caisior.  6.  Soil,  principally  hard  clay.  The 
Chippewa  Creek,  or  Welland,  runs  through  it;  but 
it  is  badly  watered,  is  flat  and  swampy,  thinly  settled, 
and  far  back. 

Canboro.  11.  Between  the  Ouse  river  and  Cais- 
tor. 

Clinton . 2.  Soil,  clay,  yellow  and  black  loam  ; 
fronts  Lake  Ontario ; is  not  well  watered,  but  has 


90 


NIAGARA.  DISTRICT. 


some  saw-mills  and  a grist-mill.  The  mail-road 

passes  through  it. 

Crowland.  12.  Soil,  generally  hard  clay.  It  is 
seated  on  the  Chippewa,  and  a creek  runs  through 
it,  on  which  is  a grist-mill.  It  is  very  badly  off  for 
good  water,  except  near  the  rivers,  and  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  township. 

Gainsborough . 7.  Soil,  principally  clay  ; wet  and 
swampy,  with  some  marsh  : fronts  the  Chippewa 
Creek,  and  another  runs  through  it.  Has  two  grist 
and  five  saw  mills,  but  is  badly  watered,  except  by 
the  creeks. 

Grantham.  4.  Soil,  clay,  black  and  yellow  loam. 
Its  front  is  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  Welland 
Canal  runs  through  it ; at  the  mouth  of  which  is 
Port  Dalhousie,  capable  of  being  made  an  excellent 
harbour,  and  already  a place  of  great  trade.  The 
flourishing  village  of  St.  Catherine  is  in  this  town- 
ship on  the  Twelve  Mile  Creek.  Here  the  water 
power  of  the  canal  is  made  use  of  to  drive  numerous 
grist,  saw,  carding,  fulling,  and  other  mills  and 
machinery  : among  them  is  a furnace  and  forge. 
There  are  also  salt  works.  The  township,  except  by 
the  Twelve  Mile  Creek,  is  badly  watered  in  dry 
seasons. 

Grimsby.  1.  Soil,  clay  and  yellow  loam:  the 
front  is  on  Lake  Ontario ; and  it  has  the  Forty  and 
the  Twenty  Mile  creeks  running  through  it,  on  which 
are  several  mills,  and  two  small  villages.  It  is  well 


NIAGARA  DISTRICT. 


91 


settled  towards  the  lake.  The  back  part  is  wet  and 
swampy. 

Humber  stone.  16.  Soil,  clay  and  black  mould  : 
it  fronts  Lake  Erie.  The  land  is  generally  low  and 
flat,  with  Cranbury  Marsh  over  a great  part.  The 
dry  parts  are  well  settled  ; but  the  front  is  thinly 
settled,  and  there  are  no  mill-streams. 

Louth . 3.  Soil,  clay  and  yellow  loam.  Its  front 
is  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  Twenty  Mile  Creek  runs 
through  it,  on  which  are  many  mills  and  mill-seats, 
but  labours  under  a deficiency  of  water  (except  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  creek)  in  dry  seasons. 

Moulton.  14.  This  township  is  on  Lake  Erie, 
and  has  the  canal  running  through  it : the  greatest 
part  of  it  is  a marsh  wholly  useless  at  present.  At 
the  mouth  of  the  canal  is  the  village  of  Sherbrooke, 
destined,  no  doubt,  to  rise  into  importance  by  means 
of  the  canal. 

Niagara.  5.  Soil,  sand,  clay,  and  yellow  and 
black  loam.  One  side  rests  on  the  Niagara  river, 
which  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  all  along  its 
frontier ; the  other  side  is  on  Lake  Ontario.  The 
town  of  Niagara  is  seated  at  the  point  of  the  angle 
made  by  the  lake  and  river.  It  contains  nearly 
1700  inhabitants,  and  sends  a member  to  Parlia- 
ment. The  trade  is  considerable,  both  with  the 
back  country,  and  also  with  the  state  of  New  York. 
Fort  George  is  near  the  town,  where  there  is  always 
a strong  detachment  of  British  troops.  The  town 


92 


NIAGARA  DISTRICT. 


of  Queenston  is  at  the  southern  extremity,  by  the 
river,  but  is  not  so  large  as  Niagara.  It  has  about 
500  inhabitants.  There  is  in  this  township  a steam 
mill,  four  grist  and  two  saw  mills,  going  by  water- 
power, and  one  windmill ; (the  heights  afford  fine 
opportunity  for  plenty  of  these  if  desirable  ;)  but  the 
water-power  is  not  extensive. 

Pelham . 8.  Soil,  sand,  yellow  loam  and  clay ; 
its  front  is  on  the  Chippewa  river,  which  is  a con- 
tinuation of  the  canal*  It  is  well  watered  with 
springs,  and  has  one  desirable  mill-stream,  on  which 
are  two  grist-mills,  three  saw-mills,  and  a fulling- 
mill.  Part  of  it  is  much  broken  with  short  hills,  and 
some  of  it  is  light  and  sandy. 

Stamford . 10.  Soil  clay,  sand,  and  yellow  loam  : 
has  the  river  Niagara  in  front,  not  navigable  ; for, 
in  its  course  along  this  township  are  the  celebrated 
Falls,  and  on  the  west  side  it  has  the  Chippewa 
Creek,  navigable  into  the  canal.  The  village  of 
Chippewa  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  and  contains 
200  inhabitants.  Round  the  Falls,  and  at  Lundy’s- 
lane,  it  is  thickly  settled ; and,  during  fine  weather, 
thousands  of  visitors  come  to  view  the  Falls.  The 
rapids  above  the  Falls  afford  valuable  sites  for  mills, 
though  at  present  none  are  erected.  From  Chip- 
pewa the  Niagara  river  is  navigable  to  Lake  Erie* 

Thorold.  9.  Soil,  strong  clay ; lies  in  the  rear  of 
Stamford,  but  has  one  front  to  the  Chippewa  river, 
and  the  canal  running  through  it : is  well  settled, 
and  is,  altogether,  an  eligible  township. 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 


93 


Wainfieet.  15.  Soil,  clay  and  yellow  loam ; 
similar  in  character  to  Moulton,  to  which  it  joins. 

IFilloughby.  13.  Soil,  in  general  hard  clay  ; low, 
flat,  and  cold  ; badly  watered,  and  the  quality  of 
the  water  bad.  Does  not  appear  to  possess  any  ad- 
vantages beyond  its  situation  on  the  Niagara  river 
and  Chippewa  creek. 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 

This  district  lies  next  to  the  westward;  part  of  it  fronts 
Lake  Erie,  and  the  Huron  tract,  belonging  to  the 
Canada  Company,  which  is  also  part  of  it,  fronts  Lake 
Huron  for  about  sixty  miles.  It  is  nearly  four  times 
the  size  of  the  Niagara  district,  not  including  the 
Huron  tract  of  1,100,000  acres,  nor  about  500,000 
acres  not  yet  surveyed,  adjoining  the  latter  tract  on 
the  north.  It  is  watered  by  the  river  Thames, 
which  runs  nearly  through  its  whole  length,  some 
branches  of  the  Ouse,  or  Grand  River,  and  by  num- 
berless creeks  and  streams,  which  run  into  Lakes 
Erie  or  St.  Clair.  It  has  an  excellent  road  along 
the  lake,  called  the  Talbot  Road,  the  Dundas  Street, 
which  runs  nearly  through  the  middle,  besides  many 
others  connecting  those  two,  and  also  running  in 
other  directions.  The  eastern  portion  of  this  dis» 
trict,  called  the  Long  Point  country,  is  rather  poor 


94 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 


and  sandy,  but  is  said,  nevertheless,  to  yield  sixteen 
to  twenty  bushels  of  wheat  per  acre  on  the  average, 
but  that,  after  two  or  three  crops,  it  is  necessary  to 
lay  it  down  in  grass.  The  land  and  crops  in  the 
western  part  are  described  to  be  generally  as  fine  as 
possible,  and  in  a most  flourishing  condition,  consi- 
dering the  age  of  the  settlement,  which  was  not 
commenced  vigorously  till  1817,  by  Colonel  Talbot. 
The  chief  towns  in  the  district  are  Oxford  and  Lon- 
don, both  seated  on  the  Thames  (which  to  the  latter 
is  navigable  for  boats  from  its  mouth)  and  the  Dun- 
das  Road.  Along  the  shores  of  the  lake  there  are 
several  villages  ; the  chief  is  Port  Talbot.  It  is 
divided  into  the  counties  of  Middlesex,  Oxford,  and 
Norfolk  ; each  sending  two  members  to  Parliament. 
The  population  in  1830  was  22,803,  and  the  asses- 
sable property  stated  at  317,033 1. 

Aldhorough . 19.  The  most  western  township, 
with  its  front  on  Lake  Erie,  and  its  back  on  the 
Thames,  which  is  navigable  to  its  mouth.  Soil, 
loam  and  clay. 

Bay  ham.  24.  Soil,  loam,  and  some  clay  in  part 
of  it ; its  front  resting  on  the  lake,  and  well  watered 
by  the  Otter  creek. 

Blandford.  9.  Soil,  loam  and  clay  ; lies  inland  ; 
is  partly  watered  by  the  Thames,  and  has  the  town 
of  Oxford,  and  the  Dundas  Road  near  its  southern 
boundary : is  well  timbered. 

Blenheim.  10.  Soil,  loamy:  joins  the  last* 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 


95 


named,  to  the  east,  and  is  watered  by  some  branches 
of  the  Ouse.  Dundas  Road  crosses  its  front,  and  it 
is  generally  well  timbered  with  oak  and  pine. 

Burford.  15.  The  east  part  has  a soil  of  sandy 
loam ; the  west  part  a rich  loam.  It  is  well  wa- 
tered, and  the  west  part  is  well  timbered.  Lies  in- 
land. 

Caradoc.  3.  Soil,  loamy:  the  Thames  on  the 
east  side,  and  otherwise  well  watered ; well  tim- 
bered with  oak. 

Charlotteville.  26.  Soil,  in  front,  towards  the 
lake,  generally  a sandy  loam ; in  the  rear,  light  and 
sandy.  Fronts  the  lake  ; is  well  watered  with  creeks 
and  springs,  and  has  abundance  of  excellent  bog 
iron  ore,  which  is  worked  near  the  lake,  where  there 
is  a village. 

Dereham.  13.  Soil,  loam  and  clay.  The  Otter 
Creek  runs  through  it,  and  affords  some  mill  seats ; 
is  well  timbered  ; lies  inland. 

Delaware.  4.  Soil,  loam  and  clay,  with  rich 
flats  by  the  Thames,  which  runs  through  its  western 
part : is  well  timbered  with  oak  in  parts. 

Dorchester.  12.  Soil,  in  the  northern  part,  loam; 
well  watered,  and  well  timbered  with  pine.  To  the 
south  it  is  sandy  and  swampy  ; inland. 

Dunwich.  20.  Soil,  loam  and  clay ; fronts  the 
lake  ; is  well  watered  and  timbered. 


96 


LONDON  DISTRICT.  - 


Ehfrid.  2.  Soil,  loamy ; is  well  watered,  and 
has  the  Thames  on  the  south-east:  well  timbered 
with  oak  and  maple. 

Hovghton.  30.  Soil,  sandy  loam : fronts  on  the 
lake;  is  well  watered  and  timbered. 

Lobo.  5.  Loam  and  clay.  The  Thames  is  on 
the  south-east  border,  and  otherwise  well  watered, 
and  is  well  timbered  in  front,  towards  the  Thames, 
with  oak  and  maple. 

London.  6.  Soil,  a rich  loam.  The  Thames  runs 
through  it,  and  on  its  banks  is  the  town  of  London, 
very  advantageously  situate,  where  a branch  which 
traverses  the  township  enters  it.  It  is  well  watered 
throughout,  and  well  timbered. 

Malahide . 23.  Soil,  loam  and  clay : its  front  is 
on  the  lake ; is  well  watered,  and  well  timbered. 

Middleton . 25.  Soil,  sandy,  with  swamps,  but 
affords  good  pine  timber,  and  has  good  iron  ore. 
Big  Creek  runs  through  it : inland. 

Mosa.  1.  Soil,  loam  and  clay.  The  Thames 
runs  on  the  south-east  side  ; and  some  streams  from 
the  Big  Bear  Creek  enter  its  north-west  portion. 
Well  timbered  with  oak  and  maple. 

Nissouri.  7.  Soil,  a rich  loam  ; well  watered, 
and  well  timbered  : inland. 

Norwich.  14.  Soil,  a rich  loam.  The  Big  Creek 
runs  through,  and  presents  some  sites  for  mills : is 
well  timbered ; inland. 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 


97 


Oakland . 16.  A small  inland  township.  Soil, 
sandy  loam ; not  well  watered  or  well  timbered : 
has  good  roads  through  it. 

Oxford . 32.  This  is  a large  township,  and  is 
divided  into  east,  west,  and  north.  The  soil  of  the 
whole  is  loam  and  clay,  well  timbered  throughout,  but 
the  west  section  is  the  best  watered.  The  Thames 
runs  through  it : on  its  banks  is  the  town  of  Oxford, 
by  which  the  Dundas  Street  passes. 

Rainham . 29.  Soil,  generally  clay ; rich  and 
fertile  ; fronts  on  the  lake.  Stony  Creek  and  other 
small  streams  run  through  it:  well  timbered. 

Southwold . 21.  Soil  loamy  : fronts  the  lake,  and 
has  Kettle  Creek  passing  through  a part  of  it : well 
timbered. 

Townsend.  18.  Soil  a sandy  loam:  well  watered 
and  well  timbered  : oak  predominates  in  the  west 
part,  and  good  pine  in  the  east ; and  there  are 
some  mill-sites  in  it:  inland.  The  Nantikoke  Creek 
waters  a part. 

Walpole . 28.  Soil  rich  and  fertile  in  front,  and 
the  rear  generally  clay ; fronts  the  lake.  The  St. 
Gus  and  Nantikoke  creeks  run  through  it,  and 
afford  some  mill-sites.  Well  timbered,  and  some 
pine  among  it. 

Walsingham.  31.  A rich  loam  in  the  front ; and 
in  the  rear  hungry  sand.  Fronts  the  lake,  and  has 
F 


98 


LONDON  DISTRICT. 


Big  Creek  running  through  it,  on  which  are  some 
mill-sites.  It  is  well  timbered. 

Westminster.  11.  Inland:  soil,  rich  and  loamy  ; 
well  timbered  with  maple,  buck,  oak,  &c.  The 
Thames  bounds  a part  of  it. 

Windham . 17.  Generally  sandy,  though  loamy 
in  parts,  and  has  several  swamps.  The  timber 
principally  pine,  but  not  useful  for  building  pur- 
poses : the  best  timber  is  in  the  west  part : inland. 

Woodhouse . 27.  Soil,  sandy  loam  in  the  western 
part,  and  rich  loam  in  the  east,  inclining  to  clay  : 
fronts  the  lake ; is  well  watered  and  timbered,  has 
several  mill-sites,  and  good  roads  in  front  and  rear. 

Yarmouth . 22.  A sandy  loam,  rich  and  fertile  ; 
fronts  the  lake  ; is  well  watered  and  well  timbered, 
among  which  is  good  oak. 

Zora.  8.  Soil  loamy,  well  watered,  and  well 
timbered  with  maple,  beech,  and  oak : inland. 


HURON  TRACT. 

This  large  tract  of  land,  containing  1 100,000  acres, 
purchased  by  the  Canada  Land  Company,  is  within 
the  bounds  of  the  London  district.  The  general 
character  of  the  soil  given  by  the  explorers  is  that  of 


HURON  TRACT. 


99 


being  rich  and  fertile  throughout.  The  River  Mait- 
land is  the  principal  stream  which  enters  Lake 
Huron  towards  the  north  angle;  but  there  are  many 
smaller  streams  which  flow  into  the  lake  through  it. 
Its  frontage  to  the  Huron  is  considerable,  from  whence 
there  is  uninterrupted  navigation  to  Lake  Erie. 
Settlement  is  principally  going  on  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Goderich,  which  is  built  on  the  Maitland  at 
its  mouth,  and  has  advanced  very  rapidly  in  the  last 
three  years.  The  townships  of  Ellice  and  Logan 
lie  partly  in  one  of  the  largest  swamps  in  Upper 
Canada.  The  Company  are  forming  roads  through 
it,  to  join  the  roads  leading  to  Port  Talbot,  on  Lake 
Erie,  and  also  towards  Guelph  and  York. 


Biddulph.  b. 

Hay.  d. 

Blanchard,  o. 

Hullett.  h , 

Bosanquet.  . (In  the 

Hibbert.  n . 

Western  District). 

Logan,  p. 

Colborne.  a. 

M4Gillivray.  f 

Downie.  s. 

M‘Killop.  m. 

Easthope  (north),  t. 

Stanley,  c . 

Easthope  (south),  u. 

Stephen,  e. 

Ellice,  r. 

Tucker  Smith,  i. 

Fullarton.  q. 

Usborne.  k. 

Goderich,  b. 

Williams,  g. 

F 2 


100 


WESTERN  DISTRICT, 

This  district  is  a peninsular  tract,  between  Lakes 
Huron  and  Erie,  and  the  small  Lake  St.  Clair. 
There  are  but  three  townships — Dawn,  Zone,  and 
Camden,  that  have  not  a frontage  to  the  lakes,  and 
schooner  navigation.  The  two  last-named  are 
watered  by  the  Thames,  and  consequently  have  boat 
navigation.  The  western  extremity  was  early  settled 
under  the  French,  and  is  by  far  the  most  populous. 
The  chief  towns  are  Amherstburg,  Sandwich  and 
Chatham.  The  first  is  in  the  township  of  Maldon, 
and  has  a population  of  1200,  or  more,  and  is  a 
town  of  some  wealth  and  refinement.  It  is  the 
chief  military  post  on  Lake  Erie,  and  has  a safe  and 
commodious  harbour,  with  3t>  fathoms  of  water,  and 
is  most  beautifully  situate.  The  town  of  Sandwich 
is  eighteen  miles  from  Amherstburg,  to  the  north. 
It  is  seated  nearly  opposite  the  large  American  town 
of  Detroit,  the  principal  town  in  the  state  of  Mi- 
chigan ; and  the  trade  between  these  towns  is  very 
considerable.  The  population  is  not  much  less  than 
Amherstburg.  Chatham  is  on  the  Thames,  fifteen 
miles  from  its  mouth*  where  a large  stream  runs  into 
it.  The  situation  is  extremely  good,  and  the  river 
is  navigable  for  vessels  of  considerable  burden  up  to 
it.  The  corporation  inspectors  do  not  appear  to 
have  reported  on  the  townships  of  this  district  indi- 
vidually, as  in  most  others.  The  surveyor-general 


WESTERN  DISTRICT. 


101 


speaks  of  it  thus  : ‘ The  river  Thames  winds  through 
a fine  fiat  country,  extremely  fertile  and  rich ; its 
sides  present  a great  number  of  fine  plains  and  ex- 
cellent meadows : the  soil  is  principally  a light 
sandy  earth,  mixed  with  marl  and  a reddish  clay.’ 
There  is,  however,  much  land  in  the  townships  of 
Harwich,  Maidstone,  Romney,  Rochester,  Raleigh, 
and  Tilbury,  that  at  present  are  very  wet  and  marshy, 
but  within  the  power  of  being  drained,  and  made 
good  lands  *.  Hemp  and  tobacco  have  both  been 
cultivated  with  success  here  ; the  latter  to  a consi- 
derable extent,  and  the  quality  is  very  good.  The 
natural  meadows  on  the  Thames  present  an  oppor- 
tunity for  the  raising  of  sheep  advantageously  ; and 
the  climate  is  said  to  agree  particularly  with  them. 
A road  runs  round  the  frontier,  but  as  the  water 
communication  is  so  good,  roads  are  not  so  much 
required  as  in  some  parts.  It  is  divided  into  the 
counties  of  Kent  and  Essex.  The  population  in 
1831  was  returned  at  9288,  and  the  assessable  pro- 
perty at  124,577.  Essex  sends  two  members,  and 
Kent  one  to  the  Parliament. 


Baldon.  22. 
Bosanquet.  1 
Camden.  7. 
Chatham.  4. 


Colchester.  19, 
Dawn.  5. 
Gosfield.  20. 
Harwich.  15. 


* Point  Pele,  in  front  of  Mersey  (10),  is  a marshy  lake,  sur- 
rounded with  a narrow  strip  of  high  land. 


102 


WESTERN  DISTRICT. 


Howard.  16. 
Maidstone.  10. 
Maldon,  18. 
Mersey.  21. 
Orford.  17. 
Raleigh.  14. 
Rochester.  1 1 . 


Romney.  12. 

St.  Clair.  2. 
Sandwich.  9. 
Sombra.  3. 

Tilbury  (east).  13. 
Tilbury  (west).  8. 
Zone.  6. 


APPENDIX. 


APPENDIX. 


No.  I. 

OFFICE  OF  HIS  MAJESTY’S  RESIDENT  AGENT  FOR 
THE  SUPERINTENDENCE  OF  SETTLERS  AND  EMI- 
GRANTS IN  THE  CANADAS. 

Quebec , 1st  August,  1831. 

Notice  is  hereby  given  to  settlers  and  emigrants  arriv- 
ing from  the  United  Kingdom,  and  wishing  to  locate  on 
lands  belonging  to  the  crown  in  Upper  and  Lower 
Canada,  that  there  are  many  situations  in  either  pro- 
vince whereon  they  may  settle  to  great  advantage,  and 
which  will  be  granted  on  very  easy  terms  to  industrious 
settlers  for  actual  settlement. 

IN  LOWER  CANADA. 

His  Excellency  the  Governor-in-Chief  has  been 
pleased  to  order  the  crown  lands  in  the  townships  of 
Inverness  and  Leeds,  near  Craig’s  Road,  to  be  reserved 
for  industrious  settlers  arriving  from  the  United  King- 
dom. These  lands  are  distant  from  Quebec  thirty-six  or 
forty  miles,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence, 
with  good  roads  ail  the  way,  and  a new  road  to  the 
centre  of  Inverness  is  being  made,  which  affords  em- 
ployment to  settlers : the  climate  is  exceedingly  healthy, 
soil  of  the  first  quality,  abounding  in  numerous  navigable 
lakes  and  rivers.  Many  Scotch,  English,  and  Irish 


106 


APPENDIX. 


families  located  in  this  part  of  the  country  last  summer, 
and  are  exceedingtv  pleased  with  their  situation. 

The  price  fixed  for  these  crown  lands  to  actual  settlers 
is  4s.  per  acre,  Halifax  currency ; and  families  whose 
means  are  limited  will  get  100  acres  on  a quit-rent  of 
20 s.  a year,  until  they  are  enabled  to  redeem  the  pur- 
chase at  4$.  per  acre.  Crown  lands  vacant  in  other 
townships  may  be  had  on  payment  of  a small  quit  rent. 

UPPER  CANADA. 

His  Excellency  the  Lieutenant  Governor  has  been 
pleased  to  order  to  be  reserved  the  township  of  Ops,  in 
the  district  of  Newcastle,  Upper  Canada,  for  the  recep- 
tion of  industrious  emigrants  from  the  United  Kingdom, 
and  who  may  be  disposed  to  settle  in  that  province. 
There  are  other  situations  where  emigrants  may  get 
locations ; but  to  those  who  have  no  fixed  place  in  view, 
the  township  of  Ops  will  be  found,  in  everyway,  a most 
desirable  situation. 

These  lands  are  situate  about  thirty  miles  from  Lake 
Ontario,  on  the  north  side,  and  adjoining  the  prosperous 
township  of  Cavan,  and  near  the  Rice  Lakes.  The  price 
fixed  for  those  crown  lands  to  actual  settlers  is  4s.  per 
acre,  Halifax  currency,  payable  in  five  years,  with  in- 
terest, from  the  time  of  taking  possession,  and  one  year’s 
interest  in  advance. 

Persons  disposed  to  locate  in  either  of  the  above  Pro- 
vinces (if  approved  of)  will  be  provided  with  a ticket 
from  the  office  of  his  Majesty’s  resident  agent  for  the 
superintendence  of  settlers  in  the  Canadas,  at  Quebec, 
to  the  location  agent  in  the  respective  townships,  which 
will  entitle  the  settler  to  such  lot  as  he  may  choose,  and 
vacant  at  the  time;  and  on  the  back  of  such  ticket 


APPENDIX. 


107 


directions  will  be  found  for  his  guidance  in  proceeding 
to  his  destination. 

Any  further  information  may  be  obtained  (gratis)  on 
applying  at  the  Resident  Agent's  office,  in  the  Lower 
Town  (Sault  au  Matelot-street,  entrance  in  St.  Peter- 
street,  nearly  opposite  the  Bank  of  Montreal),  daily, 
from  ten  till  two  o’clock ; and  emigrants  not  possessed 
of  immediate  means  to  go  upon  lands,  and  who  are  in 
want  of  employment,  will  obtain  information  at  the  above 
office  for  their  guidance,  with  the  probable  demand  for 
labour  and  artisans,  rates  of  wages,  & c.  at  the  various 
works  now  in  progress  in  the  Canadas*. 

A.  C.  Buchanan, 

Resident  Agent  for  the  Superintendence  of  Settlers 
and  Emigrants  in  the  Canadas. 


* As  emigrants  on  arriving  at  Quebec  are  exposed  to  nume- 
rous temptations,  they  would  materially  advance  their  own  in- 
terest if  they  will  exercise  a little  prudence,  and  not  suffer  them- 
selves to  be  hurried  away  by  every  representation  that  may  be 
presented  to  their  notice. 

The  heads  of  families  ought  to  repair,  as  soon  as  possible 
after  arrival,  to  the  office  of  his  Majesty’s  resident  agent  for 
the  superintendence  of  settlers,  whose  especial  duty  it  is  to  give 
all  the  information  in  his  power  (gratis)  to  industrious  emi- 
grants, who  may  wish  to  settle  in  Upper  or  Lower  Canada. 

Labourers  are  wanted  in  all  the  eastern  townships,  and  brick- 
layers and  stone-masons  are  wanted  at  the  King’s  Works,  on 
Cape  Diamond. 


108 


APPENDIX. 


No.  II. 

CLIMATE,  SOIL,  AND  PRODUCTIONS  OF  UPPER 
CANADA. 

From  an  Official  Report  of  an  Agent  of  his  Majesty’s  Govern- 
ment, laid  before  a Select  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons , 
in  1823,  by  his  Majesty’s  Under  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colo- 
nial Department . 

The  climate  of  Upper  Canada  is  considerably  milder 
than  that  of  the  Lower  Province,  and  the  winter  shorter 
in  the  same  proportion.  In  both  these  respects  it  im- 
proves as  you  proceed  to  the  westward  ; so  much  so, 
that  although  the  frost  generally  sets  in  in  November, 
at  its  eastern  extremity,  and  continues  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood till  the  middle  of  April,  it  rarely  commences 
on  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie  before  Christmas,  and  it 
usually  disappears  between  the  25th  of  March  and  the 
1st  of  April. 

On  a comparison  with  the  climate  of  Great  Britain, 
the  heat  in  the  summer  months  is  somewhat  greater, 
but  never  oppressive,  as  it  is  always  accompanied  with 
light  breezes.  There  is  less  rain  than  in  England,  but  it 
falls  at  more  regular  periods,  generally  in  the  spring  and 
autumn.  The  winter  cold,  though  it  exceeds  that  of  the 
British  isles,  is  the  less  sensibly  felt,  in  consequence  of 
its  dryness,  and  seldom  continues  intense  for  more  than 
three  days  together,  owing  to  the  regular  fluctuation  of 
the  wind  between  the  north-west  and  south-west  points. 
It  may  be  observed,  that  the  winter  season  is  the  most 
favourable  to  land-carriage,  as  the  roads  then  admit  of 
sledging  in  all  directions,  which  is  a very  expeditious 
mode  of  conveyance,  and  attended  with  but  little  draft ; 
so  that  one  horse  or  ox  can,  in  this  manner,  easily  draw 
double  what  he  can  upon  wheels.  It  is  hardly  necessary 


APPENDIX. 


109 


to  state,  that,  in  a country  so  overspread  with  timber, 
there  can  never  be  a deficiency  of  fuel.  As  the  forests 
disappear,  the  climate  improves. 

Soil. — Upper  Canada  is  blessed  with  as  productive  a 
soil  as  any  in  the  world,  and  it  is  easily  brought  into 
cultivation.  The  nature  of  the  soil  may  be  invariably 
discovered  by  the  description  of  timber  it  bears.  Thus, 
on  what  is  called  hard-timbered  land,  where  the  maple, 
beech,  black  birch,  ash,  cherry,  lime,  elm,  oak,  black 
walnut,  butter-nut,  hickory,  plane,  and  tulip  tree,  &c., 
are  found,  the  soil  consists  of  a deep  black  loam.  Where 
the  fir  and  hemlock  pine  are  intermixed  in  any  consider- 
able proportion  with  other  trees,  clay  predominates ; 
but  where  they  grow  alone,  which  is  generally  on  ele- 
vated situations,  sand  prevails.  This  also  happens 
where  the  oak  and  chestnut  are  the  only  trees.  These 
sandy  soils,  though  naturally  unfavourable  to  meadow 
and  pasture,  are  found  to  produce  the  brightest  and 
heaviest  wheats,  and  can,  with  the  assistance  of  gypsum, 
which  abounds  in  many  parts  of  the  province,  be  made  to 
bear  the  finest  possible  crops  of  clover  and  Indian  com. 
In  moist  seasons  the  clay  furnish  the  greatest  burden  of 
grass.  Perhaps  there  does  not  exist,  in  any  quarter  of 
the  globe,  a country  of  the  extent  of  Upper  Canada, 
containing  so  small  a quantity  of  w7aste  land,  either  of 
marsh  or  mountain,  yet  there  is  not  any  deficiency  of 
water;  for,  independently  of  the  numerous  rivers  and 
streams  which  flow7  through  the  country  on  every  side, 
good  springs  are  universally  found  either  on  the  surface 
or  by  digging  for  them. 

Natural  Productions. — The  timber  most  esteemed  in 
Upper  Canada  for  building  and  farming  purposes  is  the 


110 


APPENDIX. 


white  oak  (very  similar  to  the  English),  and  the  yellow 
pine,  a sort  of  deal  which  cuts  up  into  excellent  boards, 
as  does  also  the  tulip-tree,  which  there  grows  to  an  im- 
mense size.  This  latter  timber  is  by  many  considered 
the  best  for  weather  boarding,  from  its  superior  facility 
in  taking  paint,  and  being  of  the  poplar  tribe,  it  is  less 
liable  than  most  other  woods  to  accidents  from  fire,  as 
it  never  blazes ; the  oak  and  hickory  are  principally  used 
for  ploughs,  cart-wheels,  &c. 

The  black  walnut,  cherry,  and  curled  maple,  work  up 
into  durable  and  beautiful  furniture  of  all  sorts.  From 
the  maple,  the  settlers,  by  a very  simple  and  easy  pro- 
cess of  tapping,  obtain  in  a few  days  a sufficient  quan- 
tity of  sugar  to  supply  their  families  for  a year ; many, 
indeed,  manufacture  a considerable  surplus  for  sale. 
Soap  may  be  made  in  any  quantities  from  the  wood- 
ashes,  with  the  addition  of  a certain  proportion  of  tallow 
or,  grease  of  any  kind.  Plums,  cherries,  crab -apples 
(which  latter  yield  an  excellent  preserve),  gooseberries, 
currants,  strawberries,  raspberries,  grapes,  cranberries, 
walnuts,  chestnuts,  and  filberts,  grow  wild  in  the  woods, 
where  game  is  sufficiently  abundant ; consisting  of  red- 
deer,  hares,  pheasants,  woodcocks,  snipes,  and  quails, 
with  many  other  birds,  good  for  the  table ; in  which 
enumeration  should  not  be  omitted  the  wild  pigeon, 
which,  at  certain  periods  of  the  year,  migrate  from  the 
westward  in  flocks  of  such  magnitude  as  surpasses  all 
description,  and  are  excellent  eating. 

Grain , tyc. — The  grain  grown  in  Upper  Canada  con- 
sists of  spring  and  winter  wheat,  oats,  barley,  rye,  buck- 
wheat, and  Indian  corn,  the  last  of  which  is  a most  im- 
portant article  of  consumption.  Peas  are  the  only  field 
pulse  cultivated  there ; the  summer  heats  being  consi- 


APPENDIX. 


Ill 


derably  too  great  for  beans.  There  are  potatoes,  tur- 
nips, pumpkins,  clover  (red  and  white),  and  timothy  grass. 
Both  flax  and  hemp  grow  remarkably  well. 

Fruit  and  Vegetables. — All  the  fruits  and  herbs,  com- 
mon to  the  English  kitchen-garden,  thrive  well  in  this 
province ; and  several  of  the  former,  which  cannot  in 
all  seasons  be  had  in  perfection,  in  England,  without 
orcing,  succeed  there  in  the  open  air  ; melons,  in  parti- 
cular, which  are  excellent.  There  is  also  a great  variety 
of  apples,  pears,  plums,  &c„  of  the  finest  quality  which 
are  known  to  European  orchards.  The  stone-fruit  is 
also  raised  on  standards. 

Agriculture. — Course  of  crops : the  soil  being  of  such 
a nature  as  not  to  need  manure,  the  same  attention  is 
not  there  paid  to  the  regular  succession  of  crops  as  in 
Great  Britain.  i\fter  wheat,  which  is  generally  harvested 
in  the  month  of  July  and  beginning  of  August,  rye  can 
be  sown  on  the  same  ground  in  the  autumn  to  advan- 
tage ; the  rye  crop  is  frequently  laid  down  with  clover 
or  grass  seed,  which,  unless  the  farmer  is  pressed  for 
ground,  will  continue  to  furnish  good  meadow  and  pas- 
ture for  four  or  five  years,  otherwise  it  is  ploughed  up 
before  winter,  and  in  the  spring  put  into  pease,  spring 
wheat,  Indian  corn,  barley,  oats,  or  buck-wheat,  all  of 
which  answer  very  well ; the  two  first  rather  benefiting 
than  impoverishing  the  land.  The  leaves  and  tops  of 
the  Indian  corn  are  likewise  excellent  winter  food  for 
cattle,  particularly  milch-cows.  After  any  of  these  latter 
crops,  wheat  may  be  sown  again  ; potatoes  and  turnips 
succeed  well  upon  newly  cleared  land,  as  a first  crop; 
potatoes  being  put  into  the  ground  with  a hand-hoe, 
from  the  beginning  of  May  till  the  middle  of  June;  tur- 


* #* 

'112  APPENDIX* 

nips  |re  sown  about  the  first  week  in  August,  after  the 
eatest  heat  has  subsided,  and  at  which  time  the  fly 
has  disappeared,  simply  requiring  the  harrow.  It  is  to 
be  understood  that  the  new  land  is  never  ploughed  for 
the  first  crop.  Timothy  is  the  grass  most  cultivated,  as 
it  affords  a large  burden  of  the  best  hay,  besides  good 
after-grass;  however,  it  is  best  mixed  with  clover,  to 
which  it  serves  as  a support,  and  prevents  matting. 

To  this  may  be  added  the  following  general  rules,  ex- 
tracted from  ‘ Stuart’s  Emigrant’s  Guide,’  published  in 
1820.  “The  oak  and  chestnut  generally  grow  ~on  dry 
ground  ; the  latter  more  especially  on  ridges.  The  black 
oak  and  chestnut  grow  on  a sandy  and  poor  soil,  as  do 
the  various  species  of  pine,  including  the  hemlock. 
White  and  red  oak,  blended  with  other  woods,  bespeak  a 
strong  and  lasting  soil.  Beech  and  white  oak  lands  seem 
most  favourable  for  wheat.  The  maples  and  black  wal- 
nut— particularly  the  latter,  where  it  grows  in  large 
clusters — point  out  the  richest  soils  ; generally  low  and 
somewhat  damp,  in  a state  of  nature,  but  only  requiring 
clearance  to  become  abundantly  dry.  Amongst  the  un- 
derwood, the  prickly  ash  and  spice  wood  promise  the 
best.” 


No.  III. 

Colonial  Office , 9 th  Feb . 1 832. 

Passages  to  Quebec  or  New  Brunswick  may  either 
be  engaged  inclusive  of  provisions,  or  exclusive  of  provi- 
sions ; in  which  case  the  shipowner  finds  nothing  but 
water,  fuel,  and  bed-places,  without  bedding.  Children 
under  fourteen  years  of  age  are  charged  one-half,  and 
under  seven  years  of  age  one-third  of  the  full  price ; and 
for  children  under  twelve  months  of  age  no  charge  is 


APPENDIX. 


113 


made.  Upon  these  conditions  the  price  of  passaj&from 
London,  or  from  places  on  the  east  coast  of  Great  Bri- 
tain, has  generally  been  6 1.  with  provisions,  or  31.  with- 
out. From  Liverpool,  Greenock,  and  the  principal  ports 
of  Ireland,  as  the  chances  of  delay  are  fewer,  the  charge 
is  somewhat  lower;  this  year  it  will  probably  be  from 
2 1.  to  2 1.  105.  without  provisions,  or  from  4 1.  to  5l.  in- 
cluding provisions.  It  is  possible,  that,  in  March  and 
April,  passages  may  be  obtained  from  Dublin  for  355.  or 
even  305. ; but  the  prices  always  grow  higher  as  the 
season  advances.  In  ships  sailing  from  Scotland  or 
Ireland,  it  has  mostly  been  the  custom  for  passengers  to 
find  their  own  provisions ; but  this  practice  has  not 
been  so  general  in  London,  and  some  ship-owners,  sen- 
sible of  the  dangerous  mistakes  which  may  be  made  in 
this  matter  through  ignorance,  are  very  averse  to  receive 
passengers  who  will  not  agree  to  be  victualled  by  the 
ship.  Those  who  do  resolve  to  supply  their  own  provi- 
sions should  at  least  be  careful  not  to  lay  in  an  insuffi- 
cient stock  ; fifty  days  is  the  shortest  period  for  which 
it  is  safe  to  provide ; and  from  London  the  passage  is 
sometimes  prolonged  to  seventy-five  days. 

The  best  months  for  leaving  England  are  certainly 
March  and  April ; the  later  emigrants  do  not  find  em- 
ployment so  abundant,  and  have  less  time  in  the  colony 
before  the  commencement  of  winter.  The  names  of 
vessels  proceeding  to  the  North  American  colonies,  and 
the  addresses  of  their  brokers,  may  be  learnt  at  all  ports 
of  the  United  Kingdom,  including  the  port  of  London, 
by  personal  application  at  the  Custom  House  of  each 
port.  The  officers  of  Customs,  however,  will  not  be 
able  to  answer  written  inquiries  on  the  subject ; and 
persons  residing  inland,  who  may  require  information  of 
this  nature,  must  depute  the  inquiry  to  some  one  at  the 

G 


114 


APPENDIX. 


port  where  they  wish  to  embark.  Many  ships  are  ad- 
vertised in  the  public  newspapers. 

Various  frauds  are  attempted  upon  emigrants  which 
can  only  be  effectually  defeated  by  the  good  sense  of  the 
parties  against  which  they  are  contrived,  Sometimes 
agents  take  payment  from  the  emigrant  for  his  passage, 
and  then  recommend  him  to  some  tavern,  where  he  is 
detained  from  day  to  day,  under  false  pretences  for  delay, 
until,  before  the  departure  of  the  ship,  the  whole  of  his 
money  is  extracted  from  him.  This  of  course  cannot 
happen  with  agents  connected  with  respectable  houses  ; 
but  the  best  security  is  to  name  in  the  bargain  for  pas- 
sage a particular  day,  after  which,  whether  or  not  the 
ship  sails,  the  passenger  is  to  be  received  on  board,  and 
victualled  by  the  owners.  In  this  manner  the  emigrant 
cannot  be  intentionally  brought  to  the  place  of  embarka- 
tion too  soon,  and  be  compelled  to  spend  his  money  at 
public-houses,  by  false  accounts  of  the  time  of  sailing  ; 
for,  from  the  very  day  of  his  arrival  at  the  port,  being 
the  day  previously  agreed  upon,  the  ship  becomes  his 
home. 

The  conveyance  of  passengers  to  the  British  posses- 
sions in  North  America  is  regulated  by  an  Act  of  Par- 
liament (9  Geo.  IV.  c.  21),  of  which  the  following  are 
the  principal  provisions  : ships  are  not  allowed  to  carry 
passengers  to  these  colonies  unless  they  be  of  the  height 
of  five  feet  and  a half  between  decks,  and  they  must  not 
carry  more  than  three  passengers  for  every  four  tons  of 
the  registered  burden.  There  must  be  on  board  at  least 
fifty  gallons  of  pure  water,  and  fifty  pounds  of  bread, 
biscuit,  oatmeal,  or  bread  stuff,  for  each  passenger. 
When  the  ship  carries  the  full  number  of  passengers 
allowed  by  lawr,  no  part  of  the  cargo,  and  no  stores  or 
provisions,  may  be  carried  between  decks  ; but  if  there 


APPENDIX. 


115 


be  less  than  the  complete  number  of  passengers,  goods 
may  be  stowed  between  decks  in  a proportion  not  ex- 
ceeding three  cubical  feet  for  each  passenger  wanting  of 
the  highest  number.  Masters  of  vessels  who  land  pas- 
sengers, unless  with  their  own  consent,  at  a place  differ- 
ent from  that  originally  agreed  upon,  are  subject  to  a 
penalty  of  20^.,  recoverable  by  summary  process  before 
two  justices  of  the  peace  in  any  of  the  North  American 
colonies. 

The  enforcement  of  this  law  rests  chiefly  with  the 
officers  of  his  Majesty’s  Customs;  and  persons  having 
complaints  to  make  of  its  infraction  should  address 
themselves  to  the  nearest  Custom-house. 

Besides  the  sea  voyage  from  England,  persons  pro- 
ceeding to  Canada  should  be  provided  with  the  means 
of  paying  for  the  journey  which  they  may  have  to  make 
ftear  their  arrival  at  Quebec.  The  cost  of  this  journey 
must,  of  course,  depend  upon  the  situation  of  the  place 
where  the  individual  may  find  employment,  or  where  he 
may  have  previously  formed  a wish  to  settle  ; but  to  all 
it  will  probably  be  useful  to  possess  the  following  report 
of  the  prices  of  conveyance,  during  the  last  season,  on 
the  route  from  Quebec  to  York,  the  capital  of  Upper 
Canada.  From  Quebec  to  Montreal  (180  miles),  by 
steam-boat,  the  charge  for  an  adult  was  6$.  6 d. ; from 
Montreal  to  Prescot  (120  miles),  by  boats  or  barges,  7 s.; 
from  Prescot  to  York  (250  miles),  by  steam-boat,  7s. 
The  journey,  performed  in  this  manner,  usually  occupies 
ten  or  twelve  days  ; adding,  therefore,  11  s.  for  provisions 
the  total  cost  from  Quebec  to  York  (a  distance  of  550 
miles)  may  be  stated,  according  to  the  charges  of  last 
year,  at  1 l.  11  s.  6d.  Persons  who  are  possessed  of  suffi- 
cient means  prefer  to  travel  by  land  that  part  of  the 
route  where  the  river  St.  Lawrence  is  not  navigable  by 
G 2 


116 


APPENDIX. 


steam-boats,  and  the  journey  is  then  usually  performed 
in  six  days,  at  a cost  of  6/.  It  must  be  observed,  that 
the  prices  of  conveyance  are  necessarily  fluctuating,  and 
that  the  foregoing  account  is  only  presented  as  suffi- 
ciently accurate  for  purposes  of  information  in  this 
country ; leaving  it  to  the  Government  agent  at  Quebec 
to  supply  emigrants  with  more  exact  particulars,  accord- 
ing to  the  circumstances  of  the  time  at  which  they  may 
arrive. 


London  : Punted  by  W.  Clowes,  Stamford-street. 


& ♦